1980 35hp Evinrude Motor Mods?

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mjw210 said:
... Anyone know of a junkyard that might have what I need?

...


I would check the salvage yards posted on iBoats.
I heard good things about timsoutboards and they're in Minnesota and deliver.

https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=438822
 
https://stores.nextag.com/store/4798097/product/949443327/McCloskey-Man-O-War

Is it something like this? Was yours in a spray can? I do have some auto clear coat already but, I want to make sure it's going to last and look nice after being heated and in the water.

I emailed tcoutboards since they're somewhat local. Hopefully they have the parts I need to be able to go backwards without the motor flipping up lol! How embarassing...
 
Yep that is the stuff I used in a can.... I have the green can though, which is satin finish I believe. It says "for wood and other surfaces" on the back of the can. If you have auto clear already then I would just go with that. I believe it will last just as long and is just as good as the spar (maybe even better?).

Tie a rope or ratchet strap around your exhaust housing back to your transom pin/slots to keep the motor from lifting up until you get the parts. Otherwise you may crash your boat when landing at the dock when you throw it into reverse and the motor fly's up and the boat just continues going forward until it smashes the dock #-o
 
PM me, i know a place that most likely has any part you need(used)..ive dealt with them and their parts are in great if not like new condition and very cheap compared to new...
 
Alright guys I'm hung up... Is there a gasket that I'm missing in between the lower unit and exhaust housing?

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1980&hp=35&model=E35ELCSM&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Gearcase+-+35

Thanks again Shawn for helping me find the parts I'm missing. I really appreciate your help!
 
Nope no gasket needed there. I sand mine down with a block sander 220 grit just so it is a clean mate when I put it back together.
 
Awesome! Maybe. I will go back outside after the movie we're watching. Would it hurt anything to put the gel seal II on since its a metal to metal sealer.
 
It doesn't hurt it but it will be a mess to clean off next time you drop the lower. I have used marine grade silicone on mine before and then the next time I took it off I thought "wish I wouldn't have done that" :lol:
 
Thought I would give you guys a visual update on how things are going. I uploaded a lot more pictures of the rebuilding/assembly process on my photobucket. I have the lower unit on now and already sprayed the lower cowl, exhaust housing, brackets, and lower unit with clear coat. I didn't get the powerhead put on but that shouldn't take long. I forgot to add a decal on the bottom of the exhaust housing so I have to respray the clear coat which isn't a big deal but, I didn't want to make anymore mistakes tonight I called it quits.

https://s1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/

Thanks again Shawn for getting a me a good deal on the reverse locking assembly! Can't wait to get it in the mail. I might have just enough paint. I wish I would have ordered 5 cans of Evinrude paint like my instinct was telling me but, I did 4. Now I will have enough for the reverse assembly but not the top of the hood/upper cowl. Lesson learned 8) Oh well I plan on finishing the hood in the winter since I want to bondo and sand it nice and smooth.
 
mjw210 said:
Thought I would give you guys a visual update on how things are going. I uploaded a lot more pictures of the rebuilding/assembly process on my photobucket. I have the lower unit on now and already sprayed the lower cowl, exhaust housing, brackets, and lower unit with clear coat. I didn't get the powerhead put on but that shouldn't take long. I forgot to add a decal on the bottom of the exhaust housing so I have to respray the clear coat which isn't a big deal but, I didn't want to make anymore mistakes tonight I called it quits.

https://s1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/

Thanks again Shawn for getting a me a good deal on the reverse locking assembly! Can't wait to get it in the mail. I might have just enough paint. I wish I would have ordered 5 cans of Evinrude paint like my instinct was telling me but, I did 4. Now I will have enough for the reverse assembly but not the top of the hood/upper cowl. Lesson learned 8) Oh well I plan on finishing the hood in the winter since I want to bondo and sand it nice and smooth.


no problem mike, happy to help. that motor is looking sweet!!! was your flywheel hard as hell to get off? just wondering cuz ive been at mine for days with no luck! lol! and theyre the same motors for the most part J25RCSA
 
mjw210 said:
Thought I would give you guys a visual update on how things are going. I uploaded a lot more pictures of the rebuilding/assembly process on my photobucket. I have the lower unit on now and already sprayed the lower cowl, exhaust housing, brackets, and lower unit with clear coat. I didn't get the powerhead put on but that shouldn't take long. I forgot to add a decal on the bottom of the exhaust housing so I have to respray the clear coat which isn't a big deal but, I didn't want to make anymore mistakes tonight I called it quits.

https://s1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/

Thanks again Shawn for getting a me a good deal on the reverse locking assembly! Can't wait to get it in the mail. I might have just enough paint. I wish I would have ordered 5 cans of Evinrude paint like my instinct was telling me but, I did 4. Now I will have enough for the reverse assembly but not the top of the hood/upper cowl. Lesson learned 8) Oh well I plan on finishing the hood in the winter since I want to bondo and sand it nice and smooth.

She's looking sharp, Mike.
Great job! =D>
Thanks for sharing.
 
Yes Shawn that thing scared me big time! I had a puller on it with some tension and just sprayed it down with penetrating oil. Left it alone with tension on it and came back awhile later 30 to 60 minutes. Tried a little more tension and more spray. And repeated several more times for mine to pop off. I used a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller that I bought from Autozone. And a must, use only Grade 8 1/4-20 bolts. If you use anything weaker you run the risk of the breaking since it's a lot of tension on them.
 
mjw210 said:
Yes Shawn that thing scared me big time! I had a puller on it with some tension and just sprayed it down with penetrating oil. Left it alone with tension on it and came back awhile later 30 to 60 minutes. Tried a little more tension and more spray. And repeated several more times for mine to pop off. I used a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller that I bought from Autozone. And a must, use only Grade 8 1/4-20 bolts. If you use anything weaker you run the risk of the breaking since it's a lot of tension on them.


ive done the same thing, overnight tension,lube, tapped etc... and nada! lol! i made my puller out of a bearing puller and some handy Mcguyver work and that damm thing does not wanna come off, ive tightened it so much that i cant go no more tighter and its been like that since yesterday around noon....pissin me off because of a 3 dollar peice of plastic it wont start and i have to bank it! wich is like a heroin junky having to use methadone, he still wants the H but but at least he's not sick lol!

oh and sorry man i wont post no more about my flywheel and hijack ur thread... #-o
 
Nice slide show :D Did you buy a complete rebuild kit mj or did you just buy the parts individually off a website? Can't wait until you get her fired up and running. You will have to run a compression test when your done and post some numbers.
 
I bought most off of marineengine.com since I could get Evinrude brand parts. I bought a couple things from iboats.com The paint is from evinrude.com
Just ordered another can of paint and some fogging spray today. I ordered the piston kits from seilermarine.com

I actually have to return a few things since the powerhead gasket kit included some seals and o-rings that weren't listed. I just hope this thing has good compression and doesn't have any issues. I'll keep taking pictures until it's done.
 
A lot of gasket kits and carb rebuild kits come with extra O-rings and gaskets because the kits are designed to cover a wide range of motor years and some years have little subtle differences like an O-ring or gasket shape.

Boats.net is one of the best priced parts places. But I use Marine engine a lot also because they ship out of Seattle which is 3 days faster than boats.net.

Was curious how much in parts did you roughly spend on the rebuild? Did you put new wrist pins and all in, or just rings and pistons?

I would think you should have 120-130 compression readings with an electric start (full charge battery) after the rebuild. And anything above that would be awesome. I am only at 105 with my electric start but I am sure my crank case is leaking out the side, that is why a rebuild or powerhead swap is coming this winter. Got an 85' 30hp powerhead ropestart with 112 in each cylinder that will likely be put on my 88' and then I will fully rebuild the other motor at my leisure.
 
I have all my slips still. After everything is returned and finished I will look at them but, I know it's up there... Still way cheaper, more fun, and very educational than buying a new $6k motor. Now I know this thing in and out and it should last a long time. Plus it looks purdy :D Sounds like my reverse lock assembly is on its way! Thanks again Shawn for all the help with locating cheaper used parts. I still need to get new spark plugs...

The piston kits from seilermarine.com came with pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips for $90 per kit. And I needed two since I bored both cylinders just so they'd be the same. $180 for pistons and $170 for cylinder boring. I got all new needle bearings for the wrist pins and connecting rods and they don't give them away cheap. $80 in paint/clear coat. $50 in new decals. $160 for electrical harness and spacer tube (mine was melted). And there's a couple more invoices that is probably another $400 or so total. I know it's over a grand but, I could have cheaped out and just fixed it and left everything else. But, that's not how I like to do things. I like to fix things right and that way I know I won't have to worry about it for a long time. I spent about $200 in cosmetics of the motor so I could have easily fixed it cheaper. I just felt like going the extra mile and take a little pride in it. I didn't have to pay for my boat/trailer/motor (Mom gave it to me since they never used it.) Just about $1500 into the boat refinishing and of course my Hummingbird 597ci fish finder. I know someone at Minnkota so I paid the employee price on that bad boy. $500 for a $1000 unit. That's a no brainer. So after it's all said and done I will have a newly refinished boat and motor for approximately $3000 and I would imagine I it would sell for more than that. I don't plan on selling it though. I want to enjoy it for many years.
 
mjw210 said:
I have all my slips still. After everything is returned and finished I will look at them but, I know it's up there... Still way cheaper, more fun, and very educational than buying a new $6k motor. Now I know this thing in and out and it should last a long time. Plus it looks purdy :D Sounds like my reverse lock assembly is on its way! Thanks again Shawn for all the help with locating cheaper used parts. I still need to get new spark plugs...

The piston kits from seilermarine.com came with pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips for $90 per kit. And I needed two since I bored both cylinders just so they'd be the same. $180 for pistons and $170 for cylinder boring. I got all new needle bearings for the wrist pins and connecting rods and they don't give them away cheap. $80 in paint/clear coat. $50 in new decals. $160 for electrical harness and spacer tube (mine was melted). And there's a couple more invoices that is probably another $400 or so total. I know it's over a grand but, I could have cheaped out and just fixed it and left everything else. But, that's not how I like to do things. I like to fix things right and that way I know I won't have to worry about it for a long time. I spent about $200 in cosmetics of the motor so I could have easily fixed it cheaper. I just felt like going the extra mile and take a little pride in it. I didn't have to pay for my boat/trailer/motor (Mom gave it to me since they never used it.) Just about $1500 into the boat refinishing and of course my Hummingbird 597ci fish finder. I know someone at Minnkota so I paid the employee price on that bad boy. $500 for a $1000 unit. That's a no brainer. So after it's all said and done I will have a newly refinished boat and motor for approximately $3000 and I would imagine I it would sell for more than that. I don't plan on selling it though. I want to enjoy it for many years.

thats awesome mike, i gotta say i like your style and rebuilding that motor the way you did it will last forever and yeah you spent some money but saved a ton for sure. its an awesome feeling when you take the time to do something the right way. lets see some pics of your boat. what do ya have? and it was no problem what so ever helping ya with the parts i was more than happy to help ya and now if u need any parts you know where to find them although i dont think you will need them with your rude being basicly brand new!!!! good job man!
 
Well guys I have good news and something else that worries me...
Top Cylinder: 113psi
Bottom Cylinder: 113psi
The rebuild is complete other than refinishing the hood. I got fresh gas and oil mix for it. The book says 50:1 for breaking it in. Is that right?

New pics were uploaded to my photo bucket.
 
Oh yeah the issue I have is that frost plug near the fuel pump on the side of the block. I took a close up pic of it to show the slight dripping from the plug. Can I just tap it to reseat it? I never touched the plug. And yes I know its not a frost plug... I'm just worried it will get worse and have a big failure.
 
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