V Hull Project

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Thanks fishingmich the motor itself was well worth what I paid for the boat. I agree with you on the revving part its really the only downside for me.

I was doing some brainstorming tonight about the bow bracket and the two rear ones they have a handle design that I absolutely cant stand. Instead of using the brackets Im thinking of fabricating new brackets with aluminum angle and some aluminum sheet to give a flat surface for anything needed such as navigation lights. For the bow I'm thinking of doing the bracket the same way I also want a solid surface for the top for an eventual trolling motor and to make the board more rigid. Right now its far to light and floppy for my taste. (Yes floppy is a technical term :D )

The other thing I'm thinking about is replacing the top aluminum lining with either aluminum angle or aluminum channel. The main reason for doing this is to make the boat more uniform if I decide to fabricate the brackets. If this is a good or bad idea let me know. I'm open for suggestions I want my boat to be as safe and structurally sound as possible, so anywhere I can beef it up I'll do it.
 
There should be a throttle lever on the choke system that you twist and it will pull your throttle linkage and it will warm up the engine. Atleast that's how the 25hp works, possibly adding a shift cable to the throttle linkage would be a nice and simple fix if you do not have the warm up idler kit.
 
Buddy excuse my ignorance I feel like a total dummy I'm familiar with the idler knob. I'm use to throttle controls not tiller. On my motor its called a primer and you can adjust the idle speed so it just didn't register in my mind.

Learned a good bit today went by AutoZone and picked up Rustoleum Airplane stripper. I thought I had done enough research but guess not. I poured some stripper in a container and brushed it on the front half of the hull I should never had done that much at once oh well that's a lesson learned. The paint started peeling as it dried i added another coat. The majority of the paint is off I dried the hull once I was done. I still have a wee bit more to do the instructions said to prime as soon as possible due to rust I didn't think aluminium rusted. I'm not planning to prime until I've sealed the rivets and seams with Gluvit. I hope to have all the paint out of the front by tomorrow. Praying for a hot dry day tomorrow.
 

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Hey BC, I think your right about the choke idle switch knob thingamajigger! I thought about that later and I believe your right, that is what that's for Kinda hard to check it right now but once the weather gets a little colder here in beautiful Michigan, I'll be able to test that theory out. Thanks for the input.
 
Make sure if you take it apart to write down and draw diagrams! Mine was rigged and I've had to order the parts and put it together on my own, even the mercury service manual doesn't show a good picture of it

Once I get the linkage I'm missing I'll do a writeup on my 14' mirrocraft V-Hull thread of how that contraption works. So if you ever have to take it apart you'll have photos to help you along with re assembly
 
The inside of the boat has about 90% of the paint removed the weather has been pretty crummy the past few days so I haven't been able to work on it like I wanted to. Since all of the rain we've had I decided to take the boat off the trailer and flip it over for several reasons. The first is to check the hull for any repairs needed, to repair or adjust any bunks or rollers on the trailer, and finally to begin removing paint on the hull bottom. I've also found that if I sand before the stripper is applied the paint is removed much better. Some places on this boat the paint was applied unevenly meaning the stripper will take it off no problem in some areas say with one layer of paint and primer but areas with more than one layer two applications of stripper are needed. I'm letting the stripper soak in for 15 minutes which seems to be optimal. Hopefully more will be done this week.
 
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