1974 14' Mirro Craft-Update #5 She's Done


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Jun 24, 2015
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Hey Guys! I've been a long time "looker" on this forum over the years. Even made a name on here with a 12' boat but never ended up doing the project, renting a 14' Lund for the last 4 summers I had to find something for next season. I fish 2-4 weeks every year on smaller lakes in Northern Ontario so a 16'+ wasn't needed as I've been very comfortable in the 14' Lund WC just the 9.9 4-stroke Yamaha has always been the culprit for slow speed although reliable I told myself if I got a boat I would have double the hp or more.

A week or 2 ago a good friend of mine hooked me up on a sweet deal. It's a older Mirro Craft 14' Aluminum Boat. Has a decent trailer and a mid 80's I'm guessing Evinrude 20hp 2-stroke. Wish I can figure out the year of the boat by the name plate but it's work off and just shows the 35hp max where it was built etc.

Here are some pictures, the boat was bought under the impression I had to replace all the wood and carpet in the boat. So in March 2016 when the snow is gone I'll empty the boat out, re-make the floors and deck etc. My idea is to make the side compartment 15-17" wide on the top with the same height. Right now it barely holds 3 rods at 7 or 8" wide so growing that compartment will be job number 1. Then moving the passenger seat more to the middle of the boat. I will counter act the weight by probable storing both my battery's and gas on the right side of the boat. Well half to play with the weight balance on the water.

So after fixing the side box I want to play with the casting deck. It's ridiculously low for my liking and I don't want to stand on the top of the boat so a generous 6-8" rise of the front deck, pushing the oversized bow box back too making it just big enough for a trolling motor and fish finder. One compartment door in the deck, bow box, and side box.

I'm under the impression the main floor is sitting on layers of styrofoam so I'll have to borrow ideas on how to make the deck structure. I've seen lot's of great reno's on here if you guys think one hits the spot please share below. I know nothing about wood but have been told not to cheap out and go all out and buy Marine Grade Plywood(3/4" for my deck and main floor) I'll probably go 1/2" on the bow box and side box. About the framing what wood/cut's do you guys recommend? I see what looks like thinner 2x2 framing and I've also seen bigger 2x4 framing.

The boat will have 2 guys under 200lbs in it with the odd "boat ride" with 3-4 people. My extra 2 passengers will sit on the deck and side bow box I hope.

I forgot to add this is my first boat! Very excited!

My dad ripping the little 30lb Motor Guide off the front.

Not the best picture but this boat does not have a Mirro Craft decal rather a hard plastic logo at the rear.

Inside shot, pedestals are solid and swivel bases work fine. Some new paint and they will be perfect. Seats have no rips so again some elbow grease and I got my seating taken care of already! Bow box is too big and comes down on a angle where I want a 90degree flat front on it with the triangular top.

From front to back, with some adjustments the side box should be able to take a pair of straps to hold my rods down as well as work as a tackle storage box. Just needs to be brought out more in width.

Bow needs a good clean up

The back of the boat. Kind of like the little top over the past gas tank and mini lid over the drain plug. I'd like to cut out the other side too for a bilge pump.

All cleaned out ready for storage this fall/winter

I'd like to know how all the rain water will find it's way under the flooring. Do you guys drill holes or cut notches out on the sides of your flooring? Anyway that's it for now as far as pictures. Trailer needs some paint and sanding, new winch maybe too. The motor has sat for 6 years. Needs the carb drained, good news is it turned over and we sprayed some oil in the cylinders gears aren't locked up might run it in the yard before fall do a good winterizing on it and be done.

My questions are spread throughout the post but please all advice welcome just ain't going to change my layout that's all. It's getting the building materials done right that is my main goal!

Cheers guys,

Nice score! Kind of looks like a Big Fisherman or Deep Fisherman model. Is there a HID tag on the upper right outside of the transom?

Transom board still looks solid which would be a plus.

ACX or BCX ply will work just fine and 3/4" will work though I have used 5/8" in a Lund S14 DLX and also in the Sea Nymph 144 Pike Attacker that I'm rebuilding now. I find it just as sturdy and quite a bit lighter in over-all weight.

As for sealing the plywood I have been using a Formula that was recommended on another site that I have found works very well and is very cost effective. It's one part Mineral Spirits, one part Boiled Linseed oil and two parts Spar Urethane. Then 2 to 3 coats of straight Spar.

I haven't done any work on a Mirro yet but from what I've seen on others there is not a lot of space under the main decking. Also with whatever foam you plan on adding under the decking be sure to leave a channel down the center to allow water to drain.

When you get to replacing the carpet I have used the stuff that Cabelas carries with good results. I used and will be using again their Deluxe brand. It is 12oz per yard and is still plush enough that I didn't see bare spots when I folded it over to wrap. At 12oz it also doesn't hold a lot of water and dries quickly. I find it the best value for the money.

Good luck, enjoy and I'll watch for updates!
Very much welcomed and BTW Welcome to the Dry Dock.

Regarding your question on drainage. No need to drill holes in the deck. As long as you keep it sored with the bow high the water will run off the decking and to the back. When you re-deck this you might want to consider opening up the stern a little more around the bilge plug. That way you can wash or vacuum out whatever gets washed back there a bit easier. Also allows for some air to circulate under the decking and dry out.

Here is a link to my Sea Nymph project.
Boat was covered for winter yesterday. Going to take the engine off next week and get it to a good mechanic at a local marina. Needs carb drained, new plugs, oil, just a full clean and service. Decided to keep the engine in our basement for it's winters from here on out. No more -30 degree's celsius. Work will start in early to late March guys. Going to first take care of my pedestals with some sanding and paint, get the seat's cleaned up also so I'll post pictures as I buy my supplies and toys for the boat. Minn Kota and Humminbird will be seeing me soon :D
Too bad you don't have a garage to put it in and then have it ready for the spring fish run.

I do most of my own repair work on my outboards. The items you mention are all simple jobs that I think you could do yourself. The carb on these engines are very simple and easy to work on.

After I found my Sea Nymph I was able to find 4 complete Springfield bases, pedestals and seat mounts on craigslist for $90.00 They are in great condition and my intention is to use 3 of them. 2 side-by-side at the helm and one in the bow while only carrying 2 seats most of the time. This way while fishing I can move one seat to the front or if going with 3 people I can add in the 3rd seat.

I see in your pictures that you seats are mounted up on an extra block are you going to do it the same way?
Yea no garage so work will half to wait until late winter/early spring. I was out today and got some prices on a new trailer coupler, winch, winch strap and safety chains...lot's more to get.

About the seat bases I think I'll do the same thing, perhaps squared out and sized the same as the pedestal's square bottom. 3/4" plywood might do a square of 1/2" on the top. Should have some scraps from my side box and bow box in the 1/2" plywood.
Spring has arrived and I finally put the first couple hours of work into the boat. My dad will be doing the rest of the interior clean up while I'll be working over the next 2 weeks. Got 80% of it done now we just need to scrape the spray foam off the sides of the boat as well as pull up the remaining foam that was glued down to the floor of the boat. The plan is to get the inside of the boat as clean as it can be. Might do light sanding on the sides as there is glue in spots stuck to the aluminum. I don't think I'll be painting the boat until end of summer or perhaps next spring. Don't care much right now for the cosmetic part just want it built and strong and safe.

Trailer is being worked on also so well take pictures when the sanding and painting starts. We have all the parts now, new lights, winch, coupling etc.. The biggest dilemma I've come across in this project is what to put over the Marine Grade 15mm wood I'm building the boat floor and deck with. I've explored fibreglassing, marine carpet, marine vinyls and although not set in stone I have talked with some guys at Line-X and think the end result will be the bedliner spray over the wood, it should give me the easy to clean/0 maintenance i want. I never sit on the floor just standing all day so the bedliner might be the way to go. I can build my boat drop it off and pick it up sprayed and done. The finished product will be a lite gray Line-X so it won't be hot to the touch.

Anyway 2 weeks well buy our 3 sheets of wood, some 2x2's for framing under the floor and lot's of hardware...jb weld to fix some holes from screws and such on the boat. Good thing is all my little stuff is here, graph, trolling motor, lights, ropes etc...just down to the rest of the building materials and some April time off.

On with the updated pictures
The carpet wrapped styrofoam sides also has a hint of wood paneling on them...like from your 70's basement i think haha.

Back corner where the gas tank use to be. Gas will be in other corner where this corner will take shape into a small cabinet with no door...slide the battery in, ill put a divider in the cabinet for my safety kit and such on the other side. Fish finder on the top and this will reduce the space that was taken up with the full length cabinet. Giving me a full dance floor in the back, room for tackle bags and my portable livewell. Hoping to pull the casting deck back another foot for added room and perhaps a spot to strap my rods down.

Back dance floor was supported with nothing but rock solid spray....

Removed the wood here is the mess. Buddy before me left no room for water to pass under the floor.

Left the boat a little cleaner but here is the last picture for now. Boat has a very deep front end should be perfect for the casting deck. Next trip well get the hose out and do some more "cleaning"

Thanks for following guys! Another update in less than 2 weeks!

Good morning guys. Got some more of the reno done last week. I'll let the pics do the explaining. Basically I have paint on the inside walls of the boat now, trailer has some paint on it and now boat will be sanded and painted on the outside. I'm hoping start of May to have my marine plywood and 2x2's for framing under the floor.

Peeling up the old foam floor. Previous owner left no space for water travel so foam was super heavy and saturated with water.

Next step if vigorous scraping and sanding. Floor's I'm only cleaning up not prepping for paint as I'll never see the floor under my wood/vinyl. Might as well save a few bucks on paint where I can.

Back of the boat.

Trailer after it lost a layer of paint.

Took these pic's right after finishing the first coat on the inside of the boat. Suppose to be a light gray, trailer will be done in white same with the outside of the boat. Hoping for decent weather again this week. I did a spray on the inside waited a hour till it wasn't tacky then did another coat and it looked great to me...Anyway hopefully it will last, it's paint/primer aluminum metal and rust paint. Regardless looks better than before!

Prior to painting we hosed the boat out real well. Found out it only leaks where the transducer screw is so that will be a easy fix. No loose rivets or problems. My boat after emailing Mirro Craft is a 1974 Deep Fisherman model. Kinda cool to know that this boat was made well before me :p

Update #3 will be mid week this week!

Your boat looks great.
Marine plywood will rot as easily as any other plywood if not sealed properly. What makes marine plywood special is it is made from higher quality plies with no voids and water proof glues. You can use exterior grade plywood, it might have a some voids in the inner plies but shouldn't be a issue and is made with the same waterproof glues and when properly sealed will last for decades.
And save lots of money.
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Your boat looks great.
Marine plywood will rot as easily as any other plywood if not sealed properly. What makes marine plywood special is it is made from higher quality plies with no voids and water proof glues. You can use exterior grade plywood, it might have a some voids in the inner plies but shouldn't be a issue and is made with the same waterproof glues and when properly sealed will last for decades.
And save lots of money.

Hey thanks for posting. I was going to get exterior mahogany and seal it with Thompsons Waterproofer in Clear. Will the vinyl cement still work fine on the wood with the sealer in it? I thought the marine would save this trouble so perhaps going back to exterior is the way to go. Not up for mixing a bunch of stuff together. Hope that Thompsons Waterproofer works did a nice job on my piece of wood for the transducer to screw into.

Was going to use the marine grade dry so if I need to seal it still I hope the vinyl cement adhesive will work. Here is the link if you dont mind checking it out, I didn't find anything that says wood needs to be dry so it should work.


The sealer I would recommend is called the "Old Timers Formula".
It's 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1 part Spar varnish or Spar urethane and 2 parts Mineral Spirts. Then 2 coats of straight Spar.
Then a coat of paint if you need it to match something.
Hello again guys! Finally finished up the painting and cosmetic work on the boat. Just need to put the boat #s on and the fun details like electronics and such. Next week we will cut the wood for the floors, cut our framing etc and hopefully the following day wrap and glue the vinyl down on everything. Boat came out great in my eyes, looks nice and white has some shine to it. Trailer is nearly finished now. Going to put some tire shine on the wheels, install the new LED light kit and finish it off with a new coupling on the front.

Trailer isn't factory perfect but looks pretty good now that it has been sanded and painted. Going to to replace the bow roller first and well do the others as they need to be replaced. Anyway on with some pictures! Next week there will be some cool changes can't wait to get the saw's out.

Trailer (still wet) but mostly complete.

Package came with a new pair of fenders, quick spray paint to match the white and on they go. Rims were cleaned and painted also...My Uncle has been with me on this since day 1 so the trailer has been his job haha. He did fine can't be happier.

Another picture

Inside of the boat got a 2nd coat. Painted the back wood seems very solid still. I don't know it's ply wood so might replace it with something fancy in a year or two.

Took the sheet of aluminum the boat came with on the bow and cut it down by hand with the hacksaw. Just wanted to make it a hair smaller took 5" off of it. And another shot of the paint on the side wall.

Outside of the boat. (Gloss White Outside/Lite Gray Inside)

Ready for bass, tackle and some fisherman! Can't wait to "build" the boat next week.

Thanks for following guys!

Lot's has happened since the painting. My framing was put in we took as much foam as we had and filled gaps and spaces with it. The main floor is vinyled and screwed down into the framework. Feels very solid this boat. Our casting deck has been cut and placed on the framing. Next week I need to put the face pieces on the casting deck, keeping the middle open so I can slide some stuff under the deck for storage like boat bumpers, net, paddles, rain gear etc. Then we need to install the seat pedestals, build my cabinet for the back right corner of the boat, this will hold the graph and another spot for some storage then we add the "jewelry" like the trolling motor, bilge pump, etc. Used the Nautolex in Shark Gray. What a wonderful product to work with. Praying my 1/2 container of cement is ok opened yet sealed in the garage for 4 days. Still have more pieces to glue down.

Framing was Western Red Cedar 2x2's. I let my dad run with it as he seemed to enjoy doing it. He put braces across every rib measured to the height we wanted the floor to be at. Then we later supported these vertically. Everything was tacked into the ribs with small self tappers. Didn't drill a hole through the boat thankfully. We then waterproofed the framing let it dry for a week then yesterday I got the foam put in, everything 1" off the bottom of the boat. We opted for the Exterior 1/2" Mahogany plywood and waterproofed it twice.

Dad's Framework

Main floor. Cement doing it's job for a few minutes before we flip the sheet and did the edging.

Well that dried I filled the gaps as best I could with styrophone. Left space under it for water travel but this snugged up nice. And best part it was free.

View off the deck. Still needs the trim added for the sides ontop of the deck as with the main floor's trim will be installed this week.

Deck height isn't crazy but is perfect for what I want to store under it.

Finishing touches to come next week!


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