1980 35hp Evinrude Motor Mods?

[Johny25]

Yes that is the correct reverse tilt lock part for your motor. And your second post confused me because you didn't specify what other parts you are missing. And the link just went to evinrudeshop.com?

Here is the thrust pin you need...... Part #24 and you may need part #75 also?
https://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/EVINRUDE/1980/E35TLESM/EXHAUST%20HOUSING%20-%2035/parts.html


Boats.net is usually the cheapest part vendor but I buy from Marine engine.com sometimes when I need a part fast because they ship out of Seattle.

 

[jasper60103]

...

Hey Jasper How is the prop situation coming?

Hey, Johny.
Yea, I haven't tried the other prop yet.
I did check my setup and the motor cav plate
is 7/8" below the boat.
So, I guess it could be raised a little.

edit: Oh, I checked my compression and its a 120# on both cylinders.
So, I'm pretty siked about that!

Sorry, Mike. Didn't mean to hijack your thread.

 

[Johny25]

Thats my fault.... I should have PM you Jasper lol....... Which I just did to keep his thread on course. Sorry mjw

 

[mjw210]

Hey I don't mind because I will still learn something. How far below the boat should the cav plate be? I think mineis flush with the bottom of the boat. Is that too high? Could than cause a cooling issue?

 

[Johny25]

Flush is great if your prop doesn't cavitate. As long as your water pickup screens are under the water and your prop ain't slipping all is good. The less motor you have in the water equals less drag and better performance. But there is a fine line where it starts going in the other direction if it is too high. The water rises up as it comes off the back of the boat when your running as it try's to replace the water the boat displaced. There is a formula for how much it comes up at what distance and speed but I can't remember what it is. If you can run with your plate flush with the boat then do so. I for some reason can not do this on my boat without prop blowout

 

[mjw210]

Got a call this morning from the machine shop.... Block is done (0.02" over) but their dealer is out of those pistons. I replied maybe if you didn't take a week and a half to bore the cylinders your supplier wouldn't be out of stock. They checked to see if they had them in stock when I dropped it off and they said they had plenty. He told me it would be 3 weeks to get pistons and I said go fly a kite. I told him I'll find them online and you can fit them and check tolerences when I get them. Well less than 15 minutes I had them on order. Might be here by the end of the week and could reassemble it this weekend.

 

[jasper60103]

Got a call this morning from the machine shop.... Block is done (0.02" over) but their dealer is out of those pistons. I replied maybe if you didn't take a week and a half to bore the cylinders your supplier wouldn't be out of stock. They checked to see if they had them in stock when I dropped it off and they said they had plenty. He told me it would be 3 weeks to get pistons and I said go fly a kite. I told him I'll find them online and you can fit them and check tolerences when I get them. Well less than 15 minutes I had them on order. Might be here by the end of the week and could reassemble it this weekend.

Bummer. There was a similar situation recently on iboats. The shop over bored this guys engine and later found out pistons that size were unavailable. The shop offered to refund his money. What good would that do him? Fortunately, someone was able to locate some pistons for him.

Anywho, sounds like you got a handle on things. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

 

[shawnfish]

Hey I don't mind because I will still learn something. How far below the boat should the cav plate be? I think mineis flush with the bottom of the boat. Is that too high? Could than cause a cooling issue?

some boat/motor combos will allow you to even run with the plate an inch or so above the hull, mine being one of them. i added a peice of aluminum square stock(solid) about a foot long making my plate an inch and 3/8 above the hull. mechanic at my marina told me some can be above the hull to to get a slight performance increase, seemed like it made me plane a bit quicker but thats about all i noticed...

 

[mjw210]

I have a question about doing the water pump... It says to use an adhesive and a gasket sealer in the instructions. I have the Permatex aviation stuff in a canister and OMC Gel Seal II. What should I use? I forgot about the water pump install. But, it won't take long to do that since everythings apart. Just want to be certain I use the correct stuff.

 

[jasper60103]

I have a question about doing the water pump... It says to use an adhesive and a gasket sealer in the instructions. I have the Permatex aviation stuff in a canister and OMC Gel Seal II. What should I use? I forgot about the water pump install. But, it won't take long to do that since everythings apart. Just want to be certain I use the correct stuff.

Yea, I've used the permatex aviation sealer on water pumps and it seems to work fine.

 

[mjw210]

I was just confused because it mentioned using a gasket adhesive and also a sealer.

 

[mjw210]

Well I got the pistons and block back. Going to polish the exhaust ports and re-wash the block. My kids wore me out today... I ran into an issue though. I got the retaining ring off the crankshaft but the bearing is stuck! What's the point of the retaining ring if the bearing is pressed on?!? I did however find my electrical pin tool and got the new harness hooked up. The new evinrude paint is beautiful! Too bad I only have the water inlet screens painted lol.

 

[mjw210]

Well that was enough for tonight... Polished the exhaust ports and sanded down the cast lines on the exhaust part of the block. Prepped the lower unit to be painted. Tried getting the bearing off the crackshaft with no luck again...

 

[Lil' Blue Rude]

Don't buy boyseens. They say they fray quick and don't seal the best. Buy some Chris Carson reeds great reed great guy.
The exaust wouldn't need to be round. It could be sqaure. The big diffrence between the 9.9 and the 15 is the 15 tapers out at the end. Thats the tuned part of the exhaust. Sqaure or round just as long as it flares. You'll have to play with the length and size at the end. Shorter normally has topend where longer has more bottom end. If you build an exhaust you'll need to rejet the carb or risk leaning the motor out to much.
You want the intake as smooth as possible. Not meaning polsihed but you want no edges to slow down air flow. Heard of guys bending the reeds stops open and gaining rpms but on if your running fiber reeds just in case one breaks it will get chewed up and spit out unlike a broken steel reed. The exaust side can be polished to a mirror.

 

[mjw210]

Thanks for the tips! I just read in the service manual you need a puller for the lower crank bearing. Looks like I will be borrowing the right one.

 

[Johny25]

Sorry, been fishing a lot lately ...... interesting comment on the boyesen reeds, I will have to look into the Carson reeds also and see what the hype is about. Gives me something else to research before doing my overhaul this winter.

I believe the round exhaust will be better for air flow than the square even if both are tapered to the same specs. Just my opinion since I do not have a laboratory to test this theory.....but makes sense to me. It may be harder to fit a round pipe in the squarish style exhaust housing though?

 

[mjw210]

Well everything is coming along well. Powerhead is assembled and painted. I just took the rest of the motor off the transom to paint it and figure out what reverse lock stuff I'm missing. Turns out I'm missin everything! If I added everything up correctly it will be just over $130 for the reverse locking parts! Anyone know of a junkyard that might have what I need?

Speaking of paint.... factory stuff looks amazing! Would you recommend putting a clear coat on? Decals are on there way!

 

[Johny25]

Yes clear coat is a must to help protect your paint job. I have even put marine spar on my motor's before. But the spar will yellow it a little so stick with the clear.

I know there are marine salvage yards but I am not familiar with where they are. Not anywhere near me I know....lol. Those reverse lock parts are expensive I know.

 

[mjw210]

Is there a paticular clear coat that holds up better to the heat and water exposure? I'm in freshwater only. Would you even clear coat the powerhead? I just cleaned up the last part tonight at work. Tomorrow I will paint it. I should look for some clear coat tomorrow as well.

 

[Johny25]

I have never cleared the powerdhead and I suspect it wouldn't last given the temps that it would receive. I think auto clear coat would be fine. I know the spar varnish I got was heat resistant and water resistant, that is why I went with that. But like I said it yellowed my oyster white paint job a little even though it is hard to see in the pics or from 10ft away for that matter. Only up close can you see the yellowing. It has held up very well.