Rivets - to pop or not to pop?

[barefootnfl]

I have an old sears 1232, loose rivets. I decided to give it a new lease on life and patch it up, seal it, paint it, etc.

I have been told not to use pop rivets.
Is this right?

I figured someone on here should have an opinion.
What are the reasons for not using it, etc.

Appreciate the help.

 

[Syncrowave]

I'm no expert by any means, but I suspect real aluminum rivets (which would be peened over) would be preferable to pop-rivets. I think real rivets are generally thicker where they go through the metal, and the peened-over head holds better than the swaged tube that's left on one side of a pop-rivet.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

If you use rivets get "closed end" rivets.

 

[shaggs]

The problem with aluminum pop rivets is the little piece of metal that breaks of inside the rivet head will cause corrosion
Stainless steel rivets would probably be a better selection or solid aluminum peen rivets

 

[jtrip]

Been lurking here a long time but don't say much. 8) My uncle gave me a 1232 with about half the rivets on the bottom leaking. I drilled them out and replaced them with small stainless nut's and bolt's with a dab of silicone. The bolts are about the same dia. as the rivets and just long enough for the threads to go through the nuts. Stainless nuts and bolts don't cost much if you buy them from a dealer in boxes of 100. Actually I used #2 phillips pan head machine screws.

 

[surfman]

Pop rivets have a hole in the middle of them where the mandrel is pulled through, what do you think will happen if you install a rivet with a hole in the middle of it?

 

[SumDumGuy]

you could try rebucking the rivets.

But I would more than likely end up doing as jtrip.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

surfman » Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:16 pm[/url]"]Pop rivets have a hole in the middle of them where the mandrel is pulled through, what do you think will happen if you install a rivet with a hole in the middle of it?

That's why you use closed end rivets.

 

[tnriverluver]

surfman » Today, 16:16[/url]"]Pop rivets have a hole in the middle of them where the mandrel is pulled through, what do you think will happen if you install a rivet with a hole in the middle of it?

Not these https://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/blind-rivets/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

 

[surfman]

Those would work, but I would try to re-buck them as mentioned above first. If it is just a leaky rivet and not the entire joint, then you have more problems.

 

[barefootnfl]

jtrip » 14 Aug 2013, 06:55[/url]"]Been lurking here a long time but don't say much. 8) My uncle gave me a 1232 with about half the rivets on the bottom leaking. I drilled them out and replaced them with small stainless nut's and bolt's with a dab of silicone. The bolts are about the same dia. as the rivets and just long enough for the threads to go through the nuts. Stainless nuts and bolts don't cost much if you buy them from a dealer in boxes of 100. Actually I used #2 phillips pan head machine screws.

I've thought about bolts also...how long have yours been in?
Any problems w/ them?

Thanks

 

[barefootnfl]

surfman » 15 Aug 2013, 06:19[/url]"]Those would work, but I would try to re-buck them as mentioned above first. If it is just a leaky rivet and not the entire joint, then you have more problems.

This whole "bucking" thing has me confused.
Where does the bucking bar fit into the whole riveting process?
just don't know where or how to use one if I could find it in my area...lol.

 

[Syncrowave]

barefootnfl » 15 Aug 2013, 20:07[/url]"]

surfman » 15 Aug 2013, 06:19[/url]"]Those would work, but I would try to re-buck them as mentioned above first. If it is just a leaky rivet and not the entire joint, then you have more problems.

This whole "bucking" thing has me confused.
Where does the bucking bar fit into the whole riveting process?
just don't know where or how to use one if I could find it in my area...lol.

Basically you put the rivet through the hole, then you put the "bucking bar" (or the head of a sledgehammer, or any heavy piece of steel to act as an "anvil") on the side that the rivet head is on, then you use an air hammer (or a ball-peen hammer) to beat on the other end of the rivet, to expand the shaft of the rivet to fit tightly in the hole and create a mushroom head on it.

 

[barefootnfl]

Syncrowave;

Thanks for explaining this...makes more sense now.

 

[THESX1]

I used rivets all over my boat to frame in decking and storage. I have them both above and below the waterline. On the rivets above the waterline I used nothing but the rivet it self but below I used 5200, I drilled the holes then dabed a drop of 5200 in the whole then put the rivet in and compressed it. I run an all electric boat so I have a ton of wieght in batteries in the boat. Have not had a problem yet i fish 4 maybe 5 days a week.

 

[Jeffrey]

Syncrowave » 16 Aug 2013, 15:39[/url]"]

barefootnfl » 15 Aug 2013, 20:07[/url]"]

surfman » 15 Aug 2013, 06:19[/url]"]Those would work, but I would try to re-buck them as mentioned above first. If it is just a leaky rivet and not the entire joint, then you have more problems.

This whole "bucking" thing has me confused.
Where does the bucking bar fit into the whole riveting process?
just don't know where or how to use one if I could find it in my area...lol.

Basically you put the rivet through the hole, then you put the "bucking bar" (or the head of a sledgehammer, or any heavy piece of steel to act as an "anvil") on the side that the rivet head is on, then you use an air hammer (or a ball-peen hammer) to beat on the other end of the rivet, to expand the shaft of the rivet to fit tightly in the hole and create a mushroom head on it.

Seems like you would need a helper to hold the bucking bar when you get away from the edge. What do you do when you are working alone?