Bunk orientation

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gunny146

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I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'll ask again. Which way is best to for the bunks to lay? Should they lay flat or on edge. I have seen it both ways on different boats. I noticed the brackets for the edge mounts are cheaper. Just wondering which way to go.
 
flat is better - it gives you more support for your boat when its on the trailer... it also sits the boat lower, so that you don't have to go quite as deep in the water to load and unload
 
Third.

I would only lay bunks on their sides if I had very limited trailer space. If you can, lay 'em flat.
 
I guess it really depends on the boat that there supporting and how many there are. My trailer has four sets two on the inside are flat and the two outside are on the edge.
 
Bringing this topic back to the top...trying to get some more input. Bunks on edge or flat? Any known pros and cons? Or does it just depend on the specific boat/trailer setup. My boat/trailer would work better if they were on edge...but before I change it, I want to check with you guys if there is any neg experience.
Thanks!
 
Mine and my brothers were both edge mounts when we got them. I have since converted both trailers to flat mount. As far as pros and cons, I can think of a couple. On edge, the 2x4 will have less flex/bow if you extend the board past the mount point by a couple of feet. Mounted flat spreads the support out over a much larger surface (sq inches) which is less likely to deform the bottom of the hull. Mounted flat means the boat floats much sooner as you back down the ramp so your less likely to put your vehicles tires in the water to launch/recover. And I don't know if anyone makes bunk slicks for edge mounted bunks if you plan to add those to your trailer.
 
tincansailor said:
Mine are on edge. Would have to redesign the brackets to be able to put them flat.

Same here, I think alot would depend on how much weight we are talking about. My tins are open and no decks or storage compartments .
 
The main reason I converted my trailer wasn't for weight issues. It was to get the boat lower so it would launch without putting my truck tires in the water. Now I want to lengthen the tongue a little so I can stand between the back bumper and the the trailer winch without getting my feet wet. :mrgreen: Some of the ramps I use have a shallow angle so that can be difficult at times.

If you have a hack saw and access to a welder, converting one from edge mount to flat is pretty simple. You just remove the existing edge mount brackets, cut the ears off the brackets, then weld them to the cross members of the trailer in line with where the old brackets were mounted.

Trailermod.jpg
 
Ok, that makes sense. Well, for me, my trailer is homemade by PO and isn't quite right. I want to put them on edge so it will lift the boat up a couple inches, to prevent it from hitting/rubbing on my wheel well. The boat stops about 1 inch from the wells, but I am afraid when launching and recovering.
Sorry for the questions but I need some more help!
Second question: What is the best way to support the front of the boat, is that shorter board going perpendicular to the trailer, fine? My only thing is I don't like how its cutting through the carpet...not sure if its an issue or normal after years of use. I can just replace the carpet if that is the case.
 

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Looking at your pics, it appears that the spacing on your bunks has the boat resting with the strakes on top of the bunks and they are definitely cutting through the carpet on that front board tuned sideways. Looking at that 3rd picture, I see enough daylight over the top of the tire that it appears you have room to lower the fenders. If it were me, I'd lower the fenders, move the bunks in so just enough that the strakes are not on the bunks, and remove that front board. If the boat still needs more forward support after that, I would mount 2 short bunks up front but orient them in the same direction as the main bunks on each side of the center strake. I would also want to add side bunks which would keep the boat off the fenders as well but they are so useful in other ways, especially if you launch and recover your boat on rivers with much current. But I have access to a welder, cutting torch, portaband etc so that affects what I would do and may not necessarily be what others would do.
 
JMichael said:
Looking at your pics, it appears that the spacing on your bunks has the boat resting with the strakes on top of the bunks and they are definitely cutting through the carpet on that front board tuned sideways. Looking at that 3rd picture, I see enough daylight over the top of the tire that it appears you have room to lower the fenders. If it were me, I'd lower the fenders, move the bunks in so just enough that the strakes are not on the bunks, and remove that front board. If the boat still needs more forward support after that, I would mount 2 short bunks up front but orient them in the same direction as the main bunks on each side of the center strake. I would also want to add side bunks which would keep the boat off the fenders as well but they are so useful in other ways, especially if you launch and recover your boat on rivers with much current. But I have access to a welder, cutting torch, portaband etc so that affects what I would do and may not necessarily be what others would do.

I have tools to do everything but weld. So moving the wheel fenders is probably not an option. I think I will just let them on edge, or stack two boards on top of each other to get the extra height. Don't really feel like wasting carpet for the bottom second board. Hmm, might not look as clean as I would like it.
 
Replacing the worn out carpet with bunk slicks will give you a little more height over the fender without double stacking bunk boards. Plus, bunk slicks will last a lot longer than carpet. Just an idea.
 
One the face of it, it's a simple answer: the more surface area you can provide for the hul to lay on the better it is for the hull.

Now, that being said, the bunks need to fit between the strakes.

The also need to extend past the transom about 2".

And finally, they need to be able to support the weight.

That last one is where you have to balance out the edge or flat argument.

There's less strength in a bunk laid flat as opposed to on edge and if it deflects between it's frame supports due to vessel weight it's not doing it's job and edge mount may be a better choice. And if edge mounted, you have to consider the support being given to the hull in the smaller contact patch.

It all sounds simple, but there's a bit of an art to it.

Now, if you're talking about something like a 1000 pounds or less in a tinny, you pretty much can't go wrong either way as long as you are supporting the transom and not crunching strakes.......
 

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