xbacksideslider
Well-known member
This applies to bow mounting a typical transom mount TM
See pics 3 and 12 of my photobucket, linked below.
One reason everyone wants to fabricate a bracket is that the gunnel and hull at the bow, unlike at the stern, are not vertical, they are not at approximate right angles to the water - they are sloped.
That said, there is usually some angle adjustment in the TM transom clamp assembly and usually the clamp screws of the TM will open wide enough to fit over the gunnel.
So, use a table saw to cut blocks of wood to the thickness that you want and glue them to the hull just below and flush with the gunnel. My TM has enough angle adjustment to cut the blocks without any angle at all - just parallel, but the table saw could be used of course to get any angle you want.
Now you can clamp the trolling motor directly to these blocks (one inside, one outside) that are directly bearing on the hull. The blocks are notched slightly so they lay flush to the hull and fit over the edge of the gunnel extrusion. I used hardwood and a thin coat of silicone seal; no way those blocks are coming off short of a pry bar yet I can "go back to stock" in 5 minutes.
.
See pics 3 and 12 of my photobucket, linked below.
One reason everyone wants to fabricate a bracket is that the gunnel and hull at the bow, unlike at the stern, are not vertical, they are not at approximate right angles to the water - they are sloped.
That said, there is usually some angle adjustment in the TM transom clamp assembly and usually the clamp screws of the TM will open wide enough to fit over the gunnel.
So, use a table saw to cut blocks of wood to the thickness that you want and glue them to the hull just below and flush with the gunnel. My TM has enough angle adjustment to cut the blocks without any angle at all - just parallel, but the table saw could be used of course to get any angle you want.
Now you can clamp the trolling motor directly to these blocks (one inside, one outside) that are directly bearing on the hull. The blocks are notched slightly so they lay flush to the hull and fit over the edge of the gunnel extrusion. I used hardwood and a thin coat of silicone seal; no way those blocks are coming off short of a pry bar yet I can "go back to stock" in 5 minutes.
.