Lund 14' Conversion

[cotton]

I have been reading the forums for awhile but recently became a member to post and get some and ideas. I have a 14’ Lund. I am going to put a front deck on and I am not for sure what I want to do with the back yet. I don’t really want a deck but I do want to something there to keep children from messing with the cables, motor, and battery. This thing actually had small trees growing in it before I cleaned it out should have had taken a pic of that before I cleaned it out but got some of the mess on picture.
Basically from reading the forums I am going to use the pink Styrofoam in between ribs for floor. The main floor is just going to be ¼ inch plywood with fiber resin on all sides. I have aluminum angle got it at scrap yard for 6 bucks per 8 foot; I am scared though because the angle is a ¼ thick. Hope that will work out and not be an extra hassle.
I will use majic farm implement and hardener paint from rural King. Question as far as bucking rivets, after I buck just for extra, waterproofing, I was thinking of dabbing something like JB weld around them. If I do that would I strip to aluminum then put that stuff on rivets then etching primer then paint or how would I do that.
I am also having a bit of trouble finding solid rivets with brazier head at a length of past 1-1/4 anyone know a place?
Tore out the transom it was completely rotted I will just get some plywood treat it with kill-z then fiber resin over that to make the transom. Which brings me to a question should I drill holes pre resin or post?

 

[Recon]

I drilled and mounted the new transom wood then glassed the wood after I bolted it in with stainless hardware. It is really sealed in now and I don't want to everr have to remove it cause it will be a heck of a job! I also coated each stainless bolt with 5200 so that it would seal as it went in and seal the head end on the outside of the transom.

 

[cotton]

I found the the rivets needed at JC SALES and Rivets online.

As far as what you had said about glassing after putting. I didnt think of that. I will glass pre hole then drill set it with rivets then glass again. I like that idea thanks.

after calculating it i needed 1-3/4 inch solid brazier head rivets got a box of them and some aluminum washers. Hope I did my math correct

 

[russ010]

I'm not sure if 1/4" plywood is going to have enough thickness for the floor... even with styrofoam underneath, I think it's going to be a little more flexible than what you want. I would use atleast 1/2" and be done with it for sure.

as far as the transom, I would predrill first so that a little glass gets in all the holes. Then use 5200 around the bolts when you attach it to the transom to give even more of a seal.

 

[cotton]

I was thinking of glassing the 1/4 flooring. I was hoping that could make a differance. I really want aluminum but it seems that scrap yards are getting picked pretty good

 

[russ010]

ya know, I have no idea what glassing will do to it - it may indeed make it stronger.

You might check a site where they build wooden sailboats and ask their opinon or just look around at their refurbs to see what wood they used.... of course, most of it is teak or some off the wall wood, but you could probably find out about the size

 

[cotton]

Sorry about posts dont think this thread got to many views anyway, but I will give an update. I have been busy with helping my family out with much stuff so now I can hopefully get back to boat. Ill be Posting picks too here soon.

I went ahead stopped movement on the boat completely till the trailer gets redone.

I completely took it apart, Cleaned it. Called rustoleum and there was no wait on the phone talked with them about my trailer and boat. He said as far as the Primer to the trailer:

"If the metal is completely rusty then use Rusty Metal Primer 7769, if there is light rust or bare metal or a mixture of that and good paint layer then use clean metal primer 7780"

He said "as far as Aluminum they have a few different ones one being the etch primer and the other being a latex", but he was saying for the boat try the marine paints they make, since its a jon all outside would anti fouling the inside would get the topside primer and paints.

I take his advice on the trailer paint, but the boat I am gonna etch prime then use majic camo paint for the entire boat t keep it cheap, 12 bucks a qt. figure it shouldnt take more than two qts for the 14' jon. Anyway, My solid aluminum Brazier head rivets arrived finally with their respective washers.

 

[cotton]

So now, ill finish the paint on the trailer and put it back together, which i went with the clean metal primer as there was rust but only in spots and not completly rusty, once this is done I will sand done holes, in other words clean so I can put rivets back in them. I will also take to small pieces of aluminum and rivet them to hull to fill in hole on back left, to further water proof that I will jb weld them post rivet around the edges. I will then strip all paint off the boat and prime and paint inside and out with one layer of topcoat. then will install front deck(have no clue of the exact representation for it yet), then lay the flooring which is 1/4 inch plywood fiberglassed then install transom, which is one inch wood fiberglassed,( This is spot I will research more not for sure what wood I should through in here since it will be fiberglassed dont think it will matter). During these installs too I will be putting in wiring for bilge pump, front and rear lighting, trolling motor, and fuse panel (which I will definately have to research as I want something cheap homemade not store bought so I have no clue how to do it yet).

My time frame is I hoep to get it done by the 20th. I have not a name yet, probably wont until is complete and let the women in my life christen it (I have a wife and three little girls, man I am outnumbered, but I cant think God enough for how he has blessed them and me with them. I can honestly say if I didnt have them I would probably have been killed in Iraq or some other war).