am i retarded or something wrong?

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allenweeks

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i have trouble loading my boat on the trailer. the back end seemd to float off when retrieving. is the trailer too deep? what can i do to modify the trailer to ride the boat up on the trailer without alot of cash?
 

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I have found long bunks to be the key, with guide ons (tight to the hull, no more than an inch of clearance) a big help as well.
 
All that notwithstanding, it is definitly possible to back too far down the ramp. You learn, the more you fish with a rig, how far is good. In general I only back as far as I have to then nose the bow between the bunks, push as far up with the motor as I can - then I walk up the frame of the trailer and winch it the rest of the way. Takes about 50 seconds, I don't have to power load it and I dont have guide ons.
 
i think i will cut more bunks and make them about 2 foot longer and see how it goes.
 
I too am having this problem, we have tried the trailer deep shallow and everything in between. My bunks actually tilt (pivot) down when the boat comes off. The only thing I know left to do is to put on some vertical guides to center the boat up on the rollers. We got so frustrated with it Saturday we just backed the trailer all the way into he water and attached the cable to the bow and pulled it out crooked and then picked it up and straightened it on the trailer. :x
 
Side guides... that is the only way you are going to stop that.

Even high dollar bass boats use the trailer fenders for that very thing.
 
Quackrstackr said:
Side guides... that is the only way you are going to stop that.

Even high dollar bass boats use the trailer fenders for that very thing.

Ditto what Quakrstackr said... if your trailer is submerged, longer bunks want keep your boat from floating side-to-side. Side guides is the only way to go.
 
You can build your own guide ons but look up what they are to give yourself ideas.I built mine out of scrap stainless but pvc pipe works good to.
 
I've lost count of the times I've gotten frustrated (ticked-off) from not being able to get the boat on trailer correctly, mostly duie to a side current or the wind. Normally I just get in the water and manually load the sucker, lol. :lol:
 
I still say long bunks are more important than guide ons. I am talking bunks at least 2/3 the length of the boat, if not more. That way, you can set your trailer as deep as you want, on as steep a ramp as you want, (provided that you aren't so deep that the winch post is the first thing you hit). If you can get the bow centered, you are home free. My Yazoo has side guides, but I can't say that either of the boats I have trailered on that trailer have ever touched them. If you idle up to the trailer, the nose will hit, and start to slide up the bunks. The bow rising changes the whole way the weight is supported, so it will start to push the transom down. The transom hits the bunks, and it is stuck. Then, if you haven't hit it yet, jump to the bow, and winch it the rest of the way to the bow stop. After a bit, you can start to realize where you need to put the trailer to the point that it nudges the bow stop at the instant that it touches down at the stern.

My 12 foot Grumman was on a trailer similar to yours - short bunks, and a bow support. Had all the same things you were describing. Put the 12 foot Sea King (very similar dimensions to Grumman) on the Yazoo trailer, which has 10 foot bunks, and I could get it on there perfect, every time, including the first time, and spend less than 45 seconds on the ramp (that is dependant on the length of ramp, and skill level of person in truck).

Now, I am not talking about the powerloading method used by large bass boats that tears up ramps. I am talking about idling in gear towards the trailer, and letting the boats momentum carry it up the trailer.
 
Try leaving a little less of the trailer in the water. Then have your partner toss you the winch line, hook it up & let him winch you onto the trailer. You'll have less chance of drifting-off that way. Might take a couple times to figure it out exactly, but it's easier in the long-run.

ST
 
bassboy1 said:
Now, I am not talking about the powerloading method used by large bass boats that tears up ramps.

I launch at a lot of different ramps and have never seen any of them torn up by power loading. :?:

What kind of ramps are you talking about?
 
Some people are die hard anti powerloaders. From what I have seen on various boards, is they are pleasure boaters who are either jealous of the efficiency in the way bass boaters load, or people who loath bass rockets.

There is some truth to what they are saying. Last winter, when we had the big drought, the longest ramp on the lake was closed and had the lake dropped another foot, the second longest would have been closed as well. Apparently, power loading had washed out the dirt at the bottom of the ramp, so the end section fell into the hole, making the usable length of the ramp shorter.

I for one, don't believe that powerloading was the sole cause of that, and if on a concrete ramp, there is no problem with it. But, I do think that people should refrain on gravel/dirt ramps, as it definitely does cause a problem, or when they are at the very end of a concrete ramp (pulling a trailer that has fallen off the end is no fun). I will say that I powerload every now and then, but have actually found it easier to follow the above method.
 
Also depends how long the trailer tongue is.I don't like putting my truck tires in the water...hard on brakes,undercoating washes in the water,etc.If I hard a longer trailer tongue I might opt for bunks but the guide ons have never let me down yet,put some of that pipe insulation around them with only half inch to spare on each side...centers everytime.
 
Hey guys, just to chime in, i believe here in michigan it is illegal to powerload a boat. I have seen many ramps washed out from guys powering it up on the trailer. On the St. Joe river here in southwest michigan the water level fluctuates alot and at times you hardly have any of the concrete part of the landing underwater. Then there is a big wash out hole at the end which makes it hard to pull trailer back up. I made some vertical guides out of some heavy L brackets and treated 2x4s with carpet on them. Makes it very easy to load and keep the boat straight especially on the river. I do need to make them longer as with the lower water levels it puts my trailer farther in the washed out hole and my vertical guides almost disapear. Just my 2cents worth.
 
riverbronzeback said:
Hey guys, just to chime in, i believe here in michigan it is illegal to powerload a boat. I have seen many ramps washed out from guys powering it up on the trailer. On the St. Joe river here in southwest michigan the water level fluctuates alot and at times you hardly have any of the concrete part of the landing underwater. Then there is a big wash out hole at the end which makes it hard to pull trailer back up. I made some vertical guides out of some heavy L brackets and treated 2x4s with carpet on them. Makes it very easy to load and keep the boat straight especially on the river. I do need to make them longer as with the lower water levels it puts my trailer farther in the washed out hole and my vertical guides almost disapear. Just my 2cents worth.
For those states that don't allow powerloading, do they allow just idling in gear on to the trailer, without ever revving the motor?
 
That was the reasoning behind my other post. With less water over the bunks, the boat has less tendency to float off the bunks because it has more weight on them.

ST
 
I put my trailer in the water far enough to wet the entire bunk boards and then pull out until the back of the bunks are about an inch above the water. Now with my new bunk board glide ons (on the bunks, not on the side) my boat is self centering. I can power load it all the way to the stop bumper, walk up and clip the strap on and go. And no, you're not retarded, just got to find the sweet spot for your boat trailer combo.
 
...I put my trailer in the water far enough to wet the entire bunk boards and then pull out ...

I do that also. Wet the entire length of the bunks, then pull up to where I need to be to load. Wetting the entire bunk helps when winching/adjusting the boat to where it needs to be.
 

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