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Could be some sort of import or export classification number.

I was thinking the same thing, and then I scrolled down and saw this. That is exactly the way to go to allow for a heavier motor with more torque.

You, sir, are a true bargain hunter.

Why would the holes be 1" higher?

Crestliner Seaman Resorter http://retrocrestliner.com/viewerphotospage77.htm

That boat is amazing.

I had a '56 and what you have looks older than that. It's not in any of the Fiberglassic pages. Interested in selling?

I took some 13/16" stainless bar stock and threaded 1 end with 3/8-16 external threads and drilled out the other end to a depth of 2.5 inches at the diameter of the spindle of the oar and I bolt these in place in the existing holes on the boat and that raises my oars up about 3 inches.

If perfection isn't an issue, drill the holes out to 3/16", throw a pop rivet in them and finish peening them down and smear some jb-weld over them.

Post pictures of the whole boat inside and out showing how the seats are and how they are attached. Include measurements like width at widest point, width at transom, length from transom to point.

"Had 3 boats in my yard - all gone - but now there's 4 more!"

I strongly advise against the use of poured foam in the bottom of the boat, UNLESS you can prevent the foam from going to the center bottom of the V. My Crestliner has poured in foam in the 2 side compartments and nothing down the center. The hull is still clean. EVERY boat that I've ever dealt...

The boat looks like it also spent a lot of time in the water, probably next to a dock. I'm also betting there was always enough water in the boat that the transom wood was always wet. If aluminum is always wet and there is just enough air flow, the aluminum will oxidize. I fixed a boat for a...

Not knowing what your boat is, try 2 smaller batteries. Deep Cycles come in at least 3 different sizes, maybe even 5 different sizes.

Here's what I did to a customer who had a short shaft boat but found a really good deal on a long shaft motor.

Yep, try re-bucking. But if they are sheared off and thin on the outside, you may need to replace. If you do, don't drill them out, simply grind off the mushroomed end on the inside and punch them out. Putting in solid rivets in a floor IS a 2-man job, though, so employ someone you trust with...

Whether you have it welded or re-enforced with a riveted patch, it should be .125" thick and span 4 inches to either side of the crack. Just welding in the crack will do nothing because a weld will have some porosity and porosity is how any metal breaks when bent. To save money, I would cut an 8...

Right in the keel. Plenty of thick metal to weld. I'd pay someone to weld it as well. They could build up a good bead and then feather it out with a sander afterwards.

3-sided u-channel can be strong enough at .062" thick. 2-sided L-channel I recommend .090" - .125". I wouldn't waste my time making my own channel when you can get it at a very reasonable price off speedymetals.com.

1" thick composite decking will be heavy. Not necessarily a bad thing, though. The problem would be the radiused edges and the seams you would end up with. Maybe take the time to table saw the radius off and then ship-lap them to create a more seamless job.