15' Mirrocraft Modified V John Boat Conversion

[Nussy]

I found this forum about a month ago and was immediately bitten by the Tin Boat Bug!!! Having never done anything like this in the past, I'm hoping I haven't gotten in over my head. My goal is to complete this through a long Wisconsin winter, and be done for Spring Walleye fishing. The main think I was looking for was something 14' or longer with at least a 48" bottom width. After searching long and hard through Craigslist, I stumbled on to my find. It's a little nicer than many I looked at but for the price I couldn't pass it up and it's probably good it wasn't too big a project.

The first think I'm planning to do is repaint it. because it had a slow leak I'm planning on using Steelflex(the teflon stuff) in black($130 with color, shipping and COD charges, About $45 more than the regular stuff). According to Jerry at Fasco, all I should need to do is rough up the current paint. I flipped the boat over and have started the prep work. I've removed the stickers, tranducer, and reach handles. Sanded down the sides. the question I have for the forum is the bottom is just bare aluminum currently. Should I just sand that down to get it some grip or should I apply an etching primer to it also? See Pic Sanding 3. :?:

 

[masterofillusion]

The only thing that sticks to aluminum is etch primer. You can buy it at an auto paint supply store. 50.00 a quart kit. That mixes 1 to 1 so you get 2 quarts total. I wouldn't trust the spray cans for that large of an area. Follow directions on the can, with steel flex over that, it will last.

 

[shizzy77]

I would scuff any surface you plan to paint.

 

[Nussy]

Well I was able to get a coat of etching primer(green stuff) on all the bare aluminum. Tough to find but finally found some at an auto parts store. About $6/can.

Followed that up with a coat of regular Rustoleum primer on the top half that I plan to paint. Not sure I needed it, but I figured I'd be safe and it only cost me about $5.

Also did a test sample of paint color I have in mind.....Red Metallic....let me know what you think...

Steelflex should be here tomorrow(black). Hoping to get get that done tomorrow night.

I'm thinking of spraying a coat of Clear Gloss Enamel over the paint to give it a little more shine and another protective layer. Anybody ever done it? Just wondering if it's a good idea or bad.

 

[Nussy]

Put the Steelflex on tonight. What a nightmare. If you are expecting the finished product to look like a good paint job, DON'T use it!!! I was more concerned with sealing the leaks and I think it will definitely do that!!! It goes on more like tar than paint. I'll try to post some pictures once it dries also.




But here's my recommendation if I had to do it again.

1. Go with the cheaper version. I went with the more expensive stuff because I thought with the Teflon it might go on easier. That's doubtful. Also with the regular version you can use multiple coats....not so with the Teflon version. (On my latest build I use the regular stuff. It's definitely the way to go)
2. Definitely work with a partner. I had a buddy mixing and pouring then going along with a foam brush over the rivets to make sure then were well covered. I followed behind with a 4 inch foam roller. 4" was a good size as it fit between the ribs really well.
3. EDIT!!! Put it on THIN!!!. with this build I put it on think and had sagging. On my new build I put it on thin and that was the ticket.
4. Get plenty of foam rollers. At least 10....you'll need to change them frequently from pushing this stuff around.
5. Get a metal mixing attachment for a cordless drill to mix it. This stuff is think and you want to make sure you mix it well.
6. Mix all the pigment with the hardener. Then mix equal parts resin & hardener. This will ensure a even color.
7. Use gloves and tape off very well. It seams to get on everything.
8. Is firms up fast but you have time to work with it. No need to rush. We mixed 4 cups at a time.
9. If I had to do it again. I wouldn't go as far up the sides. I would simply go 3-4 inches up off the bottom. That will leave more room for paint which no doubt will look nicer. The good news for me was that it covered another row of rivets.



This is the texture it turns out on the side. There is really do way to make it smooth. Has a Pebble Like Texture. Might be smoother if you did the boat on it's size.

 

[russ010]

looking good man - can't wait to see your progress

 

[Nussy]

Well I finally got the rest of the boat painted up. After much debate I decided to go with good old Rustoleum. I've not painted much and I figured it would be better screw up with cheap paint and do it over than to waste the expensive stuff. :LOL2: I did 4 light coats followed up with a 3 light coats Rustoleum Clear Coat. All Spray cans. The only mistake I made was doing it in my garage. It's pretty cold in WI this time of year and I wanted it to be heated to at least 70 when I did it. Unfortunately, I put down 2 drop cloths and that wasn't enough. I now have a Pink floor. Here's some pics, now on to the flooring. Will hopefully start that this week.

 

[russ010]

that's awesome... i'm trying to decide how I want to paint mine - one color, two tone, or camo... right now I"m leaning towards leaving it like it is, but I really need to paint it before I do any mods... I guess I should get my butt in gear

 

[jasper60103]

Very nice!

 

[Nussy]

that's awesome... i'm trying to decide how I want to paint mine - one color, two tone, or camo... right now I"m leaning towards leaving it like it is, but I really need to paint it before I do any mods... I guess I should get my butt in gear

I was surprised how easy the two tone came out. Just taped it off well and the lines came out great. I did it righ under the rib so that if it didn't turn out it would be hard to see. Only had a couple little hiccups where I had cut the steelflex back. Must not of cleaned it quite enough and the paint went on and got some little bubbles. Hard to notice unless you're right next to it however.

If I had to do it again I'd only run the Steelflex to the water line.

Good Luck.

 

[cyberflexx]

looking good.. keep the pics coming!

 

[CRAPPIE_SLAYER]

The 2 tone looks great! Keep them pics comming.

 

[WhiteMoose]

Your boat looks sharp. Good to see that a rattle can paint job can look so nice. Are you leaving the inside bare?

 

[Nussy]

Yeah it didn't turn out too bad. Not sure how durable it will be however. Got a couple good scratches when I flipped it upright....but I was in a hurry and did it about 24 hours after painting. Think the paint hadn't fully cured. I'll have to touch those up.

The inside was painted white and in pretty decent shape so I decided to keep it. Not to mention the entire boat will be decked down about 3-4 inches from the top, so you'd only see a little bit. Some of the bracing I'm using was already in place and I decided I didn't the top of the floor red and the underside white. Inside will get a new floor and storage compartments, and new carpeting as well as some other electrical upgrades. Should have more pics this weekend.

Stay tuned.

 

[Nussy]

So here's a few pics of the inside. Your basic modified V jon boat with a livewell on the left and storage on the right. I can't take credit for all the aluminum bracing but the previous owner did a great job with the framing. He had strengthened the transom(probably could run a 100 HP if needed) :lol: . He had also bent aluminum stock for all the framing and did a fantastic job. Too bad he didn't finish it off right. He had just layed in treated plywood loose on top. Nothing fit right and you'd have to open some compartments just to open doors on others. . On the way home one of the panels blew out of the boat. :shock:

And here's what I plan to do with it. Back battery will run lights, bilge, radio, and rear trolling motor for electric only lakes. Front battery will run bow mount trolling motor and depth finder. Center rod locker, Flip up footwell so I can sit low will under power, then close it up to fish on a flat deck. Onboard charger, and other misc storage.


Plan to use 3/4" plywood sealed with Thompson's water seal and Carpet from Cabelas. Still looking for ideas on where to get aluminum or stainless hinges and also any ideas on how to latch the hatch doors. Let me know if you have any ideas.

 

[Nussy]

Well got the wood deck all cut out and in place yesterday. Had my weight tester jumping around to make sure it was stable. :LOL2:


Also sanded down the glue on the decks where the old carpet was. Waiting for my carpet from cabelas and trying to find aluminum hinges. Sounds like piano hinges are the way to go from what I've read/seen. Any advice? Also does anyone know if you can cut piano hinges?

 

[Nussy]

Here's another view of the framing:

Battery on Upper left runs rear trolling motor, livewell, and all lights.
Battery on Lower Right runs bowmount and bow depth finder.
Onboard charger on lower left for both batteries
Rod Locker in the center
Small Square compartments center left is a flip hatch so I can sit lower while driving then close it to have a flat deck to fish from.
Switches on upper right as shown below

 

[1436delta]

NUSSY IT LOOKS LIKE YOU ARE COMING ALONG VERY WELL THAT BOAT LOOKS GREAT KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK =D>

 

[cathunter21]

I hope you dont mind me asking where will you put your feet when under power?

 

[Doug]

Progress is looking good, layout seems useful.