Paint question

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Well-known member
Sep 19, 2020
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Smithville, Texas
Hello everyone, I’m replacing the floor in my 1983 16/52 Monark. The previous owner had put treated plywood and covered it with metal with a none slip decking. I pulled the floor to clean and found it. There is pitting and some rust. So I’m striping it down to bare metal to repaint. I’ve purchased Rust-Oleum professional primer for aluminum. Bare aluminum, painted, or sound rusted surface Is what the can reads. I’m wondering if I should use the self etching instead? This says nothing about being self etching. For prep it says to sand any glossy spots. Does anyone have any experience with this particular aluminum primer?
I also want to use something on the rivets for a sealer. Caulk or an epoxy maybe. Should I do this before or after I paint?
Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.
From what I gathered from "Tinboats" ...... to apply G FLEX at the rivets, and apply heat for the G FLEX to seep into the rivet. But before that - do a wet test (fill boat with water) to cover the rivets. Go underneath the boat and see if any rivets are leaking. Mark those spots. Then when all is dry .... buck those rivets - Next clean those rivets with spic and span, then wipe down with a 50/50 vwhite vinegar ........ then do the G FLEX.
You can enter G FLEX in the search box, to gain more information related to sealing rivets.

I am in the process of doing the same.
Thanks for replying and the information. The boat has not leaked but I was worried after removing the layers from the floor. I figured it would be a good idea to seal those rivets specially how old it is.
I used that primer when I painted the aluminum wheels on my van last summer. I didn't use a self-etching primer, but I did wipe down the wheels with 5% vinegar. So far, the paint is adhering well.
I have used it many times for many years, and it works well, if the surface is nice and clean.

I typically use a mix of 50% Purple Power, 25% bleach and 25% water applied with a spray bottle or garden sprayer. Then I agitate it with a brush on a stick, let it work for awhile and then powerwash everything clean.

Once it dries, the aluminum primer grips well, and the paint on top always looks good. I can't remember it ever having an issue, so I almost always use it. I probably have 5 cans in my shop right now.

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