Changing out pedestal base and post

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bt4264

Active member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
south Lousiana
I hope I can describe this well enough.....
I have a 1544 G3 with a front deck that currently has a bolted on seat base and post. Under the deck is all foam except for a ~16x16 area directly under the seat base, so you can get to the nuts for the bolts. Running from the bow, aft is a "channel" that is used for support, obviously. It sits directly under the seat base/post.
I am wanting to change out this typ of seat base/post for the 3/4" post type that makes it removeable. The current one is not removeable and is in my line of sight. In order for me to do this, I would have to drill about a 1" hole through this channel for the seat base to go down.
Has anyone done this before? Did it work? Do you guys see any problems with this?

Thanks
 
I'm not sure if this is a flush mounting seat base but perhaps you can go with this:

https://www.basspro.com/Springfield-PlugIn-NonLocking-Base/product/74025/-1206816

If it mounts flush to the deck, then you won't have to alter that support beam or beef up the support for the deck.
 
Thanks crkdltr,
I saw that also, but it got terrible reviews so I was reluctant to order it. I'm in Slidell, so I don't get over to Bass Pro very often. I guess I've now got a justified trip..... =D>

I guess no one has been where I am????
 
does it have to be a post type mount?
I used these https://www.basspro.com/Wise-SureMount-Seat-Brackets/product/10210432/-1564452

and have been happy with them. they slidealong the bench so you can adjust seating,then if you slide them farther than the rear keeper.You can remove the seat all together. On my boat the benches are curved and it worked.The only problem I had with them, is that my benches were not wide enough to accomadate the keeper bracket,so when facing aft you can not lean back in the seat.I looked through all my pics and relized I have no good pics of the mount,on the boat.
 
crkdltr said:
I'm not sure if this is a flush mounting seat base but perhaps you can go with this:

https://www.basspro.com/Springfield-PlugIn-NonLocking-Base/product/74025/-1206816

If it mounts flush to the deck, then you won't have to alter that support beam or beef up the support for the deck.


Those require a bigger hole than most others. I had that style on a boat before. I liked them, but they do require about a 3" diameter hole!
 
texxfletch said:
does it have to be a post type mount?
I used these https://www.basspro.com/Wise-SureMount-Seat-Brackets/product/10210432/-1564452

and have been happy with them. they slidealong the bench so you can adjust seating,then if you slide them farther than the rear keeper.You can remove the seat all together. On my boat the benches are curved and it worked.The only problem I had with them, is that my benches were not wide enough to accomadate the keeper bracket,so when facing aft you can not lean back in the seat.I looked through all my pics and relized I have no good pics of the mount,on the boat.


It does need a post mount, it's on the front deck. There is no bench. Also, I have a foot controlled TM.
I can see where this would work on a bench, though.
Thanks
 
I have a G3, 1548, and this is what I did, drilled a small pilot hole for the lag bolts, then used 1/4" lag bolts and lock washers to anchor it down. Lag bolt/screws have the hex head so you have to use a ratchet and socket, did the same on the back seat bases.
 
i drilled thru my channel to mount my 3/4 post bases.i holesawed a 2''"hole thru my plywood and 1 1/4 thru the channel.no problem,and it gave the screws a little extra to grab. if you dont want a 2" hole thru your aluminum,cut a plywood base for the seatbase to sit on.
 
I bolted mine directly to the aluminum and not to a plywood base, because I want it to hold up, I weigh approx 230 lbs, and did not want to take a chance on the screws popping out. You put in 1/4" lag screws and its not going anywhere. I have used them in aluminum and fiberglass boats with no problems. I get them started with a ratchet and socket a couple of rounds, then use a socket on an electric drill to finish the job. A friend of mine goes one step further and uses 3M5200 for sealing and holding along with the lags screws, good fishin to ya, jus' sayin'
 

Latest posts

Top