Rebar anchor spike?

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I have those same fiberglass rods from the same seller. I ordered 2 and it cut down on shipping considerably.
I like the idea of the double loop connected to the boat cleat to attach the poles. I got a couple of those thick green fiberglass poles at home depot, will give it a shot in the spring for shallow water crabbing
Wyatt said:
I have those same fiberglass rods from the same seller. I ordered 2 and it cut down on shipping considerably.
I was thinking the same thing when I ordered. Just got my email notice from Amazon that my 2 have shipped. :mrgreen: Shipping for 2 was only $9 and change.

fishmonger said:
JMichael said:
juggernot said:
I don't think I'd want to use one on a tinny if any thunderstorms were nearby.
I don't think I'd want to be in a tinny if any thunderstorms were nearby. :lol:

The prices from wouldn't be so bad if they didn't gouge so bad on shipping. Of course maybe it's the cost of shipping long items and it just seems high but I have my doubts.

Shipping oversize items especially long items can be very pricey. For the heck of it I went to the USPS site and calculated shipping an 8' pole in an 8'x4"x4" box from S.C. to Atlanta (not expedited shipping) was $67 dollars with out insurance !

I got 2 x 8' rods (cost + tax + shipping) for $30.87. If I ordered from mgs4u shallow-water-boat-anchors, they want $31.35, no item, no tax, just for the shipping charges. The math tells me that FexEx is gouging them or they're gouging their customers.
Yea same here. It estimated a week and a day for delivery. It showed up 2 days after I placed my order...... Couldn't be happier lol.
I don't care much for rainy days when the waters not needed but it seemed like a good time to build my shallow water anchors. So, I sanded a point on one end,

Used 2 x ½" tees, 2 x ½" couplers, and about 6" of ½" pipe. I split the couplers in half (used half on each end of the tee) to add same diameter length to the tee's, glued this all together and onto the rod to make my handles.

Now I've got 2 x 8' x ¾" anchors for less than $35 an 30 minutes of my time.

I think I'm going to get some small dia stainless rod and pin both handles to the rod just as a precaution and added strength. I'm also going to add eyes to a couple of pieces of nylon rope so I can attach them to cleats.
Wyatt said:
Very nice. I just used a bicycle grip on the end of my poles.

Nice. I considered doing that at one point but besides not being sure if I could get one to fit tight, I thought the T would allow for a better grip when wet and it would keep the eye of the rope from slipping off if there isn't much pole above the waters surface. What ever method you use, it sure beats paying $75+ for 1 anchor. :mrgreen:
Yes it does!! My bicycle grips didn't fit snug enough to my liking (loose by 0.125in diameter). What I did was shove a nickel to the very end of the grip which blocked the air hole at the end. Then I filled it about 1/6th full of 2 part epoxy. I then shoved the rod into the handle while twisting it for maximum coverage then let it dry. None oozed out and that handle refuses to come off!
I made a shallow water pin out of a 10' length of closet dowel from Home Depot. Sanded a point on one end, plasti-dipped about 1' of the other end, and rubbed the wood down with vegetable oil to repel water. With the larger diameter it takes a bit more effort to push it into a hard clay bottom, but even then it works great. Built it in about 30 minutes (plus curing time for the dip), for about $25.

I can remover my TM and the plastic bushing and the dowel slip right through it, or I use a rope on a cleat if using it off the stern.
I've got a stick it and a Wang stick. Both are great but the stick it fiberglass has lost its coating and will aggravate the heck out of you. Duct tape helps. Wang stick has no problems.

The shaft of my mud motor also works pretty good in 3' or less.
Here's my EL Cheapo idea.
Take a threaded plumbing flange and attach it to the rear of the boat.
Screw a 2 inch nipple into that
Screw a "T" onto the nipple
Get a section of thin wall conduit and cut a point on one end and fashion a wood handle on the other
The conduit slides through the "T"
And you have it!
A piece of PVC with the tip sharpened works, and it won't clank against the hull as much as rebar. Unless you have two the biggest problem is you will rotate around the anchor in the breeze or current.

There are youtube videos on it but it's pretty straightforward to make one.


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