Briggs question

[FishingBuds]

I have a tiller with a 5hp briggs, it starts fine but once it gets warm it die's and won't start untill it cools off. What should I look for? last year I put a new plug in and cleaned the carb and inside of the tank, it didn't work.

 

[ben2go]

Clean the air filter.If it still does it,check out the points and condenser(if it has them) and the coil.I set the coil air gap with a match book or the top off a cereal box,just need one side.Points gap should be .016 to .018.You can use the match book trick but it's better to use a feeler gauge.

 

[KMixson]

Most likely the the air filter. Whlie cold it is running rich and can run until it warms up and then it can't run with such a rich mixture. After that I would check fuel lines to make sure they are not too close to the exhaust and getting hot causing vapor lock. Trash or debris in the carburator could also be plugging ports inside and when the float bowl runs dry it dies, then after sitting for a little while it slowly fills back up with fuel to run another few minutes until it runs dry again.

 

[FishingBuds]

Hmm, ?? I don't know. I changed the air filter(on top of the carb) took the carb apart last year and cleaned it out, but There is a vacumm line tube that runs from the carb to the engine that has a plastic elbow thats cracked?

I'll check out the other parts ben2go, maybe I'll post some picks, its a older briggs.

 

[Gamefisher]

After you eliminate the basic possible problems, it could be a bad ignition coil. When a coil heats up and parts expand, they can short out, until they cool down again.

Matt

 

[GrumMan]

Fuel filter? Need more info. As gamefisher said, eliminate the basic's. When it dies, determine if you have spark. If so, determine if you are getting fuel to the carb. Go from there.

 

[ben2go]

Hmm, ?? I don't know. I changed the air filter(on top of the carb) took the carb apart last year and cleaned it out, but There is a vacumm line tube that runs from the carb to the engine that has a plastic elbow thats cracked?

I'll check out the other parts ben2go, maybe I'll post some picks, its a older briggs.

That little plastic elbo recirculates the crankcase gasses back into the carb to be reburnt.It's kinda like a PCV valve on a auto engine.it shouldn't cause a problem with running.I'd replace it to keep from bowing oil out of the motor.

 

[FishingBuds]

OK here it is and I took off the cover with the rope today

I was looking at the ingnition coil(i think) and one of the wires run under the big crank thingy that sits under the pull rope, if I have to remove this, is it with a gear puller? I didn't see no key in the shaft

 

[Defiant]

Check for spark when it quits could be the coil getting hot and shutting off .

 

[KMixson]

To get the flywheel off you have to remove the adapter on top first. Take a punch and drive the adapter counterclockwise to remove it preferably from the bottom side of the adapter. If you hit the top side you may crack it or mess the bolt holes for the screen up and then have to replace it. Then take a puller and remove the flywheel from the shaft by installing bolts into the flywheel bolt holes and placing the drive screw on the shaft. If for some reason it seems to be really stuck on the shaft take some WD-40 or PB blaster and spray on the shaft. You can also tap lightly on the flywheel (with tension on the puller) to see if it will break free from the shaft. Do not go after it with a 16 pound sledge hammer.

 

[Andy]

Just want to add from personal experience PB blaster works better than WD40 for rusted stuff.

 

[ben2go]

To get the flywheel off you have to remove the adapter on top first. Take a punch and drive the adapter counterclockwise to remove it preferably from the bottom side of the adapter. If you hit the top side you may crack it or mess the bolt holes for the screen up and then have to replace it. Then take a puller and remove the flywheel from the shaft by installing bolts into the flywheel bolt holes and placing the drive screw on the shaft. If for some reason it seems to be really stuck on the shaft take some WD-40 or PB blaster and spray on the shaft. You can also tap lightly on the flywheel (with tension on the puller) to see if it will break free from the shaft. Do not go after it with a 16 pound sledge hammer.

This sounds more difficult than it actually is.Just take your time and go slow.If things don't seem to be coming apart, soak it with penatrating oil,and let it sit for a few hours or over night.I did this with my O/B and it took 2 weeks of doing this everyday for it to come apart.It is 28 years old tho.

Just want to add from personal experience PB blaster works better than WD40 for rusted stuff.

I agree.It does werk better.The best that I have found is Aerokroil.Hard to find in some places.

 

[FishingBuds]

FYI, I busted my index finger with my hammer :x

AND YES it Hurt :shock:

and NO I have not gotten off the fly wheel still

I need to let the swelling go down to at least my thumb size, Sorry no Pics [-X

Yes I took the little things for granted before this accident, like handling the toilet paper :roll:

 

[FishingBuds]

OK one pic, but thats it :x

Trust me its bigger than my thumb, just a little hard to take the shot comparing my thumb to it, I ruined my shirt from the belly crawl out of the garage, man it hurt [-o<

 

[FishingBuds]

OK I lied, one more shot but that is it, I put a rag in my mouth and bit down for this shot, just for you guys