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1982 Sea Nymph 14' build
- Thread starter Juanton
- Start date
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Hey all,
Here's what today's efforts brought:
Started off with a bit of work to do on the now settled carpeting. Glad I took my time on the gluing though. Helpful hint: buy the right trowel and a good glue. I found spots that were not well glued before I quit yesterday and I almost didn't take the extra time. Don't rush the glue. The spots I re-did are rock solid now.
I decided to cut a hatch into the casting deck for storage, but that proved to be the most challenging part of the carpeting process. I had to brace the edges (no pictures for that at the moment) by the handle in order for it to be more solid. I am not super happy with the hatch, but maybe next time will prove to be better. I also tried wrapping the hatch edges with carpet. That also backfired and I had to rip it out (hence the random chunks o' carpet on the underside.
Overall, it turned out well. Sharp edges take time though. Work on small sections at a time if you do it like this.
Added a few hinges and a handle. Boom. Ready to hatch...things.
After melting the numbers off the credit card, I installed the new pedestal seat, got the final hardware to tack everything in, put it all on the boat and it looks a little something like this:
I'm not all done, but my wallet is and I have had enough time on dry land in a boat for now. Obviously my small internal wings need to be dealt with. I have noticed a bit of flex in the sides, but nothing major.
I'm at a loss for creating storage/rod lockers. Does anybody have good info or a thread on how to make it mesh well with the curved side of the boat?
Thanks,
-J
Here's what today's efforts brought:
Started off with a bit of work to do on the now settled carpeting. Glad I took my time on the gluing though. Helpful hint: buy the right trowel and a good glue. I found spots that were not well glued before I quit yesterday and I almost didn't take the extra time. Don't rush the glue. The spots I re-did are rock solid now.
I decided to cut a hatch into the casting deck for storage, but that proved to be the most challenging part of the carpeting process. I had to brace the edges (no pictures for that at the moment) by the handle in order for it to be more solid. I am not super happy with the hatch, but maybe next time will prove to be better. I also tried wrapping the hatch edges with carpet. That also backfired and I had to rip it out (hence the random chunks o' carpet on the underside.
Overall, it turned out well. Sharp edges take time though. Work on small sections at a time if you do it like this.
Added a few hinges and a handle. Boom. Ready to hatch...things.
After melting the numbers off the credit card, I installed the new pedestal seat, got the final hardware to tack everything in, put it all on the boat and it looks a little something like this:
I'm not all done, but my wallet is and I have had enough time on dry land in a boat for now. Obviously my small internal wings need to be dealt with. I have noticed a bit of flex in the sides, but nothing major.
I'm at a loss for creating storage/rod lockers. Does anybody have good info or a thread on how to make it mesh well with the curved side of the boat?
Thanks,
-J
Alex_c
Well-known member
You could try some vertical mount rod holders. I think if you space them out right you wouldn't have any issues with the rods hitting the hull. They are dirt cheap as a bonus.
I would reinforce that hull with some ribs of some sort in the future though, the flex will get worse before it gets better. You could use some aluminum angle, tied in to the gunwale and the floor. If you mounted a backing plate under the floor it would be plenty strong. Would also give you somewhere to mount those rod holders. 2"x2" or 1.5"x1.5" aluminum square tubing would work well too.
Either way it looks like you have added a lot of functionality and fish-ability to that boat on a budget...looks like a nice comfortable layout.
I would reinforce that hull with some ribs of some sort in the future though, the flex will get worse before it gets better. You could use some aluminum angle, tied in to the gunwale and the floor. If you mounted a backing plate under the floor it would be plenty strong. Would also give you somewhere to mount those rod holders. 2"x2" or 1.5"x1.5" aluminum square tubing would work well too.
Either way it looks like you have added a lot of functionality and fish-ability to that boat on a budget...looks like a nice comfortable layout.
Thanks for the suggestion. My one question would be how to attach it to the floor. I would have to take everything back up to use a bolt and fender washer. I know this is what I should do, but is there any other way to fasten it down to a rib through the plywood? I guess I just don't know how sharp the angle should be for the brace to be effective.
Thanks for the help.
-J
Alex_c
Well-known member
I see that the ribs are still exposed on each side of the floor, I would just go right to the ribs that are exposed. You might have to play around with it and see what gives you the best stiffness and is out of the way. You might have to think about gussets and triangulation to maximize strength and keep it low profile. It's tough to explain over the internet, but take a look at how the Jon boats are braced, or look at how Gregor boats are built for ideas.
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=320221#p320221 said:
Hi Juanton;
Have you tried to drive it around? I have exact the same boat (Sea Nymph R14 1987, 1993 Yamaha 15HP 2-stroke) and I was thinking about removing middle seat as well but was worries about loosing structural integrity and boat became too flexible...
So for now I just have fishing deck with storage and front part floors built (like on your design sketch #1 - Option A)
StanSav
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