1968 Crestliner tiger muskie, need opinions

[ericman]

I have a 1968 Crestliner tiger muskie, all-welded aluminum tri-hull. It was severely butchered as a parts boat but the hull and consoles are in excellent condition. It was an I/O, but the motor was junk. I want to get a swim platform outboard motor bracket and leave the back of the boat tall (34"). Also, Below is a picture of what type of boat I'm referring to and then a mock-up of what I have in mind for paint and a mock-up of how I want to do logo and striping. The thicker stripe will point to the front. I'm not trying for period correct restoration or anything, I just want it to be gnarly. I'm also thinking wakeboard tower and wrap-around bench seating. By not having a motor right at the back or a big splashwell in the way, the boat is huge inside.

All opinions will be greatly appreciated.

 

[earl60446]

Lots of potential there. What are you gonna do for the motor. That thing is begging for a bracket and outboard addition, the center console idea is good too.
Tim

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Aluminum Tri-hull, very nice.

 

[Johnny]

Is there any way you can contact the Crestliner engineers to see what the specs
are for the transom ? If you keep it as is and put a motor bracket
on the transom, it may or may not be structurally safe, depending on the HP.
In my mind, I am thinking that with the original I/O, there was very
little stress on the transom due to the motor bolted to the frame makes
sort of the anchor point for everything else.
It is just a thought. I helped my brother change out an I/O power plant for
an older Sea Ray and I was not at all impressed with the transom.
But, it was an all fiberglass boat. Your aluminum hull may be quite different.
Just a thought.
it WILL make for an awesome project !!!!

 

[HarryO60]

Interesting project..... I'm thinking that you'll have to reinforce the transom with at least as much support as a regular outboard transom would have. I'd do at least 1.5" of plywood either epoxied or resin coated and several knee braces bolted to the plywood and either welded or riveted to the hull structural supports. With the I/O gone you should have good access to the existing transom. The new outboard bracket would probably cover the transom where the outdrive was mounted.
How big of an outboard were you thinking about?

 

[ericman]

Yeah, I am fully aware of the extra support that will be needed. I'm doing 2 1/2" plywood and I plan on bracing it to the stringers at probably a 60 degree angle and use that angle as the back-rests for the rear portion of the seating. I'm not worried about getting it strong enough, just the cost of it. I priced out all the outboard motor brackets, and new is going to set me back $1100 minimum. I also designed one that I felt comfortable building and having it strong enough and then I priced out the materials and that alone was going to be $400+, never mind I know it would take a week of my spare time just to build the thing.

Center console. . . .No. I just used that profile picture to outline my paint idea.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[ProduceMan]

Nice find! An Armstrong full swim step bracket and that new lightweight Yammie F150. That thing would fly AND sip fuel!

 

[HarryO60]

Have you thought about using a hydraulic jack plate instead of a bracket?

 

[ericman]

Have you thought about using a hydraulic jack plate instead of a bracket?

Like I said. The back of the boat is 34" tall, it used to be an I/O. I need to have more setback to be able to trim the motor up and down.

 

[HarryO60]

DUH my bad I must have been thinking with my left brain.....lol
I did see an ad in Delaware Craig's List for brackets that seemed reasonably priced. Might be worth checking out

 

[ericman]

DUH my bad I must have been thinking with my left brain.....lol
I did see an ad in Delaware Craig's List for brackets that seemed reasonably priced. Might be worth checking out

Thanks, but that's just another business selling new stuff. Pretty steep pricing for now. Maybe I'll save up for one.