rivet removal and replacement...?

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jph84

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Hi all... hope some one can help me out here. i have a few old rivets to replace. i have removed the ones that are no longer solid.

i dont have the option of a rivet gun to put new rivets in.... however if i where to buy one to do it.... what would be the best one to go with ... with in a reasonable price range. and what would be the best rivets to use.


or the other method....

stainless steel pan head with washer each side and nut with 4200 or 5200 then fiberglass patch over each one to give it the 100% water seal?

im not looking to cheep out on it.... i want it to last and be solid but don't want it to cost an arm and a leg! ( i know catch 22)

any thoughts, suggestions?

glad to take on any other ideas also.

many thanks in advance.


JPH.
 
Hello, THe best way to replace a rivet, is with another rivet... Manual Rivet guns can be purchased cheaply at many stores, and rivets are cheap. Youtube some videos on how to replace a rivet to get a basic rundown on how to do it. I've done it many times... some tips that I've learned through experience...

1-once you place the rivet, keep lots of pressure and keep pumping the rivet gun, with consistent pressure
2-be sure to remove the old stem from the gun before inserting another rivet
3-hit the rivet gun with WD-40 every few rivets. helps to pump easier and helps to remove the old stem

I suggest you use rivets as it'll be a cleaner, stronger, permanent solution as opposed to a nut and thread placement. Keep in mind how strong rivets are; commercial airplanes are riveted together.
 
a manual rivet gun shouldnt cost you more than $20. any brand should work for you, as it's light home use, not professional use... packs of 100 rivets are around 5 bucks
 
so if i where to use this you think the rivets im putting in would hold up on the hull?

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-with-40-industrial-strength-poly-rivets-97757.html

with rivets like this...

https://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-aluminum-blind-rivet-set-67619.html

thanks for the info....

I just want to do it once and not go back and re work any of them.

was going to get this....

https://www.harborfreight.com/3x-air-riveting-hammer-with-5-piece-chisel-set-97857.html

and some of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Brazier-Solid-Aluminum-Rivet-Length/dp/B0040D2PSS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3

Im sure this is the type that has been used in the boat right now. not the lighter ones in the link above.

would both work?

just so you know what i'm looking to replace transom rivets as well as through hull rivets,

IMG_0217.jpg
(red out line are the rivets that need replacing. there are also some mid way towards the bow and some up on the bow.


what would be the best to use?

many thanks,
 
I haven't done this yet so some of the experienced rebuilders will need to chime in but after doing some reading, I intend to use 1/4" closed end blind rivets where I go through the side of the boat and this rivet gun. The smaller gun should do for the lighter rivets but for what little strutural pieces I am putting in, welding or 1/4" rivets sound like the best idea. I hope to start a minor modification in a few weeks.

https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy...and-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html
 
Remove w drill (centering) can be prob..Grind (careful with edges) Closed end rivets Alu/Alu are the way to go ..Use smallest you can get away with cause once you get to 1/4" pop rivets pretty well stop going up in size..You can Google up Rivets ...Ebay has lots..The Harbor Freight are not closed end and use steel mandrel... I have the HD rivet gun with bottle from HF (looks like bolt cutter)Been great for me...Here is a site worth a look (there too high for me) But good info https://bullfrogrivet.com/ ..cva34
 
jph84: check out Bigterp's project where he used the HD rivet gun. He really seemed to like, and had great success. I am doing the same but with Solid Alum by ball peening with hammer.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774&start=60#p281542

Good Luck!
 
It's already been stated in both of the above post, but it's worth some emphasis in case you didn't catch it. Any time you're doing through hull rivets below the water line, you need to use either solid rivets or closed end rivets.
 
I agree with JMichael about using solid rivets, especially below the water line.

panFried is right. The air hammer I got from Harbor Freight worked great. I've never worked on a boat before let alone mess with solid rivets. Once I got into doing a few and got the hang of it, they became super easy to work with. The HF hammer plus the solid rivet tool for the gun didn't break the bank either.

Air hammer
https://www.harborfreight.com/super-duty-air-hammer-with-chisels-47868.html

Solid rivet setting tool. I got mine elsewhere for cheaper, but I don't remember exactly were from. Obviously you'd have to match your size and style of rivet to the tool you need.
https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Rivet_Set_p/vts-824.htm
 
guys!!! i cant thank you all enough.... there was some confusion for a while there.....

but i know know what im looking for.

i have just ordered: https://www.harborfreight.com/super-duty ... 47868.html

and https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Riv ... ts-824.htm


Should i also be putting a dab of 5200 on these rivets be for i set them?

and just have to figure out the best option for the rivets.


also: i see that most rivet websites show to hardnesses for there aluminum rivets.

witch would be the better for below the water line? the softer or harder. I'm assuming the harder of the 2 would need more force to set.

cant wait to get it all and get back to work on the hull and and transom.

many thanks again.
 
these look identical to the ones that are in the boat now.... just not sure if i should be the 1/2" or the shorter 3/8"

https://www.amazon.com/Brazier-Solid-Aluminum-Rivets-Length/dp/B0040CZ73O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1360009968&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=braizer3%2F16+solid+rivets

is it better to go with a longer one? ( maybe giving me more or the rivet to set) or the shorter? nothing is any where near as thick as these rivets just want to make sure they hold water tight once there in!!!


cheers.


Joel.
 
jph84 said:
i have just ordered: https://www.harborfreight.com/super-duty ... 47868.html

and https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Riv ... ts-824.htm
Your links aren't working for me, not sure about anyone else.

jph84 said:
these look identical to the ones that are in the boat now.... just not sure if i should be the 1/2" or the shorter 3/8"

https://www.amazon.com/Brazier-Solid-Aluminum-Rivets-Length/dp/B0040CZ73O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1360009968&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=braizer3%2F16+solid+rivets

is it better to go with a longer one? ( maybe giving me more or the rivet to set) or the shorter? nothing is any where near as thick as these rivets just want to make sure they hold water tight once there in!!!


cheers.


Joel.
I'd go with the ½" length because of the thickness of the rib+hull, but are you sure you need a 3/16 dia rivet and not ¼"? I'd double check the diameter of the holes just to be sure.
 
i did a recheck of the old rivet holes on the hull. there 1/4" so i should be getting 1/4" diameter x 1/2" long i can all ways cut some a little bit if needed to for other areas. but they should shrink down with a few good blows.

am i correct to say that i should be putting a dab of the 3m 5200 on to each rivet?

not sure why my links are not working. ( i copy and paste them in like i would any where else)

ill try again.

thank you again for your help with all this. i just want to do it once and have it last.

just hope the work i do holds up!

cheers,

Joel.
 
They don't use anything on the rivets when they build them but they also aren't working with dirty corroded aluminum either. If I were putting some in mine I would probably put just a tiny bit on the under side of the head of the rivet.
 
ok perfect.

i have got the surface are of the rivet holes back to a good clean aluminum. so should have a good contact!

making my list of bits and ready to order tomorrow,

thanks again for the input and advice.

Cheers.


Joel
 
General rule is the rivet should be 1.5X the thickness of the material being riveted. Too long will cause a poor sealing.
 
im going this route..

https://www.rivetsonline.com/solid-aluminum-rivets-1-4-to-3-8.html

im getting the 1/4" x 1/2" brasier head to do the rivets that are below the water line and some a little bit larger to fill some of the old larger holes that i need to fill.

this is my first and current build/mod.

feel free to lend any advice you feel might help....

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=28844


thanks for all the help on this.... soon as i get them i will do some photos and video of how i got on with them!

cheers.
 

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