What do you think of these wheels/hubs, do I need to replace

[Hydrilla]

So assuming Northern Tool has an axle that's the right length for my boat, is it as simple as removing the U bolts and swapping the old one with the new? Looks to me like the current one is just connected with U bolts. If it's this simple, and if I can use one of the $52.99 axles from Northern Tool, then this is a no brainer for me. Like you said, just having a standard length spindle would be worth it I think.

 

[Hydrilla]

Here's a better pic of my axle, might help someone better answer my question. I now know the different measurements you're supposed to take when replacing a trailer. I guess the only thing I need to know now is if I attach it with just U bolts, which is how mine appears to be attached.

 

[russ010]

check these guys out... they may be able to help you. Also tell them that you learned of them from tinboats.net

https://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/

 

[danmyersmn]

Here's a better pic of my axle, might help someone better answer my question. I now know the different measurements you're supposed to take when replacing a trailer. I guess the only thing I need to know now is if I attach it with just U bolts, which is how mine appears to be attached.

Yes attach it with just u-bolts. I would replace the u-bolts at the same time since your going to have them off. The way they are on your trailer I would want to use nylock nuts or lock washers and probably red locktite as well.

 

[Hydrilla]

Thanks guys. I'm about to back up and punt on the trailer restore part of my project. The overall length of the axle is 57" (close to that, anyway- just had my wife measure), and nobody locally carries one that size, or close to it, really- not that is the type I need anyway. That means ordering one. I gotta think about the cost of this. New axle, new hubs, new wheels, jackstand, winch... I know for a fact I can get a decent trailer that needs very little/nothing for what I'm putting into this one. I am thinking about listing this one on CL and just finding a used one for sale.

 

[danmyersmn]

Another option might be to hunt around until you find a hub like that one you have and buy 3 of them. Then if you have some sort of failure you have a replacement.

 

[danmyersmn]

Try this place.
https://trailerpartsexpress.com/store/idlerhubassem.html

It looks like the BT8 hub is what your looking for? $18 each and a spare hub would be pretty cheap vs. a new trailer. I bet if you call them with measurements you have they will know what you need.

 

[Hydrilla]

OK I got over my "moment" and am back at it. I went to Northern Tool after work, and while their square galvanized axle is longer, it's not by that much. The wheels will end up sitting about an inch, maybe a little more, further out than with the old axle. I went ahead and bought it. I'll need to do a few things- pick up some longer U bolts because this axle is slightly larger in diameter than my old one, drill new holes in the axle since the current ones are too wide apart, and then figure out if I need to seal the holes with anything after drilling- I seem to remember reading that it will rust if you drill holes in something that's been galvanized. Also I'm pretty sure that I'm going to need to cut off my current fenders and either get some wider ones, or figure out a way to space them further out from the sides of the trailer.

EDIT: One more thing it looks like I am going to have to do is cut off/grind the U bolt plates on top, since I'm having a hard time finding anyone who carries my size of U bolts, which is around 2 3/4" wide.

 

[danmyersmn]

I have moments like that too. You want to pitch your project and buy a better new project. Then you realize the new one is going to come with baggage too. If you sourced the axle at Northern, I would think they have u-bolts for it?

Looking at the pic of your current axle it does not appear that you have any holes in the axle? Isn't it mounted to the springs by the pressure of the u-bolts holding it in place? Did you go with a different type of axle?

If you drill new holes you can spray them with zinc galvanizing compound (rattle can $5 just about anywhere) and then paint them with whatever your painting the trailer with.

 

[Hydrilla]

Thanks as always for the info, you've been very helpful. The original axle did have holes that just held it in place on a stud that sticks out below the leaf springs. It's just under 1/2" so I'll measure carefully, drill new holes, and coat the holes with that stuff you mentioned. Northern Tool did have plenty of U-bolts but I bought the wrong ones. I didn't realize the plate was welded on/not easily removed. I don't think it's a big deal to go with a similar size, grind off the existing plates and just add ones that match whatever U-bolts I'm using. Sounds much easier than trying to find a match.

 

[danmyersmn]

Oh, I know what you are saying. The springs has a bolt through it to hold all the leaf's in place. The bolt head goes into a hole on the axle shaft to keep the shaft centered on the leaf's. I thought you where referring to spring perch mounts. When I put a new 8 3/4" rear differential under my '67 barracuda I had to grind off the perches and reweld them in a new location. At least you don't have that hassle

I don't think that plate will be welded to the springs. By applying heat to the spring to weld the plate on it would alter the non-scientific term coming: "springiness" of the spring. It might be rusted in place. Try banging it with a hammer and see if it pops off.

The protection paint might be referred to as "cold galvanizing compound" as well. Lowes, Home Depot, Napa, probably Northern too.

 

[danmyersmn]

Looking at that pic again it looks like maybe the head of the bolt through the leaf is on top and the nut and bolt shaft are out the bottom? That might be how the u-bolt plate is attached. It might be welded to the bolt? Either way, I am confident it is not going to be welded to the spring itself. You will find out easy enough as you start tearing it apart.

 

[shizzy77]

is there a spring shop or truck shop nearby? many of them can make up a set of U bolts quite cheap.

 

[Hydrilla]

The plates popped off very easily. I was able to mark and drill the axle, and it fits on the studs under the leaf springs. Of course the set of U bolts and plates that Northern Tool said would fit my setup does not. The U bolts are too short. Instead of one U bolt per side, I went with the square plates and two U bolts per side. Back to the store tomorrow I guess.

 

[danmyersmn]

cool, your almost there. A bit more work and you'll have shiny new rolling assembly under your trailer that will last a long long time! It looks like your fenders are welded to a piece of bar stock that is bolted to the trailer? You could replace those bolts with longer ones and space that flat bar stock away from the trailer frame an 1" - 1 1/2" with stacked up washers. You will have have a gap between that bar stock and the trailer but it would allow you to move the fenders out and be done with it. Then you could come back to the fenders at another time if you didn't like the "look" or when you want to spend more time/energy/$ on the project. Maybe even cut the bar stock so that it is only an inch or so out the front and back of the fender. I can't see from the one pic any reason that the bar stock needs to be so long out the front and back of the fender? Is it one long piece? Perhaps you could move the two bolts inside of the fender and space it out using longer bolts and washers and cut it flush with the fender front/back?

 

[Hydrilla]

Yep, it's one piece. Didn't think about spacing it, that's a good idea. You just saved me from cutting the fenders off, I think I should try your suggestion before I resort to that. Not sure why the bar would need to be as long as it is, I need to look at it when I get home.

 

[Hydrilla]

Made a lot of progress tonight. I found a place in Winston Salem (near my work) called Auto Spring, they are a really good fabrication shop. A guy made up the U-bolts I needed to fit the plates I already have, in just a few minutes while I waited.

I now have the axle on, new hubs from Northern Tool, and new wheels. There are only a couple of issues left- the fender clearance, and the cheesy, non fitting dust covers that come with the Reliable brand hubs sold by Northern Tool. Unfortunately the bar stock that the fenders are welded to is more than just holding the fender on, it wraps underneath, and is also what the leaf springs are connected so. So it looks like cutting the fenders off and welding on new ones is going to be the way to go. This doesn't concern me in the least. In the mean time, I've bent the outside lip of the fender out with some pliers so they won't rub the tires.

As to the dust covers, I'm gonna get some bearing buddies. This thing is starting to look like a trailer, I think I'm over the hump. Muchas gracias.