Sears Jon Boats

crannman

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Trying to find the year my Model 61113 Sears Jon Boat was made.

Pre-1972 so no HUll Identification Number HIN).

Went through spring and winter archives of on-line Sears catalogs from 1962 to 1971 to find when they made the year of my 11’-9” model Jon boat.

https://christmas.musetechnical.com/seasonal

Choose the year and searched on “Jon” and it lists the pages that apply.

Looks like my 11’- 9” was made in the 1968-1969 timeframe.

1962 6K62127N
1963 W6A62127N
1964 W6K62127N
1965 W6A62127N
1966 6H62127N
1967 spring 6A61112N fall/winter 6G61112N
1968 spring W6P61113N fall/winter 6W61112N
1969 spring 6A61113N fall/winter 6F61112N
1970 spring 6P61813N winter 6H61834N
1971 (fiberglass) 12’ 6B61834N, 11’-11” 6B61813N, 11’ 8-3/4 6B61807N

Just given this boat by my brother and sister in law! This fall I stripped the paint, sprayed 2 coats of SeaHawk Jon boat green and getting ready to epoxy the bottom with FASCO super slick 2000.
Next is installing Scotty rod holders and anchor bracket. Using composite shims to make the rod holder and anchor brackets level to the angled sides of the boat. Installing SeaDeck EVA foam for the floor on each side of drain channels.
Have a Newport Vessels 64 lb thrust trolling motor. Making my own battery power box with 60 amp circuit breaker, volt meter and battery terminal quick disconnects. Have a 10’ extension for the battery harness to test positioning the battery in forward positions to see how the boat performs.
Waiting until spring to buy the battery. I like the VMAX 110 amp hour but continuing to shop around.
Fun project that will be done for next spring!
 

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crannman

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Attached some photos of my Jon boat restoration project!
 

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rocksteady1

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I have a 1987 Sears Jon

Im going to use some of that aluma hawk paint myself. What sprayer did you use? I figured I could roll it but sprayer would be easiest.

Also would that epoxy work in as well?
 

crannman

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I really like the SeaHawk paint, especially that it’s both a primer and paint. I could not find the MEK that is recommended as a reducer so I used an MEK substitute that I saw at Lowe’s and at a Sherman Williams paint store. I cut it about 20% because it is really thick stuff. I prepared the aluminum per the instructions. Used distilled white vinegar to etch the aluminum and cleaned with water until paper towels wiped fairly clean. I have never used an air sprayer before and it was a real learning experience! My problem was managing the overspray! The first coat came out okay and not too bad on the second. I’m not happy with the way the bench seats came out so I may try painting them with a roller! It seems like a very durable paint and there’s a few videos on UTube to check out as well. As far as the FASCO super slick 2000, it sure seems like a great product! I’ve gone over the bottom and sides and used the JB Weld waterproof stuff to fix Some obvious leaks. I have all the paint removed and looking to prep the surface and apply that next!
I’ll post some pictures when the bottom is done!
 

crannman

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Oh, I used a gravity fed spray gun with a disposable water filter that fit on the inlet to the spray gun.
I borrowed the spay gun and don’t have the brand name.
 

crannman

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Today I cut the SeaDeck EVA foam for the floor.
I plan to install it in between the water channels and ribs. Should help to deaden sound and provide some traction! Trying to keep the boat as light as possible so it’s easy for me to load and unload from my pick up by myself!
Took my time to first sketch and lay out what was needed before ordering a 40” x 80” sheet. Worked out the sizes on paper first to optimize the coverage! Sketched out the floor and measurements and assigned a number for each bay 1 thru 4, and then marked the back of the EVA foam to match the layout on sketch. Going to use the remaining material from the floor to cover the seat aft of the bow.
Used scissors this time as my utility knife went a little off on the straight edge into the material the last time I used it!
Scissors took a little more time and effort but came out nice. I bent and curled the strip I was cutting forward of the cut which helped to make the cut a bit easier and straight!
Next I’ll lay out the lengths for each bay.
 

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rocksteady1

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It’s raining today so I probably won’t do much. How nasty is that paint? I was considering using a roller and doing it outdoors. Was the Fasco 2000 easy to apply?
 

crannman

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I think the paint is good stuff. I used a paint stick to stir and lift the sediment from the bottom of the can to the top to mix it up. It is a bit thick but it appears that it would roll okay. I guess you could cut it a bit with MEK or MEK substitute. I’m going to roll the tops of the bench seats once I get a warm day and let you know how it goes!
I haven’t applied the FASCO super slick 2000 yet but again, waiting for a warmer day to apply it! Will be sure to post pictures when it’s in progress and completed!
 

crannman

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Trolling Motor Battery Box, Volt Meter, Circuit Breaker, and Power Cables:
Working on the design for the battery box today.
Going to put a volt meter and circuit breaker in a Pelican box and mount the box to the transom. I'll run the wires to a red plug I bought for the trolling motor and the other end to the quick disconnects for the battery!
Here's a picture of the mock up! It's coming along a little at a time! 🤠👍
 

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crannman

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Applied the FASCO Super Slick 2000 yesterday! Really like the way it came out! Have to work fast like they say! Used 2 of the quart kits for my 12’ Jon boat (part 1 pint, part 2 pint and 1 oz pigment).
Per the directions, first mixed part 2 with the pigment to mix the color then added part 1. Directions say not to use electric drill and mixer. Best to mix with stirring stick.
Used about a 1” round, 4” long 1/4” nap one coat oil and latex roller. Poured a length of about 16” at a time, and rolled it in one direction to push the epoxy in front of the roller then quickly side to side and up and down the ribs to coat them and missed spots.
Made sure that each rivet was filled in and coated with the epoxy.
Used this gentle adhesive tape and 18” wide painters paper to cover the newly painted camo.
I removed the tape and paper after a couple of hours when the epoxy was setting up and I could still remove it. The tape lifted up the epoxy a bit at the edge but I was able to quickly run my finger down the edge a little at a time to stick the epoxy down and make a good seal.
Next step are to apply some decals, EVA foam for the floor, power harness/battery box, rod holder and anchor mounts!
 

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Jim

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Looking awesome bud! :beer:


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crannman

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Trolling Motor Bracket:
So the clamp on my new trolling motor is not deep enough for the turn screw pads to fully engage the transom. Did not want to fabricate anything and wanted to keep the top flat to ease with loading and unloading from my pickup truck.
Found this device that saddles the transom deep enough to secure it and then mount my trolling motor to it. I like that it’s removable and can be mounted either on the bow or transom.
Haven’t tested it yet on the water but seems to made well.
 

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Jim

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That’s great! Let us know how it works out after a few tests.


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crannman

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FASCO Super Slick 2000 - mixing
Used paint stick to first mix pigment with part 2 then added part 1. Went pretty good!
 

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crannman

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Installed my anchor bracket and 3 rod holder and bracket. Using a 4” roller and a foam brush to apply a second coat of Sea Hawk paint to the inside. Started installing the EVA foam on the floor.
 

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crannman

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Close to being done!
Finished up the electrical today; circuit breaker and volt meter box, battery quick disconnects, trolling motor power plug and harness.
Waiting for a metal bracket and wide strap with cam lock to secure the battery box holding a 60+ lb battery!
Need to finish up the EVA foam on the sides of the floor and putting a second coat of paint on the inside gunnels.
Almost ready for a test run!
 

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crannman

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A few pictures of the progress!
 

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