1980 Lowe 16'x48" upgrade

[jjaayy]

Hello. My name is Jim. I am new to the site also. I have a boat identical to this. I also need to replace the transom and was wondering how hard a job it is. So if gotmuddy or anyone else knows could you let me know. On the livewell I put mine right in front of the counsel with my batterys in the left rear. it works out great but it looks like your boat is layed out differently than mine. thanks alot.

Jim

 

[Waterwings]

Welcome Aboard, jjaayy ! 8)

 

[Big Buck]

Looks really good. I really like the seat idea. Keep up the good work.

 

[Victor Coar]

I found this article online as far as pressure treated lumber goes. Your boat looks fantastic and I would hate for all that work to be ruined as well as be more expensive than need be EXCELLENT WORK!
Your Place: Pressure-treated wood and aluminum don't mix

By Al Heavens

Inquirer Real Estate Columnist
Question: We have a house at the Shore, with a second-story deck supported by pressure-treated wood. It was built after they banned the old arsenic pressure-treated wood. We had the wood capped with aluminum.

After 18 months, the chemicals in the wood seemed to eat through the aluminum, which had to be replaced. The builder put Tyvek between the wood and the aluminum capping, but the same thing happened. Is there any way to avoid this problem?

Answer: It's pretty obvious that your builder missed something in the directions for the new pressure-treated lumber. It's this: Avoid aluminum flashings altogether. Aluminum corrodes quickly in the presence of high copper concentrations, which is how this generation of lumber can perform without the arsenic with which the old wood had been impregnated.

I have done a lot of reading about Tyvek, and nowhere does it say that it should be used to shield aluminum from corrosive high concentrations of copper. Instead, galvanized or copper flashings should be used.

You ask about PVC flashing, and I think the same rules apply. No.

Tests show that the concentrations of copper in alkaline copper quat (ACQ types B and D) and copper azole (CBA-A, CA-B) are five times more corrosive to common steel than the old CCA (chromated copper arsenate) used in the old pressure-treated lumber.

That means joist hangers and fasteners need to be stainless steel, copper, or a heavier grade of galvanized fastener.

 

[Waterwings]

Good info, Victor! Thanks for posting it! 8)

...That means joist hangers and fasteners need to be stainless steel, copper, or a heavier grade of galvanized fastener.

Now I'm wondering if the galvanized joist hangers I used on my back porch re-build (pressure-treated joists) are galvanized enough to stand the test of time. :-k

 

[jjaayy]

Thanks alot waterwings. Nice site here. Lots of good info to read through. Got to love the little boats. I fish a little power plant lake with a 25 horse limit so it works out good.
So I should not use pressure treated wood on the transom? Should I use marine grade or is plywood I treat myself good enough. The boat is stored outside in the weather.
Jim

 

[Victor Coar]

I used regular plywood 3/4 on the floors and 1/2 everywhere else. I didn't treat my wood at all but i also don't fish in the rain. I would recommend sealing that wood or using a good exterior paint. hope this helps.

 

[gotmuddy]

i will definetly keep a close eye on things. if it eats my boat up it will make me sick. I store the boat inside and dont intend to fish in the rain often.

 

[gotmuddy]

It has been a lonnnnggggg time since I have even checked this forum but I finished the boat a few weeks ago. I had project overload syndrome for a while but I finaly got it done! I will post some pics later in the week. It has turned out really nice and I can already see a few things I want to change at a later date.