azekologi
Well-known member
Question for all the sparkys or sparky juniors out there…
I’m upgrading from my decrepit battery-powered lights navigation lights to wired navigation lights (see thread https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13952 for more info).
In a nutshell, I’ll be running the nav light wiring through the port side gunwale from bow to stern (12’), double back outside the gunwale from the stern to the rear seat (2’), where it will run to a switched panel (exact length TBD, ~2’-4’). Depending on where I place the switch panel, the length of the circuit (round trip) will be 32’-36’ (using 16’ to 18’ of wire).
The bi-colored bow light has a single 10W, 12V bulb. The packaging doesn’t list the amp draw; however similar lights list a draw of 0.62A. I’d guess it would be safe to say that it draws less than 1A? There are two short black leads coming off of the light, one wire has no writing, the other has this; “AWM 1015 22AWG VW-1 105°C 600V E77981 Wonderful CSA AWM”. I’m not sure what all of that means, but I infer that it’s 22 gauge wire (“22AWG”).
From what I’ve read so far, using low-consumption accessories (lights, blowers, electronics and panel board feeds), I should calculate gauge based on a 3% voltage drop.
I have a fair amount of room in the 1-1.25” diameter gunwales, but there are a few screws along the length of the gunwales which I will need to fish the wire past, so I do see some advantage going with the smallest gauge safely possible. Given a 3% drop, the 1A (0.62A) draw, and a round trip circuit length of 32’-36’ feet, I calculate that I need either 18 or 20 gauge wires, possibly 22 gauge as the draw is so minimal.
Does this sound correct? Should I match the leads coming off the lights and go with 22 gauge wires? Can I mix the gauges? What do you suggest as the best gauge for the job? (I’m 99.9% positive that I won’t attach anything else to this electrical circuit).
The second question I had was about using the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) color standards for marine wiring of boat accessories. According to the ABYC, RED is used as a DC Positive Conductor / Positive Mains, BLACK or YELLOW are used for DC Negative Conductor / Negative Mains, and GRAY is used for Navigation Lights.
Should I use these? Does it really matter that much? What would YOU do?
My local boat supply store, West Marine, sells Ancor brand 18-2 red/yellow “safety wire” or 18-2 red/black duplex for $0.96/ft, or 20-2 red/black duplex for $0.75/ft. Both conductors are individually insulated (either red/yellow or red/black – no gray option that I found), in a white jacket, and seem to be marine grade (some of the pictures show the white jacket stamped with "Ancor Marine Grade", others do not- probably just the pics though). I’m sure with the power of the internet I could find other options. :roll:
I plan to solder the connections and use 4”-6” of heat shrink wrap over each connection. As I won’t be immediately putting in a switch panel, I’ll zip tie up the extra length of wire and use clips to connect the wires directly to the battery as needed. I don't need a fuse or anything, do I? I’ll still be running my battery-operated 360° white anchor light until the mod progresses to the switch panel stage.
Anyway, thanks in advance for the help/advice! Cheers! :beer:
I’m upgrading from my decrepit battery-powered lights navigation lights to wired navigation lights (see thread https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13952 for more info).
In a nutshell, I’ll be running the nav light wiring through the port side gunwale from bow to stern (12’), double back outside the gunwale from the stern to the rear seat (2’), where it will run to a switched panel (exact length TBD, ~2’-4’). Depending on where I place the switch panel, the length of the circuit (round trip) will be 32’-36’ (using 16’ to 18’ of wire).
The bi-colored bow light has a single 10W, 12V bulb. The packaging doesn’t list the amp draw; however similar lights list a draw of 0.62A. I’d guess it would be safe to say that it draws less than 1A? There are two short black leads coming off of the light, one wire has no writing, the other has this; “AWM 1015 22AWG VW-1 105°C 600V E77981 Wonderful CSA AWM”. I’m not sure what all of that means, but I infer that it’s 22 gauge wire (“22AWG”).
From what I’ve read so far, using low-consumption accessories (lights, blowers, electronics and panel board feeds), I should calculate gauge based on a 3% voltage drop.
I have a fair amount of room in the 1-1.25” diameter gunwales, but there are a few screws along the length of the gunwales which I will need to fish the wire past, so I do see some advantage going with the smallest gauge safely possible. Given a 3% drop, the 1A (0.62A) draw, and a round trip circuit length of 32’-36’ feet, I calculate that I need either 18 or 20 gauge wires, possibly 22 gauge as the draw is so minimal.
Does this sound correct? Should I match the leads coming off the lights and go with 22 gauge wires? Can I mix the gauges? What do you suggest as the best gauge for the job? (I’m 99.9% positive that I won’t attach anything else to this electrical circuit).
The second question I had was about using the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) color standards for marine wiring of boat accessories. According to the ABYC, RED is used as a DC Positive Conductor / Positive Mains, BLACK or YELLOW are used for DC Negative Conductor / Negative Mains, and GRAY is used for Navigation Lights.
Should I use these? Does it really matter that much? What would YOU do?
My local boat supply store, West Marine, sells Ancor brand 18-2 red/yellow “safety wire” or 18-2 red/black duplex for $0.96/ft, or 20-2 red/black duplex for $0.75/ft. Both conductors are individually insulated (either red/yellow or red/black – no gray option that I found), in a white jacket, and seem to be marine grade (some of the pictures show the white jacket stamped with "Ancor Marine Grade", others do not- probably just the pics though). I’m sure with the power of the internet I could find other options. :roll:
I plan to solder the connections and use 4”-6” of heat shrink wrap over each connection. As I won’t be immediately putting in a switch panel, I’ll zip tie up the extra length of wire and use clips to connect the wires directly to the battery as needed. I don't need a fuse or anything, do I? I’ll still be running my battery-operated 360° white anchor light until the mod progresses to the switch panel stage.
Anyway, thanks in advance for the help/advice! Cheers! :beer: