Boat floor

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archery68 said:
Aluminum with holes in it.
b84991c973d88972eab82cd5f2ed8df0.jpg



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How thick is it?

I guess if putting in a john boat, level cross members would have to be installed.

How much is that stuff?


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom
 
beagler1 said:
archery68 said:
Aluminum with holes in it.
b84991c973d88972eab82cd5f2ed8df0.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How thick is it?

I guess if putting in a john boat, level cross members would have to be installed.

How much is that stuff?


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom
not sure how thick it is, pretty thin though. The dealer welds bracing in before install. I would have to go back and look but I think for my 1852 it was around 500


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Had Trout & Sons in Missouri install my floor. They welded bracing between ribs on 12" centers to support the aluminum and then riveted the perforated sheet to the ribs. All told the weight for my 1448 is under 30 lbs. No idea what the thickness is but probably under 1/8". It provides a totally solid, no sag, no rattle floor. I paid approximately $300 for material and labor and that included caulking the edges so that leaves etc can't slip past. The perforations prevent anything but the smallest dirt from getting under it and since there isn't insulation board under the aluminum, dirt washes to the back and out the drain. Floor stays cool in direct sun while decking gets hot enough to fry an egg. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
 
momule said:
Had Trout & Sons in Missouri install my floor. They welded bracing between ribs on 12" centers to support the aluminum and then riveted the perforated sheet to the ribs. All told the weight for my 1448 is under 30 lbs. No idea what the thickness is but probably under 1/8". It provides a totally solid, no sag, no rattle floor. I paid approximately $300 for material and labor and that included caulking the edges so that leaves etc can't slip past. The perforations prevent anything but the smallest dirt from getting under it and since there isn't insulation board under the aluminum, dirt washes to the back and out the drain. Floor stays cool in direct sun while decking gets hot enough to fry an egg. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
I agree with this, the perforated floor is the way to go. Still haven't looked to find out exactly what I paid for my floor installed but it's worth it. Obviously the bigger/wider boat will cost more. A great investment.


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beagler1 said:
Shoot ill pay 300 to have that done!!


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom
its worth it. Have owned 3 jets through the years and all had it.


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Trout and Son (https://trouttandsons.com/openclass/boat-assessories/2015-perforated-aluminum-sheets.html) has perforated aluminum advertised on their website for $35 per running foot of 5' wide material. Comes in 8' and 10' lengths. Sounds expensive and compared to a sheet of plywood it is, but it is permanent and a perfect material for the job. I've also done the plywood thing back when pennies were being pinched but I'm running a 1448 because I wanted that boat and not a larger one. Having the dealership do the fab work produced a pro job and they buy the material in bulk which any good metal shop can do. My 1448 took one pc at 4'X4' for between the front and rear bench and a smaller pc from the front bench to the front deck. They only charged me for the square footage used and not by the sheet so there was no waste. I may have gotten a break on labor because I also had them build a hinged deck covering the rear bench back to the transom. I suspect that I have more into my little boat than I'll be able to get for it on a sale but it's exactly the way I wanted it and I have no plans to sell unless I rip the bottom out of it on a rock....which may happen if I don't change my ways. :lol:
 
The floor in my boat was put in at time i
purchased the boat new at Ernies sales in Ellington Missouri. Not sure how he charges but I do know he gets it in rolls and not sheets.


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