Project turned into a rebuild.

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Douglasdzaster

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 19, 2020
Messages
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Location
Smithville,Texas
LOCATION
Smithville, Texas
I figured I better start a new thread sin this is going to end up being a rebuild.
About 18 months ago I bought a 1983 16/52 Monark with a 40 hp Yamaha.
First thing I had to do was go through the motor and completely redo the fuel system since it didn’t have a single fuel filter. The hose was bad , clamps rusted and the carburetors had to be completely rebuilt. They where eat up with corrosion. I went ahead and replaced everything but the housings which I spent hours cleaning up. I used the boat for a while until I decided to look under the floor and see if it needed cleaning underneath. Evidently it had never been done and the boat must have seen saltwater. That explained a lot of what I had to do to the motor.
From looking at the top of the floor it was fine. I found a sheet of 3/4” plywood that looked treated and old. The rest of the floor was made up of log metal signs that where holding moister between them so it stayed damp under there. The aluminum was pitting from all this.
So I spent many hours getting it down to bare aluminum and abatement of the corrosion in the pits. Then just applied polish for several months to make sure i didn’t miss anything.
So here we are I’ve repainted and in the middle of a new flooring system that is completely removable anytime I want to inspect underneath. Also replacing all the fasteners on the boat some where corroding the aluminum around them. The work I did was with stainless steel screws and bolts and looks good but they’re going to.
I’m avoiding any new holes if possible and I’m using aluminum rivnuts.
Ill be painted the rest of the boat as well as flipping it and stripping the bottom then applying the toughest , slickest stuff I can find. After the floor comes the front deck.
Meanwhile adding upgrades as I go. I’m want to set up for multiple rod holders. I’m thinking of some T track. With the hardware I can build a 4 rod holder for around $50. I’m going to start by mounting T track along the transom on both sides of the motor and using Drift masters I can take off when not using. That covers trolling. I’m trying to figure out the gunnels where I could put several rods for drift fishing. Problem is the top of the gunnels are round and only one inch.
Anybody have a rig I could see a picture of or anyone have ideas to share On how to get the track along the gunnels?13C0A81B-8439-45B6-ADB3-ED0106965C97.jpeg020EF7C7-9A86-4DE0-B4D5-AEA92B4336BC.jpeg627E5E08-C383-4A2A-8DB2-029E802BB269.jpegB8C2A0EE-3ABA-4D52-B9C4-80E10BD676CC.jpeg5FDA7994-FB3F-4F5A-BC4B-913C43881EC9.jpeg13C0A81B-8439-45B6-ADB3-ED0106965C97.jpeg
 
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Driftmaster makes some pretty robust looking clamp on rod holder bases. They have what they call a "trio" base. Looks like it would mount on the round contour of your gunnel.

View attachment 112966View attachment 112967
Thanks I’ll check out their website. I thought about aluminum angle mounted under the top of the gunnel but I could see someone planting a knee in it.
 
I mentioned Drift master because you mentioned you use them in other places. All my rod holders are Scotty's. They also make a clamp on mount.
I found a site that specializes in bases and holders. They have a large assortment. Just the bases or holders and they had deals on multiple holders with bases. Prices are very reasonable.
Now I can’t find it again. I was going to post it. I’ll keep looking for it. The holders are the same style as Drift masters both 3/8” and 1/2” threads.
 
Took care more corrosion today. Even the cleats had rusted screws. I removed the screws and they were very attracted to a magnet (not stainless steel). I cleaned everything up and reinstalled with aluminum rivnuts. Did the socket for the anchor light as well and took the led spot lights off and disassembled the bracket which had stainless screws with rusted lock washers. Cleaned and repainted the brackets and put aluminum rivnuts in the boat where the bolt holes where. Waiting on washers. Just staying busy while epoxy is curing on the plywood flooring. Should be able to flip it tomorrow and coat the other side.
 
I found a site that specializes in bases and holders. They have a large assortment. Just the bases or holders and they had deals on multiple holders with bases. Prices are very reasonable.
Now I can’t find it again. I was going to post it. I’ll keep looking for it. The holders are the same style as Drift masters both 3/8” and 1/2” threads.
Found it.
https://www.hillsrodholders.com/en/
 
I ordered a new cover a few days ago. No more Academy. I got a Carver that’s made to fit my boat. The material is one step down from SunbrelLa.
Ill finish painting my homemade trolling motor mount today for a 50# thrust tiller that will be on the bow. (Pictures coming).
The epoxy is cured on the plywood and I’ll also start putting together the flooring puzzle I’ve created. Pictures of that are coming as well.
 
WOW! My new cover came today. It took a week exactly.
I opened the box just to check it out and there is night and day difference between in the material compared to the old one. It looks awesome. Very nice! I’m leaving the old cover on for now, until I get the new floor installed. I should be attaching carpet to it tomorrow for the finishing touches.
Like the monkey said that caught his tail in the fan.
It won’t be long now!
 
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Question: I have installed Stainless steel T nuts on the underside of the plywood flooring for attaching mending plates to tie the sections of floor together with stainless steel machine screws. This makes it easy to disassemble and remove the floor for inspection and cleaning. I have marine grade anti seize I’d like to use on the screws. The T nuts are sealed in place with 5200. This still leaves the top of the plywood for the screws to pass through. I can’t use anti seize and silicone together. So how do I do this and still seal the screw holes. The plywood is treated with several coats of penetrating epoxy. Am I just going to have to use a sealer. Silicone or 4200? Or will the marine anti seize help protect the wood any?
Oh the anti seize I have is Loctite LB 8023 marine grade with no metal in it. It’s great for galvanic corrosion and prevents moisture intrusion. It doesn’t cure. After two years I removed a bolt from my motor and it looked like the day I installed it.
 
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If you are worried about water getting in through the T-nut threaded hole, then wouldn’t a compression washer (EMPD) and/or Plumber’s Tape do? Tape would not only plug up where water can get through but also turn T-nut into a locking version.
 
If you are worried about water getting in through the T-nut threaded hole, then wouldn’t a compression washer (EMPD) and/or Plumber’s Tape do? Tape would not only plug up where water can get through but also turn T-nut into a locking version.
T nuts are locking. I installed those a few days ago and hit them with 5200 on the outside to bond and seal with the wood.
I was trying to figure out how to get some of the anti seize on the T nut threads and still seal the screws in the wood above it. I thought about using a small paint brush and doing the T nuts but I would still have to push the screw through whatever I’m sealing it with.
Im just going to skip the anti seize. I have a silicone sealant that’s supposed to be good for decking hardware and removable when I want to.
 
More pictures. I spent several hours from using a Dremel and magnifying glass to get the corrosion out of the pits to what I have now. Keep in mind this is my first tin boat much less rebuild. The pictures of what I started with are at the beginning of the thread. I’m a little concerned because I climbed in the boat to trim the carpet by the front deck and the 15/32 plywood sure was creaking. I treated it with penetrating epoxy. First coat with 50% acetone as instructed. Then an undiluted coat. I put 2” solid closed cell foam board between the ribs and it looked a little taller than the ribs so I used a good weather stripping on the ribs to even things out should help with noise as well. Anyway I only took a couple of steps in that one spot. I need to get in and walk around.
I attached all the male snaps last night with 5200. The mending plates to tie the three pieces together have T nuts under the plywood also with 5200. The screw holes where filled with Star Brite silicone so they are sealed and I can take them apart when I want to remove the floor for cleaning. I put the flooring together on saw horses when I installed the snaps in the carpet before putting it in the boat. The front deck is next.
Right now I’m trying to figure out what to use to trim around the carpet and plywood to give it a finished look. I have a piece of aluminum angle I’m going to cut and place the pieces around the edge of the floor to hold it in (Incase I ever have to use that foam I don’t want it just floating away Lol).
315FAB1A-AC18-4E82-8F65-1A3FB1812EF4.jpegEE58F1E3-BF35-4847-85C6-8583726412A2.jpegB747DDBA-DED2-440E-B822-E8BAE5DFBA67.jpeg36E053E8-A8F8-4097-9B76-442189915051.jpeg7EF4CB10-1E46-418B-B0B8-B83BB260C0A9.jpeg
 
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Now I’m asking for ideas to secure my 6 gallon portable fuel tank that doesn’t fit between the rear bench and transom. Instead I have to put it in front of the rear bench. The motor is pull start but I need to put a deep cycle battery just behind the front deck for my trolling motor. How can I secure these without putting holes in the new floor?
Is there a way to secure the tank to the aluminum bench. Same question for the battery against the front deck. The battery for lights , electronics etc. is a SLA that goes under the bench seat.
 
NEVER drill holes below the water line. Bolt a piece of aluminum plate to a seat frame. Then strap or bolt things to the plate.
Thanks for replying. I’m staying away from anything that leads to the water. I was thinking seat frame some how. An aluminum plate is a good idea. I appreciate it.
 
Thanks for replying. I’m staying away from anything that leads to the water. I was thinking seat frame some how. An aluminum plate is a good idea. I appreciate it.
I already have some aluminum sheets and aluminum angle and an assortment of aluminum rivnuts. What if I attach some angle to the seat then enough sheeting to tie down the fuel tank? I can do the same for the battery box as well.
 
Attach some alum angle to the seat and build out from there. Fuel tank on the left side and battery on the right was how I did my 14' tinnie years back. Plenty of room in between for my feet and the weight balance was mighty close! Also added a top over each same height as the seat itself, great place to mount stuff like sonar, rod holders etc....
 
Attach some alum angle to the seat and build out from there. Fuel tank on the left side and battery on the right was how I did my 14' tinnie years back. Plenty of room in between for my feet and the weight balance was mighty close! Also added a top over each same height as the seat itself, great place to mount stuff like sonar, rod holders etc....
Man thanks for the reply. I bet you don’t have your 14’ anymore so I could see a pic? I think that’s what I’m going to do. I’ll use the rivnuts so it’s removable like the flooring. I have enough plywood and epoxy or paint left I could attach it to the angle. It would be more ridged than the aluminum I have and easier to attach tie downs to. My trolling battery has to go up front so I’ll build out from the casting deck. I’m seriously considering running wire so I can put the battery behind the rear seat. But according to what I’ve searched for a 55 lb trolling motor 8awg should only be ran 10 foot max. And the 6awg is a bit pricey. A few years ago when we moved into a smaller place we had garage sales to thin our stuff out and I practically gave away some heavy welding lead I had. Now I’m kicking myself.
Thanks again for the reply. My gears are really turning now and that can be dangerous. Lol
 

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