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sams

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I think that I need to replace some of the rivets in my 16' Starcraft Seafarer. Does anyone know what the hull rivets used in this boat are? I can probably figure out what size head they take, however, without an undeformed rivet I am not sure what length or diameter shank I need.

Sam
 
Most hull rivets are 3/16 solid. I would call starcraft. Also-- google a solid rivot supply store and see what type of rivet head style they used on your boat. Alot of times people will use the next larger size rivet if the origional hole gets damaged during repair. the rivot should be coated with some 3m 5200 as an added measure to prevent leaks. --- bill11
 
You can use sealing pop rivets in aluminum. It's as simple as, Drill out the old rivet, put a dab of 5200, insert pop rivet, squeeze and your done.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivets/=dmw1q0 Click on the sealing blind rivets. Aluminum

or

Drill out old rivet and replace with new solid rivet. Usually requires two people.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivets/=dmvzmw
 
I got 3/16 and 1/4 Brazier Rivets (both 3/8 inch long) from Granger then ordered a 3/16 and 1/4 inch air hammer brazier rivet bits for my 83 sea nymph bass attacker. My boat has 3/16 rivets and some of the rivets are a tight fit and some holes are "wallowed" out so I will drill them to the 1/4 size. I replaced one of the 3/16 rivets the other day to test it out and it looks factory except for the fact that the rivet is super shiny new.
 
It looks like pop rivets is the way to go. All of the people I can get to help buck are married with kids as am I. This makes scheduleing someone for an hour or two tough. One man jobs make it easy.

Sam
 
Just be sure to get the closed end blind rivets.

This is where I get mine from.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html
 
I'm going to need some replaced. I need it to look factory since it will be right on the side of the boat. Removing some riveted on trim, and need to put rivets back in the holes.

Anyone in MI have these and willing to help? I'm willing to pay.
 
sams said:
It looks like pop rivets is the way to go. All of the people I can get to help buck are married with kids as am I. This makes scheduleing someone for an hour or two tough. One man jobs make it easy.

Sam

Be forewarned however that pop rivets don't have anywhere near the holding strength of solid rivetsy so if its something structural to the boat I would go solid and wait till you can get help you'll be happier in the end
 
I agree, go with solid rivots. The manufacturer used them for a reason. Thier stronger, they require no sealant and they dont require a $75 rivot gun. They do however require an air hammer and a compressor to run them. I purchased my hammer at Harbor Freight for $12.99 and it came with 9 bits. I turned one of the bits into a rivot setting bit. Took all of 5 minutes to make the bit and takes all of 10 seconds to install a rivot.
 
Aaron Lariscy said:
Be forewarned however that pop rivets don't have anywhere near the holding strength of solid rivetsy so if its something structural to the boat I would go solid and wait till you can get help you'll be happier in the end

Oh yeah!... they're just for decoration eh? I guess thats wht all the internal framing in my Tracker is fastented with blind rivets and some of the external pieces too. :roll:

BassBlaster said:
I agree, go with solid rivots. The manufacturer used them for a reason. Thier stronger, they require no sealant and they dont require a $75 rivot gun. They do however require an air hammer and a compressor to run them. I purchased my hammer at Harbor Freight for $12.99 and it came with 9 bits. I turned one of the bits into a rivot setting bit. Took all of 5 minutes to make the bit and takes all of 10 seconds to install a rivot.

Whats a rivot???

If you'll look at Harbor Freight (yanno, the place where you got your air hammer?) you'll find a heavy duty blind rivet tool that installs the 1/4" dia. blind rivets for $20.

https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-17-1-2-half-inch-hand-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html

If y'all will read up on the closed end blind rivets you will see that they're waterproof without sealant or epoxy, we just do that for a little bit of overkill.
 
Really, your gonna call me out because I mispelled a word online? I bet you have never done that before. Lol, you dont have to get mad at me just because most everyone on this site disagrees with most everything you post.

This site is about helping people. I see that you try and help but your always pushing the same thing. Every post you have posted on this site has been about arsenic laced plywood and rivets that arnt meant for marine use. Is that stuff okay to use? Sure. Is it the best way? I doubt it. Just because I and many others tend to disagree with you dosnt mean you need to get all pissy and start calling me out for a mispelling so you can make yourself look better than me.

For the record, 13 bucks is cheaper than 20 and I can use my air hammer for a million things. Your rivet gun can only be that, a rivet gun. I'm sure your way of doing it is fine, I'm just saying there are other ways. If someone posts something and I feel like there is a better way to do it, I'm gona post it. Dont take it personal. if your just gonna cry and moan and cause trouble every time some one disagrees with you, your not gonna last long here.

BTW, theres probably a mispelling in this post if you wanna try to make me look stupid again!!
 
Ok, just for the record. My original post to this thread was for an easy one man rivet installation. Not everyone can get someone lined up to help them do some work when they need it done.

Closed end blind rivets are stronger than the regular open end "pop" rivets, they're used in marine and aviation applications because they have a watertight and airtight seal. they're usually used when the back of the rivet is inaccessible for bucking... and if they're good enough for airplanes, they're good enough for my boat!!!

Closed end blind rivets may not be quite as strong as solid rivets, but that why we step up from a 3/16 dia. to a 1/4" dia.

Just because something isn't "your way" of doing things, it doesn't mean it's a bad way. there's as many ways to do something as there is people to tell you how to do it.
 
jigngrub said:
Just because something isn't "your way" of doing things, it doesn't mean it's a bad way. there's as many ways to do something as there is people to tell you how to do it.
Exactly, and if you'll go back and read my post, I never said your way was wrong or even bad. I just said your way wasnt necissarily best and gave an option I thought was better. Does that mean I'm right? Not entirely but based on the fact that EVERY manufacturer as far as I'm aware that makes riveted boats, uses solid rivets, I tend to think thats probably the best way. Cheaper too, providing one allready owns a compresor.

As for the reply to the other guy that you tried to make look stupid in the same post as me, you just agreed with him in your last post, lol.
 
bill11 said:
Most hull rivets are 3/16 solid. I would call starcraft. Also-- google a solid rivot supply store and see what type of rivet head style they used on your boat. Alot of times people will use the next larger size rivet if the origional hole gets damaged during repair. the rivot should be coated with some 3m 5200 as an added measure to prevent leaks. --- bill11

I'm having a hard time understands these rivet sizes. I also have a starcraft and will call them tomorrow, but what is the i size up from 3/16?
 
mmarz4evr said:
bill11 said:
Most hull rivets are 3/16 solid. I would call starcraft. Also-- google a solid rivot supply store and see what type of rivet head style they used on your boat. Alot of times people will use the next larger size rivet if the origional hole gets damaged during repair. the rivot should be coated with some 3m 5200 as an added measure to prevent leaks. --- bill11

I'm having a hard time understands these rivet sizes. I also have a starcraft and will call them tomorrow, but what is the i size up from 3/16?

I believe he next size up is 1/4" .

On another note, how do you know if you need to replace the rivet? I ha e a couple that are leaking but read somewhere in another thread about using a hammer and anvil to tighten them up followed by some 5200.

Also, is ordering online he only place/way to get rivets tools and 3m5200? Do they sell it at home depot by chance?
 
Bump.

Hoping that someone can help me decide if I need to replace the rivets, or if hammering them and sealing them is enough. Tia.
 
When I was a kid, I had a riveted bottom boat that leaked like a sieve, but I reckon that's because I jumped waves with the dang thing like it was a jet ski. (I was a bit of a hellraiser in my youth) We tightened them up with the hammer and anvil method, and it worked somewhat. probably would have worked better if I had used 5200 on the rivets, but I didn't know about that stuff way back then.
 

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