Hey guys Im new to the sight and have loved all the awesome mods people have been doing! Iv been looking for a solid aluminum boat to work on for a while now i was thinking more of a 14ft deep v but i just found a 16ft aluminum runabout on craigslist with a 75 hp 1976 Evenrude i paid $350 for boat motor and trailer! Ill keep everybody updated on the project!
TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
16ft 1960's Wards Sea King Runabout
- Thread starter walleye88
- Start date
Help Support TinBoats.net:
Hey guys Im new to the sight and have loved all the awesome mods people have been doing! Iv been looking for a solid aluminum boat to work on for a while now i was thinking more of a 14ft deep v but i just found a 16ft aluminum runabout on craigslist with a 75 hp 1976 Evenrude i paid $350 for boat motor and trailer! Ill keep everybody updated on the project!
lckstckn2smknbrls
Well-known member
Nice looking set up even upside down.
Put some solid work into the boat today and made some progress but i ran into two problems. The first problem was i Pulled the gas tank and it had a few pin rust holes in it the second problem was it has this weird like double pully system to connect the motor to the steering wheel... :shock: I have no idea what kind of kit or setup i need to get to replace the old rusted wires. If anybody has any information on it that would be greatly appreciated!! Other than that boat is in great condition and so is trailer and motor! Still cant believe i only paid $350 for it! 
BassFishVA
Active member
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2014
- Messages
- 31
- Reaction score
- 0
What a nice looking rig you got there and what an even better price! As far as stripping the hull angle grinder with a cup brush would work well, that is what I am currently using to strip mine. I am thinking about picking up some citri-strip from the store and trying that. As far as the motor pulleys I have no clue but there are plenty that will chime in. Good luck and make sure to post lots of pics. I plan on using the citri-strip this weekend so I will let you know how it works.
OutrageGIS
Well-known member
Great starting point! I would look into a new, modern teleflex steering system and a plastic gas tank for starters. If you are going to just remove the loose paint and repaint, I would suggest using the wire wheel method, but if you want to strip it clean look into the citrus stripper. Also look at your control box, cables and wires - they likely need some attention as well.
Put in some solid work today with the wire wheel on the trailer but I started trying to strip the paint on the boat with citristrip...
At first i thought it was going to work great! then after 3hr of waiting it only took one layer of paint off and was very messy #-o
so i put another layer on and took of one more layer of paint... i put on one last coat and am leaving it overnight! Hopefully it gets the rest off these photos are after the first coat came off! The citristrip did well on the top of the boat but the paint on the sides wasn't even touched.... Any recommendations on what i should do? Also i want to re paint the bottom of the inside of the boat! Has anybody ever coated the inside in truck bed liner? Thx for all the help!
At first i thought it was going to work great! then after 3hr of waiting it only took one layer of paint off and was very messy #-o
so i put another layer on and took of one more layer of paint... i put on one last coat and am leaving it overnight! Hopefully it gets the rest off these photos are after the first coat came off! The citristrip did well on the top of the boat but the paint on the sides wasn't even touched.... Any recommendations on what i should do? Also i want to re paint the bottom of the inside of the boat! Has anybody ever coated the inside in truck bed liner? Thx for all the help!
Attachments
OutrageGIS
Well-known member
Try putting a sheet of plastic on top of the stripper to allow it to work a few hours without drying out. I was referring to an angle grinder with wire wheel, works good to remove the top loose layers of paint. The teleflex is a jacketed single push/pull cable system instead of two open cables on pulleys. The key is measuring right since the length cannot be changed. Lots of info on the web about how to measure and install
Y_J
Well-known member
I just recently sprayed the inside bottom (below the floor line) with Automotive rubberized Undercoating. The same stuff that you car under carriage is sprayed with. My 12' boat needed 3 cans that I picked up at Walmart. So far, so good. Helps seal and quieten the bottom.walleye88 said:
Got more work done today! second coat of citristrip cleaned off the top of the boat and i finally got the motor off the boat and boat off the trailer! Then (with lots of help) got the boat flipped over and man was it heavy anyway we put a coat of citristrip all over the bottom of the boat and im going to let it sit over night and strip it in the am! Only problem i found today is i think im going to have to get a whole new throttle mecanism for the motor and i have no idea how much that will cost...... And i have to get a new gas tank #-o but i sold my old boat for $700 so that should help ease the sting... Any ideas on what to do about the trottle or gas tank?
the motor is a 1976 75hp evenrude electric start!!! Thx ill keep posting updates!
And i have to get a new gas tank #-o but i sold my old boat for $700 so that should help ease the sting... Any ideas on what to do about the trottle or gas tank? the motor is a 1976 75hp evenrude electric start!!! Thx ill keep posting updates!
Attachments
OutrageGIS
Well-known member
By throttle unit do you mean the control box or carb? If you need a new control box try ebay or craigslist or post a want ad here. I had to run/splice new wires into my 68 mercontrol box and lube the cables. You may need new cables if they are frozen in their housings, if you need new the length is critical, if you are changing the layout of the boat you may want to run them in a different path.
If you mean the carb usually just a disassembly and clean out will get you running, If she sat with fuel the jet(s) will be clogged, also look at the fuel pump, thin rubber membranes don't like to sit for years in gummy fuel.
If you mean the carb usually just a disassembly and clean out will get you running, If she sat with fuel the jet(s) will be clogged, also look at the fuel pump, thin rubber membranes don't like to sit for years in gummy fuel.
Would this be a good paint to paint the top of my boat with after i spray it with self etching automotive primer?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-International-Red-Gloss-Farm-Equipment-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-7466830/202436620?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-202436620-_-N
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-International-Red-Gloss-Farm-Equipment-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-7466830/202436620?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-202436620-_-N
So i just had a sudden change of plans! I have access to a paint gun and a air compressor so i want to paint the boat like that i know it will cost more but itll be worth it... :lol: only problem.... never used a paint gun before so when it comes to mixing thiner, paint, primer, and like hardener i have no idea what to do... #-o I have a $120 pain budget for the boat and i want to paint it a dark glossy cabelas green. If anybody can help me with mixtures or Just let me know what paint to use or better yet mixtures an everything that would be gteatly appreciated!!!! PLEASEEE HELPPP haha [-o<
OutrageGIS
Well-known member
I really like the enamel paints that Tractor Supply sells for tractors and implements. They also sell thinner and hardener (isocyanate) by the same brand. You will need to cut the well mixed paint with 20-30 percent thinner in order for it to spray properly, experiment until you like the pattern from the spray gun. The hardener will have instructions, seems like it was about 10 percent of volume when I did my boat. More hardener will make it set up faster but it also makes it brittle which is a problem on a flexible material like aluminum (stress cracks). Not using any hardener will make it take a few weeks to cure completely during which time the paint will be soft and vulnerable to being dissolved by spilled fuel. You can buy two or more colors and mix them if you don't find one you like. Be sure it is at least 75 degrees temp when you spray and won't get too cool at night, cool temps will make the paint spray badly and cure slowly.
lckstckn2smknbrls
Well-known member
If you spray and use the hardener you will need the proper personal safety equipment.
So i got lots of work done on the boat today! To start put another coat of citristrip on the boat scraped it off and buffed it with an old dish tag. Worked pretty well just a lot of elbow grease. Next i started working on the gastank it had a lot of old rust in it and had some pin sized rust holes in it but its a cool old gas tank and is built perfectly for the boat so i decided to try to save it instead of get a plastic one! So i filled the 18 gal gas tank with vinegar and baking soda and am letting it eat some of the rust if that works ill weld the holes and re paint! i had to tape over the holes so it would hold the vinegar but it all seemed to work so ill let everybody know! Only thing i need some advice on is when i stripped the paint most of the aluminum was nice and shiny but there were some weathered areas is there anyway i can polish it and make it nice and shiny again?
