the minnow - 70 something lowe riveted 20x5 - blank slate

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zzzybil

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/40439153@N07/9873325204/in/photostream/

so there she is......... still looking for advice for beginners ......pearls of wisdom

.....really need to fab some kind of grab rail at the bow ..... it's a big step up and down for me off the platform -especially boarding or exiting -> broke my ankle last summer - not bad gimpy but not agile sure footed either !

got a brand new 20 hp electric start,electric tilt tohatsu 4 stroke - advice on that welcome too- hopefully i can figure it out ........but any do' don'ts on any of the pieces parts is welcome......i'm more worried about security than learnin to operate it ...lol...( ADVICE THERE TOO ! )

1st priority is getting the trailer lights on and getting a plate & the trailer ship shape.. rehab the hubs or new hubs ?? going to get my mechanic to do that - anything else i'm game to ''try'' diy !........love a challenge , project ,

if yuh scroll past boat -> haha to other projects - built that play house ( coupla yrs of spare change and lotta sweatin )........and my toy car (turbo'd the 4 banger- now that WAS SREIOUS a brain fart ) lotta lotta headaches but a hoot now !!

ohhhhhh those were TUFF - this will be piece of cake with a lil guidance !!
...... i can be pretty handy ! and good at finding instructions !

i know there is a WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE HERE !! found me a home !!
JUST TELL ME and i'll sort it out , figure it out !......gotta learn some foundation and essentials - FIRST..........this is going to be awesome ! my 1st boat !

sooooooo whatcha think - POTENTIAL ?????
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330019#p330019 said:
zzzybil » Today, 09:19[/url]"]https://www.flickr.com/photos/40439153@N07/9873325204/in/photostream/

so there she is......... still looking for advice for beginners ......pearls of wisdom

.....really need to fab some kind of grab rail at the bow ..... it's a big step up and down for me off the platform -especially boarding or exiting -> broke my ankle last summer - not bad gimpy but not agile sure footed either !


I've seen people make bow rails for flounder gigging, by taking some galvanized pipe with threaded ends, then, using some T's, 90's, and base flanges, they make a railing which bolts to the bow. This rail is usually waist-high, but you could use shorter lengths of pipe, to make the railing shorter.



got a brand new 20 hp electric start,electric tilt tohatsu 4 stroke - advice on that welcome too- hopefully i can figure it out ........but any do' don'ts on any of the pieces parts is welcome......i'm more worried about security than learnin to operate it ...lol...( ADVICE THERE TOO ! )

Not sure what you mean by 'security' Do you mean making it more difficult for a thief to swipe? If so, then my suggestion would be to not only clamp it to the transom, but to thru-bolt it, as well. Also, some clamps have holes in the ends of the handles, where you can put a lock. Locked and bolted, might slow a thief down enough, he will move on and find an easier motor to swipe. Unfortunately, placing a claymore mine near the boat to protect it from thieves is frowned upon by the ATF, even though we all know that's about the best way to deal with a thief... so, we just have to settle for other methods of securing it!




1st priority is getting the trailer lights on and getting a plate & the trailer ship shape.. rehab the hubs or new hubs ?? going to get my mechanic to do that - anything else i'm game to ''try'' diy !........love a challenge , project ,



My suggestion would be to put the lights up on guide poles. This keeps them out of the water, as well as having a set of guides to assist trailering the boat, and having a little more visibility of the position of your trailer as you start backing down a ramp, you don't lose sight of it, and end up jack-knifing. As for the hubs, if it's just some surface rust and the bolt threads look OK, you might be able to clean them up, and install new bearings and races. But if the rust is really bad, you might want to just replace the hubs.




if yuh scroll past boat -> haha to other projects - built that play house ( coupla yrs of spare change and lotta sweatin )........and my toy car (turbo'd the 4 banger- now that WAS SREIOUS a brain fart ) lotta lotta headaches but a hoot now !!

ohhhhhh those were TUFF - this will be piece of cake with a lil guidance !!
...... i can be pretty handy ! and good at finding instructions !

i know there is a WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE HERE !! found me a home !!
JUST TELL ME and i'll sort it out , figure it out !......gotta learn some foundation and essentials - FIRST..........this is going to be awesome ! my 1st boat !

sooooooo whatcha think - POTENTIAL ?????


There's potential in everything. Just look at my boat, it was heavily damaged from electrolysis, and destined for the scrapyard. Electrolysis was so bad on the center strake, you could put your hand through it. 8 years later, I'm still blasting over shoals in 4 inches of water at 40 MPH with that boat, and it doesn't leak a drop.
 
A couple of years ago, a friend needed some physical aids to manuver in her house. We put in support bars in a couple of places.

Same thing might work, especially if you just want to pull yourself up to a deck. I looked around and this seems like some of the items we put in. I liked it because it folded back out of the way, once it was used.
https://www.acessinc.com/images/product401full_002.jpg
here's one site: https://www.acessinc.com/

Not sure if this is the type of thing you are looking for, but it makes for a clean installation, but should be solidly mounted.

Have fun, be safe.
 
Talk to Dawson at Fish on Fabrications he will build you whatever you want. Plus he is a sponsor of the site
 
thanks for the links .......too pricey .......have to scrounge around homodepo - pipes & t's sounds affordable.....i'll think of something...work it out
..it'll take me a while to accumulate everything i need.....
 
Remember what I said in my other post about using a backer plate underneath the base flanges. If you can access the underside, this is by far the strongest means of mounting, using thru-bolts and the backer plate. Simply attaching to the boat with self-tappers might hold for a while, but will eventually strip out.
 
thats gotta be at least an 1/8 '' aluminum plate on the back of the transom..... ( it looks like the same diamond plate thats on the floor - i can see diamond on inside edge )......on the inside of the transom there's a ? long strip maybe 4'' wide by 30'' - rusty but still solid idk ? steel ?? ........the middle wood needs sealing ? but is still solid.......

there's 2 braces showing and a 3rd i have to put back that connects to the floor........ are you saying that is NOT enuff ??

i'll post some better pics in a coupla days when i'm off again...... let you have a better look at both sides........thanks !
 
No, the transom and everything else looks adequate. I was referring to mounting the bow rail, you should use a backer plate under the base flanges for that.

gotcha -THANKS ! - i wouldn't have thought of that ....... haven't crawled up in there yet but yup - oughta be able get to it ......
thats exactley kinda advice i need !! appreciate it
 
Man, get rid of flickr or at least figure out how to post pics in your thread...

guess i'll stumble onto the instructions ?????
throw me a link would help get me on the course you desire

SORRY - thought i saw a post saying USE online link to pics ??.....idk whats wrong with flickr but as soon as i figure it out I WILL

.....finished my 72 hr work week and off -i'll have time for the boat after family stuff and chores........
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330406#p330406 said:
zzzybil » Today, 14:15[/url]"]
guess i'll stumble onto the instructions ?????
throw me a link would help get me on the course you desire

SORRY - thought i saw a post saying USE online link to pics ??.....idk whats wrong with flickr but as soon as i figure it out I WILL

.....finished my 72 hr work week and off -i'll have time for the boat after family stuff and chores........


Here's how to post pics directly to your thread:

Scroll down below your text box, and you'll see a button that says "choose file" Click this, and it should open up your computer files, such as desktop, documents, etc.

Find the file where you have the pics stored, and select it, which should then show the pics. Select the picture, then hit 'choose' When you hit this, you should see the file name in the box next to 'choose file' Next, hit the button to the right that says "add file" It will take a few seconds to upload.

Note: if the picture is the wrong format, like 'tiff' it won't load, and if the file exceeds 2 Mb, it won't load. Most jpegs will load without problems.

Hope this helps.
 
Whats with the turnbuckles between the transom and the splashwell?
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330453#p330453 said:
T Man » 26 Sep 2013, 01:15[/url]"]Whats with the turnbuckles between the transom and the splashwell?

dint know the proper name was turnbuckles . - it came with 3 turnbuckles - the 3rd connects to a plate bolted to bottom & floor -up ........ (took it off temporarily ) to clean underneath diamond plate......i assume it had a big outboard at some point and the turnbuckles are BRACING ???...

..EVERYTHING appears sound...... i took the plates up and power washed the bottom.....looks same as sides ....NO obvious bad spots & besides a lil crud.....The underneath floor is fine - looks same as the rest of inside

idk if it needs them - someone went through the trouble of bolting a plate to attach the 3rd turnbuckle solid to bottom and floor......i assume they tighten/brace up the back of boat to the transom.....all intentions of putting that 3rd one back in ?? it is kinda a foot hazard ? idk if it will interefer with placement of gas tanks .....OR IF THEY ARE NECESSARY ??????

YOU tell me ????? the new outboard weighs 140 lbs - i figure keep all of them ?? they gotta add strength right ?
 
Typically, the manufacturer will install what's called a 'knee brace' that runs from the transom to the floor, which serves the same purpose as turnbuckles, to reinforce the transom against the torque of an engine.

If the turnbuckles are the only bracing back there, I'd leave the two that go to each side, but do away with the one that's in the way of where you want to put the gas tank. With a 140 lb engine on a boat this size, I don't really see the need in 3 turnbuckles, unless there are already signs of stress cracks where the transom meets the gunwales of the boat at the corners.
 
With a 140 lb engine on a boat this size, I don't really see the need in 3 turnbuckles, unless there are already signs of stress cracks where the transom meets the gunwales of the boat at the corners.

i know the boat is going to be UNDERPOWERED - my only REAL concern is while it bounces down the road....that's when i assume these braces will serve a purpose
...i'm glad you dont think its necessary ? i thought 140 lbs bouncing @ back of trailer all 3 were a good idea

i'll give it a good look see for stress cracks or any cracks..... there are none visible on outside?..
i need to crawl around look inside underneath the transom from inside the boat- can't say i looked at that yet

no doubt the present transom holes won't match up with the new outboard - i could use advice on what HOW best way to deal with them ? goop ? any particular goop or make a lil plug with a stick and goop ? - just squirt a lil silicone in them ???????

plenty time to answer - 1st chore is complete trailer lights :roll:
 
3M 5200 is what most tinboaters trust to seal up holes. I also like Locktite PL S30. Its a polyurethane sealant you can find at home depot in the roofing section. The locktite comes in a caulking tube. If the holes are real big you might want to put some stainless bolts thru with the sealant.
 
Yep, 5200 is the best sealant to use for something like this.

Ideally, you would take sections of aluminum round stock the thickness of the transom, place them in the holes, and weld the ends, fusing them to the transom metal, then grind it flush, to completely fill the existing holes. But that's a bit overkill, and not necessary. Fill 'em with 5200 and be done with it.
 

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