Alumacraft 1648 (updated 9/13/11)

Howard

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Here is my short story version. I did a mod back in the late 1980's. No internet and little source of info but I converted a 14' to my liking. Kids came, sold all my toys to spend my time with them. So 20 years later both kids are in college and I am back! :D Started my research and I find this site with endless amount of info, wish I had this 20years ago. Thanks for the inspiration guys :D . So I really toyed with the idea of starting with a new boat but decided if I could get a great deal I would go used. Picked up a 1993 Alumacraft 1648 with trailer for $300. Trailer is in really good shape but boat needs some work. Here it is .
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Howard

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Sorry, new to site and I see I need to put last pic first. I do have leaks. Some from rivets and there is a smaill hairline crack in bottom center of hull. Two ribs are cracked also but not to worried about them. Boat is rated for a 50 and the previous owner had a 65 HP motor on it. There is a reason they rate these. So, do I do the gel coat that I read about? Does it really last the test of time, really? Or should I look to get some kind of weld on the leaks? Kind of know what I want for the inside but first must stop leaks! Open for advice and experiences......
 

Zum

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Welcome to the site.
I see you already removed the steel supports on the ribs.
I beleive you might be looking for steelflex or coat it.
I am sure someone will chime in with their reveiws,I've heard nothing but good news.
Nice boat.
 

Howard

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Zum, good eye. I did take off the steel supports and this is where I found the cracked ribs. Will be a easy fix and plan on putting a 9.9 HP so not cocerned about further problems. Yes, would like to know mor about steelflex and how it holds up over time. Also does it seal minor cracks or just rivet leaks??
 

Brine

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:WELCOME: to TinBoats

I swapped your pic around for ya. There is a link on here called "Everything Steelflex". Search for those terms using the search bar in the top right, and you'll find a whole bunch of info on it.

In the meantime, I'd view Steelflex as a preventative measure instead of a fix. If you have leaky rivets, it's best to buck them now, stop the leak, then decide whether you want to use Steelflex. You're better off using something else to fix the crack too. Welding, aluminum epoxy, etc....

Good luck on the rig. It looks like a great boat to work with. If you can take some close ups of the crack, you'll probably get the best advice you can find from our members, and once again, welcome aboard!
 

Howard

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Thanks Brine, that was kind of my thinking on handling the leaks. Are you the webmaster? Looking into this stuff, Dura Fix welding rods. https://durafix.com/index.html?gname&gclid=CJ_mpL2JsKICFQO7sgod7U4FSQ
 

Brine

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Nope, Jim runs the place. I'm just a bouncer :mrgreen:

I've seen similar "welding" rods. If I'm not mistaken, they are really "brazing" rods. I can't give you any first hand feedback, but I've heard mixed reviews. I think the application has everything to do with it. Alumaweld is a new product I've been hearing good reviews about, but posting a picture of the crack may yield some clarity on the subject. Just hard to give the best advice alot of times without seeing it.
 

Howard

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Thanks Brine, just wondering how you were able to edit my post. I have done some reading on Alumaweld. I will try to post close up's of leaks.
 

Brine

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Howard said:
Thanks Brine, just wondering how you were able to edit my post. I have done some reading on Alumaweld. I will try to post close up's of leaks.

I'm one of the webiste Moderators whose names will appear in green, and the Grand Poobah is Jim whose name appears in red. That will let you know who is who in case you need some help with the forum that requires Admin access. As such, that is why I was able to edit your post. :wink:
 

Loggerhead Mike

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1993 Alumacraft 1648 with trailer for $300

nice find!!!

welcome aboard

i try'd my hand at the aluminum brazing rods with no luck and after talking to several welders i beleave the rods are junk.

you cant break threw the oxide layer w/ those rods (cant get it hot enough w/out melting the aluminum). Without getting past the oxide layer the rods wont stick for long, if any
 

Nevillizer

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Loggerhead Mike said:
1993 Alumacraft 1648 with trailer for $300

nice find!!!

welcome aboard

i try'd my hand at the aluminum brazing rods with no luck and after talking to several welders i beleave the rods are junk.

you cant break threw the oxide layer w/ those rods (cant get it hot enough w/out melting the aluminum). Without getting past the oxide layer the rods wont stick for long, if any

This is the problem I have had on the 1973 Duracraft. I was successful at welding some new scrap aluminum as well as two cans together but not the boat. Still trying though.
 

bassboy1

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Howard said:
Thanks, I wont use the rods. Just might find someone with a tig and pay them.
You should get your own TIG machine. It's FUN!

Welcome aboard by the way.

Lastly, you got that boat for 300 junior bacon cheeseburgers? Shoot, that's highway robbery.
 

Howard

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Thanks bassboy, didn't look at it like that, LOL. My welding days are over so I will look for someone that has one ( tig) I can get a hold of a mig and will use it on my trailer. Did find someone who will sandblast the bottom (hull) for $150 but I am concerned with him using to much pressure.
 

Sader762

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I've had good luck with the ones I got from Northern Tool. Just have to get the Aluminum really hot.
 

bassboy1

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Howard said:
Thanks bassboy, didn't look at it like that, LOL. My welding days are over so I will look for someone that has one ( tig) I can get a hold of a mig and will use it on my trailer. Did find someone who will sandblast the bottom (hull) for $150 but I am concerned with him using to much pressure.
You'd be much better off soda blasting or blasting with walnut shells than you would with sand. See if you can find someone capable of that.

But, if the paint ain't coming off on it's own, I see no reason to blast it off. It is clearly bonded well to the aluminum, and a paint to paint bond is much easier to achieve than a paint to aluminum bond.
 

Howard

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BB, very good point, I was thinking along those lines. It is what it is, a used boat so I don't mind painting over the old paint as long as the old paint is stuck on good. Might just use airplane stripper and go with that. More concerned with it not leaking. I took the boat off the trailer tonight to look at the trailer and start working on it. The trailer is a tilt one and adjustable. Yes I can slide the tongue back another foot and a half if needed. Really lucked out with this find. Thought of just welding it solid but I think its a pretty cool option to tilt it. Never needed to but like the idea.
 

Howard

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Well as you can see I decided to work on the trailer first. Really didn't feel good about bearings or tires so I will redo them incase I need to pull her ( my beast ) somewhere.
 

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