convert to stick steer?

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Not so sure about marketing Lol since I will be using someone else's product, but I guess I could probably do some custom installations.....
 
Put some photos or drawings up so the rest of us can see how you did it.
The Reason why the Commercial designs are so expensive: Two things.
Product liability insurance. And Certified Engineers doing the designs.
Watch out you don't get caught up in a big lawsuit.
 
i did put up some pics of some drawings on how i plan to do it, but i havent done it yet... i have to redo the floor that i had put in my boat, since i let it sit unsealed for about 6 months
 
Yes, the one pic was easy to understand. The Steering lever.
However, in my mind I've never been able to deal with a 'Fore&Aft' for 'left&right' in my little pin head.

I had lot's of ideas, but just don't think I'd make that 'left&right' thing work.

A person could have a Pedal on the side of the boat with a toe strap for Push&Pull.

Show me how your going to make the Gear shift and throttle work.
 
I happened to come across this pic today while looking for something else. Looks like a simple way to connect to the old style outboards.
 

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Yes, the original pin came up from below and had a flip lok to keep in in the Bar.
There's a place on the frame for a Shift and Throttle cable to hook up.
The Throttle connected at the inner end of the Tiller.
You can see the hole in the Shift lever where that cable hooked up.
Now all you need is an electric start!
 
Tusker said:
I happened to come across this pic today while looking for something else. Looks like a simple way to connect to the old style outboards.

yeah i think i may actually do it that way instead of the way i was going to, depends on how much travel the cable has..
thudpucker said:
Yes, the original pin came up from below and had a flip lok to keep in in the Bar.
There's a place on the frame for a Shift and Throttle cable to hook up.
The Throttle connected at the inner end of the Tiller.
You can see the hole in the Shift lever where that cable hooked up.
Now all you need is an electric start!

i plan on hooking up a regular old choke cable to the throttle and shift linkages, with modified handles lol.. oh and i do have electric start!! :LOL2:
 
Lol well I said I have electric start, not that it works.... I actually have to buy a new starter for mine to work correctly. It will keep the motor spinning if I "help" it start spinning. I took the starter apart today actually and some of the copper wires inside it for the brushes had actually broken off and were in the bottom of the starter.. thankfully, the starter into too bad expensive. I found one on ebay brand new for like $66
 
If the strands of wire you're referring to are the ones that connect to the brushes, you probably aren't getting full amp to the brushes so the starter ends up being weak or no torque. You can get new brushes pretty cheap for most starter motors.
 
from what i have been told, you cant rebuild prestolite starters... idk but it didnt look like all that stuff came apart on the inside. the guy i always go to for all my boat parts and what not said that the prestolite starters cant be rebuilt
 
bikeordie092 said:
from what i have been told, you cant rebuild prestolite starters... idk but it didnt look like all that stuff came apart on the inside. the guy i always go to for all my boat parts and what not said that the prestolite starters cant be rebuilt
Might be true for some models but evidently not the case for all prestolite starters because a google search of perstolite starter brushes will give several different links to brush sets and then there is this.
https://forums.iboats.com/johnson-evinrude-outboards/prestolite-brushes-91548.html

But if a new one is only $66 that might be the best way to go.
 
i cant seem to find any kits to rebuild the one on my motor.. the number on the starter is MDO-4102. the sierra number is 18-5629, there are many different OMC numbers for it but the one im using is 378674... i would most definitely rebuild it if i could, lol i am all about saving money, even if i do have to wait for parts. BUT with that being said, i have no idea how old the starter is, so i may just order a new one.
 
Here is a brush kit. If you scroll down to list of starters it fits, it list your Sierra number 18-5629 as one of them. So assuming you have your numbers correct, I would think this is what you need.
https://www.usautoelectric.com/store-products-BH38121001-Housing,-CE,-Brush-Holder--Brush-Kit-with-Terminal-Installed----38121001_1097553637.html

P.S. It also has your OMC number in the list.
 
ok, maybe that is the difference.. the brushes on mine dont look anything like that... theres just 2 and the armature goes inside them. but also some of the copper wires on the armature are what are broken/missing and i would imagine thats what is "more" wrong than the brushes...
 
If you've got some of the contacts missing off of the commutator, you'll have to take that to a rebuild shop or buy new. Brushes won't fix that problem.
 
JMichael said:
If you've got some of the contacts missing off of the commutator, you'll have to take that to a rebuild shop or buy new. Brushes won't fix that problem.

would that make it weak? like it wont turn the motor over on its own but will keep it spinning if i pull it too
 
Yes. For each commutator contact or wires to a contact that are lost, that is one field/armature winding that is eliminated. It won't take many to weaken or even stop it from turning all together.
 

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