Weldbilt 1752 build (Finally complete)

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Hopefully that's enough. I've seen floors that are .125 sag between cross braces. You have to install frame supports between the stock cross braces in the boat. I'm about to do some on the 1652 im doing. I will post pictures for you this week.

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Thanks Prowelder. I'm looking forward to seeing pics. I'm holding off on everything in the rear until I see your rear deck. That's something I've always wanted.
 
Ok, I took the boat back to fabricator. I'm having an 8 gallon fuel cell made, along with a battery tray up front, and framing for a rear deck.

I was bored over the weekend, so I decided to wrap the steering wheel with 550 paracord. It was surprisingly easy after watching a couple YouTube videos. Here's the result:



 
good job !!
back in my Navy shipboard days, just about everything was wrapped
in white cotton line (didn't have paracord back then).
after the wrapping passed inspection, it was coated with several
applications of Spar Varnish. This not only gave it a nice honey color
but provided protection from the weather and the dirt and oil on your hands.
Once you get it dirty, you will find it impossible to get that new look back.
Like sealing plywood, start with a 50% thinned app of varnish.
if you want to color it , paint can also do the same job.
again, good job !!!
 
Thanks Jonny! I thought about spar urithane, but thought it might make it slippery. It only costs about $8 for the Paracord, and about an hour to wrap.
 
decorated line and ropework has been on boats and ships
since the cave man days.
I see that you have a real pretty stainless helm - which will be
more slippery when wet than a carp.
the wrapping you have done will be waaaayyyyyyy more better.
it will only improve the grip factor after it is painted or varnished.
please avoid any water based or latex paints and primers.
good luck !!! looks great !!
helm.jpg
wrapped.jpg
 
Yes sir! And just a little sweat and sunscreen makes it slick as a cow pie on a flat rock. I think I'll do an experiment before I do anything to the steering wheel. I have about 18 feet of order left, so I'll wrap the handle on my hammer and coat it with some spar varnish to see how it changes color and texture. Thanks for the info!
 
I got the boat back from the fabricator this morning. So much to talk about!

First, I was cruising the web looking at manual jack plates. I've been wanting one bad, but at over $200 it just wasn't a priority. So I'm doing some research and I come to the Cabela's site. I just about fell out of my chair when i saw this:


Yes..they're hydrolic and even come with a position guage for the console. $250??? Regular price was $1000!
So I bought two...LOL





Ok, now I can tell you about the fabrication. I wanted the space between the rear bench seat, and the transom framed. Mainly so I could deck that area to add more fishing space. But also to support the bench seat itself, and the transom. I need the extra strength in the transom now that a 42 lb jack plate will be hanging off the back. The framing is 2" square tube, with T stock in the middle. This deck is SOOO strong. On top is .125 aluminum. My plans are to rivet the .125 down with 1/4 rivets, and install 9" inspection covers like this.


Here's the framing:


And the decking over it.


Then there's the fuel cell. I promise you won't find another one like this. If my math is correct it's just over 5 gallons. It'll bolt in so I can clean/service it later on down the road. There's rubber anti fatigue mat under the fuel cell to keep it from chattering. This, along with the battery being mounted up front should offset a lot of the weight from the rear deck and console.








And the battery mount. I keep wanting to call it a tray. It's supported by 1" square tube underneath.
 
Man I have the same Jack Plate on my jet boat and I paid $1,100.00 for it, you wont be disappointed, Mine has performed perfect now for 5 years. 1 small piece of advise, if you do have a relay go bad, go ahead and buy the CMC 80 amp relays and not the cheap auto parts ones. I was buying 2 or 3 cheap relays a year, finally found the CMC relays, and haven't replaced one since.
 
MBWeimer, did you take receipt of your jackplate score yet?

I checked the site and they have changed to description to manual jackplate.

I'm hoping you scored yours before they corrected the issue.


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Well...Long story short, I won't be getting the jack plates I ordered. What I don't understand is it was a closeout sale...But they ship directly from the manufacturer. So how can they have a closeout sale if they don't have that product in inventory.

They still show the same PL65 jack plate WITHOUT a guage in stock, but won't give me that one for less than $719. I called Cabela's yesterday and spoke with a few different people but wasn't satisfied with the outcome, so I'll call back Monday.
 
The past few weeks I've been making slow, but steady progress. Took my issue with Cabela's to corporate, and they could care less. At least I didn't lose any money on the deal. But I don't believe I'll be doing any business with them again.

Anyway, I'm 99% finished applying the Tuff Coat. I went ahead and covered the tops of the stringers, and the tops of the rear deck supports with it for two reasons.
1- I had some pitting under the floor from where saltwater was trapped, and as thoroughly as I rinsed everything, it still remained trapped. So no more places for salwater to hide and remain trapped against bare aluminum.
2- One of the biggest complaints I had was the vibration at idle. The floor especially. I always had a loose pop rivet or two and that caused the floor to vibrate. Drive me nuts...

I also cut out some diamond plate to mount on the corner braces. I got the idea from Country Dave's 1752 Lowe build. (Thanks Dave). I hope to have the engine hung either this weekend or next. After that...Finish rigging, run the wiring, secure the floor and console, and it's done! I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel! Here's a few pics:









 
I had the whole day off today, and beautiful weather, although a bit warm. I decided to do some rolling and tipping since I have two quarts of paint leftover. I ended up covering those spots from the welder very well. I actually enjoyed the roll and tip method compared to spraying.





I also worked on mounting the cleats in the rear. I decided to put some scrap starboard to use and made some spacers. This insulates the stainless from the aluminum, and the larger back plate reinforces the aluminum that it's mounted to.





I tried to take a pic of the backing plate in there, but this is the best I could do.



More to come soon! I had a friend that works at West Marine order me an Atlas Micro Jacker at cost, so that'll be in tomorrow. By next weekend I should have the engine hung!
 
I didn't realize how long it's been since I posted on here. I've done a lot in the last couple weeks.

I hung the Atlas Micro Jacker, and the ETEC. I got a rare pic of my girlfriend helping me hang the engine. I couldn't have done it without her!









I finally got the engine running, after it wouldn't crank, I realized it was in gear. I was able to acquire EvDiag software from Evinrude free of charge. I was able to make my own cable too. On eBay they go for $60. I made mine for about $12. Of anyone is interested, I can do a write-up on the cable.



While I was under the hood, I replaced the fuel filter, a few fuel lines, water pressure guage hose, and made some longer battery cables.





Everything put back together.




Jack plate all the way up.


 
"I got a rare pic of my girlfriend helping me hang the engine. I couldn't have done it without her!"

Helped you with that install?????

Now thats a keeper...


Boat is looking great.
 
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