Aluminum Bass Tracker Renovation.

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Ranchero50 » 07 Oct 2013, 22:33[/url]"]Looks like a good start. The Panfish always was one of my favorite designs. Open floor with enough room to work and play. Sadly Tracker builds cheap production boats and sell them at a premium. At least you can tell where the screw heads are by the rust.

Suggestions, go .100" max for you floor. You can probably get away with .062 if the frame span isn't over 16" or .80". 3/16" is way too heavy for the application.

For the foam I'd use the rigid panels and cut them to fit under the floor (as long as you have a lot more of it up high so the hull doesn't turn turtle it it sinks).

The floor supports are 13" on center. Figured 3/16" aluminum was way overkill but there's a good reason I chose it. I called a local metal supplier and each panel was over $200. I found a guy 10 minutes away that demolished a building and stripped out lots of aluminum floor panels. They are $25. each, and weigh but 22 pounds which is still way lighter than plywood wet or dry.

I planned on a trip to Home Depot to get the Foamular boards. I'll put the thickest material under the flooring that will fit.

I'm thinking that it may be wise to put something like weatherstripping on the tops of each flor suppor spar to isolate the aluminum panels and possibly rattles or squeaks, what do you all think?

What type of screw would you recommend for the flooring? I have thought about pre-drilling and countersinking each screw hole but if I could find a ss screw with a small head that might work as well. One that was powder coated gray to match the new carpet would be even better.

 

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By the way what's the recommended, easiest way to cut 3/16" aluminum? I'm sure some of you c
guys have cut this and know the tricks.

Here's a picture of the front bulkhead. The hole on the right was used for a radio that now in the trash can. Don't really know what the large hole n the left was for, maybe a glove/storage box?

 

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I took the hatch that used to be on the top of the storage area (I'll call it a casting platform) and transferred it to the bulkhead. I'll build a box behind it so I can use it for my Plano tackle boxes. The hole on the left will be plugged.

The casting platform will have a solid top, most likely plywood. I'll hinge it to open for storage of PFDs, ropes, etc.

 

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Check out this little piece of engineering. The splice was bare, no tape, and was for the trolling motor.It was tucked inside the front compartment.

The second picture shows more mouse damage to the wire that fed the trolling motor.

I fish a few lakes that require electric trolling motors only so the plan is for a deep cycle battery under each of the two seats with a Guest battery switch. A Minn Kota digital 3 bank on-board charger would be nice for both trolling batteries and the outboard cranking battery.

 

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On the bow of the boat was a broken anchor winch rated at 18 pounds. Near as I could tell it was made or marketed by Minn Kota. In the process of cleaning up the boat I found a replacement gear that a former owner had purchased but never installed. I dis-assembled, cleaned, and re-assembled the winch and it now works as it should. The plastic cover is broke but I'll deal with that before the project is done.

 

[Ranchero50]

A worm gear circular saw like a Mag77 cuts nicest with a carbide blade but it's extremely loud. Just set the blade shallow and it'll do a nice job. If your saw has seen other odd duty (like cutting concrete pavers) you may want to put some tape on the bottom so it slides easier. Oil, safety glasses, ear plugs and patience.

A Sawzall with a 12" 14-18 tpi blade will do straight cuts as long as you keep the saw angled low so most of the blade is in the cut.

$25 is a dang good reason to use 3/16"

 

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You were right! I used my circular saw with a carbide tipped blade and lubed the cut line on the aluminum plate with WD-40. The saw cut through the 3/16 aluminum like a hot knife through butter. All I needed to do once finished with the cuts was to dress up the edges with the belt sander. If I hadn't done it myself I wouldn't have believed it possible.

 

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Spent some time today stripping the carpet from the aluminum pieces that will be reused. Also test fitted a couple of sections of the new aluminum floor. Got up on the boat to test for flex and have to say I am really going to like not having a ply floor.

 

[Bobsbaits]

What did you stip the carpet off with? Looks like it came out nice.

 

[inlovewithsurfin]

what on earth did you use to clean the aluminum and where can i get some!!!??? boat is coming along nicely! mine could use a good cleaning!

 

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I really didn't do anything special when I pulled the carpet off the aluminum. If you look at the aluminum panel on the left you can see some of the residual glue left behind. The panel on the right looks so clean because that's the opposite side that the carpet was.

The chemical I used to clean up the bottom of the boat was Acti-Brite.
https://www.herculesindustries.com/ProductSpecs/Coil%20Cleaner%20AB1.pdf

BTW Thanks to all that complimented.

 

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I was a bit concerned about vibration and noise from the aluminum deck grating against the aluminum floor stringers so I used 1/8" self adhesive foam. I think it will keep things quieter.

Talked to the nice folks over at Jamestown Distributors abut the best fastener to use for a alum. floor and was told a alum. fastener would be better than stainless steel. So when the time comes I will most likely use aluminum pop-rivets. What are your guys thoughts on this?

Spent a few hours disconnecting all the various wires and cables to the 40 HP oil-injected Evinrude outboard. My intentions are to build a wood stand to put the motor on for the winter. I want to do some various service to the outboard including replacing the impeller. Gawd knows when this motor was last serviced but my guess is only when it didn't start. :roll:

 

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I'm curious as to which battery the electronics should connect to. I'm talking nav lights, lowrance, livewell pump, and bilge? They were connected to the outboard battery not the trolling battery but I'm not sure this is acceptable. I am at a point where I can change if there is a need to.

 

[Bobsbaits]

They should be connected to the outboard battery. Running the motor keeps this charged.

 

[Ranchero50]

Looks good. Your quieting foam will probably wander around over time. I'm going to just lay a 1/8" bead of silicone over the joints and let it set up before I finish installing my deck. I did the front a couple months ago and it worked out well.

 

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Finally found some time to yank the now stripped hull and get it on jackstands. I wanted to strip the 20 years worth of crud off the bottom of the boat. I had to spay it 3 times with Acti-Brite before the crud liquified and was able to be flushed away. Here's a shot of the cleaned bottom.

 

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Shifted my attention to the trailer. It's in pretty decent shape overall. The former owner just replaced all the bunks and winch. The fenders need stripped and repainted and there is a little touch up to do. All the lights need to be replaced as do the tires they are dry rotted and full of cracks.

I have heard that Kwick-Strip Aircraft Remover sold at WalMart removes powder coat so I'll be picking some up today. I'll let you know how that all works out.

 

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Couldn't find Kwick-Strip Aircraft Remover so I settled for a brand that Home Depot carried. It said on the can that when brushed on the color of the gel is blue and when it turn white the paint is ready to be removed. Since this was powder coat and not paint I brushed on a second coat once the 1st coat turned white.

I was easily able to use a wire brush to knock off the loosened powder coat. I then power washed the parts to remove and chemical left behind. The fenders and trailer coupler were the only parts that I really needed to strip.

 

[typed by ben]

god what a mess... took me a second to even figure out what the top picture was. looks like you put some smurfs in a blast furnace and then dropped the vat on the floor.

that stuff did a hell of a job though!

 

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Turned my attention to the livewell.. The former owner told me that it never really worked right, Here's a picture of the thru-hull pump that was melted.

After exchanging email with the great folks at Flow-Rite I realized that the 3/4"
flexible hose that Tracker ran to the livewell had dips in the line allowing airlock of the pump. I intend on running new piping in non-metallic conduit to keep it straight.

I purchased a complete system from Flow-Rite and will be installing it soon.