Rivet Advice

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Primo

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Ok, so this is my first aluminum boat build. I have a 2009 Tracker Grizzly 1448 and would like to extend the existing front deck by a few feet and continue the seat in the back out to the transom. I have been searching the forum like crazy so don't get mad. My plan is to frame the extended front deck with angle and box aluminum (1/8th inch). The 2009 1448 has a solid floor already. I am planning on using half inch plywood for the deck surface or is that a mistake? I will treat this with spar urethane. My question is about rivets. Where do you guys purchase yours? I need rivets to attach aluminum angle to the existing aluminum structure and rivets to attach the half inch plywood to the eighth inch thick aluminum box. What is the optimum size rivet? I assume half inch plus eighth for the decking but do i need a bit longer? And the eigth to existing boat structure will need to be much shorter. What diameter will work best? I read 3/16th but will that be rough with a manual rivet gun? I ordered the marine carpet from Sportsman's Guide. Another question. What can I use to glue the carpet that will work both on aluminum and plywood or do i need two separate products.

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to get it right the first time.
Thanks ahead of time,

Primo
 
Your pop rivets need to be longer than the two materials they are joining or they can't work. Sorry, I don't know what size to suggest. Either 1/8" or 3/16" will be a forearm workout once you do enough of them. I haven't done this yet myself, but I was planning on joining the plywood to the framing with rivets as well, I will select the rivets with the biggest head I can find to act as a flat washer on the wood.

The glue you buy should probably work on both the aluminum and wood. The can should say what it will adhere to. Keep in mind, if the aluminum is already painted, the glue will only hold as good as the paint is stuck to the aluminum (if the paint comes loose, so does your carpet).

Refer to this thread for places to order different materials.
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=11903
 
I get my all aluminum rivets at Menards.
For the angle aluminum to angle aluminum, box aluminum I'd recommend 1/8" rivets minimum and 3/16" for the plywood to the aluminum.
I used 3/16" rivets 5/8" long to attach 1/2" plywood to 1/8" aluminum.
 
fishjunky said:
...Either 1/8" or 3/16" will be a forearm workout once you do enough of them...

Uhm, no. I used 3/16" stainless rivets with a mild steel mandrel to get a nice tight connection in the second part of my build and yes, they're much more difficult than the aluminum rivet/steel mandrels I used up front, but you can use aluminum and not kill your arms. Just don't buy rivets with aluminum mandrels - they're too weak to get a good grip and your whole project will be creaking and shifting.

I did find after the fact that you can use a circular saw with a blade designed for cutting wood with nails (fine teeth and carbide tip) and it makes dicing up the aluminum angle nice and quick provided you have a full face shield. The face shield is a MUST!!! there is a spray of metal shavings going everywhere when you do this, but it is far faster than a jigsaw or any form of hand tool (hacksaw etc.) I used my welding mask as I didn't have a shield and worked fine.
 
Harbor Freight has a 20.00 rivet gun that will set any rivet in 2 pulls or less, made in China but I can't break it..
 
Thank you guys. My buddy owns a machine shop so the cutting and sizing should go easy enough. Where would I purchase these stainless rivets? I bet they cost a whole bunch more than aluminum.

I appreciate all of your replies. Carpet arrived today and looks to be of great quality (Sportsman's Guide). I have been buying the aluminum for framing by the pound at a local spot so that has not cost a ton. Will half inch for the decking be sufficient? I know some guys use 5/8ths. I am about 220lbs as is my fishing buddy.
Thanks again,

Rob
 
I used 1x1 angle in 1/8 thickness. Cheapest place I've found to get it is www.onlinemetals.com

As for the stainless rivets I ordered mine from www.rivetsonline.com as you can pick both the size and the rivet/mandrel materials (ie - stainless rivets with a mild steel mandrel)
 
For aluminum & rivet supplies check Aircraft Spruce and jay-cee sales & rivet inc. I've used them for years restoring old Airstreams, lot of info and product. For aluminum structure/framing you should consider buck rivets. To attach sheet goods to alum frame with pop [blind] rivets check out Olympic and "bulb-tite" rivets. Another usefull one would be large head pop rivets sometimes called racing rivets, used for quick panel repair on the track. Typically 5/32 shank dia. with a 5/8 dia. head, nice flush mount, never show under carpet.
 
jay-cee sales & rivet inc. is the www.rivetsonline.com that I mentioned...so +2 for them...
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=365405#p365405 said:
bridgeman » 04 Sep 2014, 16:19[/url]"]Harbor Freight has a 20.00 rivet gun that will set any rivet in 2 pulls or less, made in China but I can't break it..
I have a pneumatic rivet gun from harbor freight. It is fantastic and totally worth the money if you have a use for it. I am a auto mechanic and I have had it for years, way better than even a large manual rivet gun. I think it was like $50 or $60.
 
[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=365456#p365456 said:
Pembroke36 » 04 Sep 2014, 23:45[/url]"]
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=365405#p365405 said:
bridgeman » 04 Sep 2014, 16:19[/url]"]Harbor Freight has a 20.00 rivet gun that will set any rivet in 2 pulls or less, made in China but I can't break it..
I have a pneumatic rivet gun from harbor freight. It is fantastic and totally worth the money if you have a use for it. I am a auto mechanic and I have had it for years, way better than even a large manual rivet gun. I think it was like $50 or $60.
yup, I finally bought a pneumatic from Harbor 4yrs ago, + or - 50 bucks. Probably set a thousand rivets so far without a problem. BUT if you use alum rivets with an alum mandrel avoid the cheep ones, they tend to break long.
 

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