Country Dave’s Lowe 1752 modification/restoration project.

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Sounds good Big,

I just ordered my Engel deep blue 35. Best in class ice retention and overall performance with 2 inches of insulation all round. Holds ice for 8-10 days. Flush mounted marine grade draw latches with stainless steel backing plates & screws. Sturdy non-skid lid, suitable for standing or sitting. White non-skid, non-marking feet help keep the cooler in place, while keeping the deck clean. Cooler floor is pitched to allow water to self-drain completely. Dry ice compatible. Food grade plastic resists stains and is easy to clean.

I wanted a tuff cooler so I could use it to do double duty as a casting platform. When not on the front deck it will fit nicely in front of the console.
 

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Hmmm, I sell the grizzly and pelican coolers....both rated very high and they are both made in the USA. Maybe next time.
 

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I added a couple of reflectors to the trailer guide posts,

They have a nice thick quality piece of double sided tape on them. Even though some of them will get wet when backing the trailer down I think they will stay on for a good while. I put a peace of 0.125 plate under the deck were the PO had a pedestal seat mounted and left a hole.

Then I but “J-B Weld” over the top. “Seadek” is going to be covering it and it probably would have been ok but I didn’t want to take a chance. I also added a front SS cleat and robe guide. I’m going to use the existing hole in the front so I can store the anchor robe below deck and feed it out when necessary. I also caulked in between the two floor panels.
 

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[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=337034#p337034 said:
bigwave » 8 minutes ago[/url]"]What are you going to use to keep the rope from being chafed when pulling it out of that hole?

Hey Big,

You can't see it form the pics but I filed/beveled the edge so it's nice and rounded. Beside there will be no drag on the line. When I pull out the line I will pretty much be pulling it up not forward. the only drag on the line will be in the rope guide. Sorry about the cooler bro. I will check with you on any future purchases.
 
Looking GREAT bro. Between running my own biz, working for the state and working with the better half for her career search so my happy *** can retire, I haven't had much time to do anything lol...

Before ya know it, I'll be knocking on retirement door and I am SO ready!

Last and surely NOT least, Merry Christmas to ALL :mrgreen:
 
Hey thank you guys and Marry Christmas to you, all,

BB I've been divorced twice so the retirement plans got set back a little. LOL Well I played with the skiff a little bit today. I ran the motor and then changed the oil and filter. I also made a redneck fuel sender........... :LOL2:

I 've used the tube type/cylindrical fuel senders before and you cant beat um. But I didn't even think about it until after I mounted the deck plate over the tank. ](*,) Just didn't feel like drilling out the rivets and so the redneck kicked in. You get so much slosh when running and sometimes the resistance in the sender circuit changes and you don't get an accurate reading.

The old style float on the arm will usually settled down once the boat comes to rest. If nothing else this will let me check the accuracy of my gauge when at rest. The fuel tank is 7" tall so I just got a oak dowel marked it and ran the blade on my table saw up just enough to put a slight cut in it. Highlighted the cuts with a permanent marker and used my number punch set to mark E ¼ ½ ¾ and F You can see by the color change I have 1/2 tank right now. The gauge says slightly over 1/2
 

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with your oversized motor im thinking your needing a bigger fuel tank. :mrgreen:
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=337236#p337236 said:
hudflat » 2 minutes ago[/url]"]with your oversized motor im thinking your needing a bigger fuel tank. :mrgreen:

Brother were you been? where's the fish pic's? That motor sips fuel. 25gal I can run the whole weekend and come home with fuel in the tank.......................... :mrgreen:
 
I was able to fab and mount the cover for the rear storage area, were ironically I won’t be storing anything. :LOL2:

I will however have to gain access to it from time to time. I decided not to put hinges on it. I wanted it to be easily removable. So I just took some L-Brackets and persuaded them in to Z-Brackets. :LOL2:

The Z-Brackets hold it down nice in the rear. Standard hatch latches in the front and a center support to hold it open. It all came out pretty good. I also got my templates cut for the bench faceplate. I will cut them out in the next day or two. Then paint/rhino line them like I did to the floor. I need to figure out my mounting points for the polling platform then she will get outsourced for the “Camo Seadek” ..................... :mrgreen:
 

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[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=337396#p337396 said:
bigwave » 14 minutes ago[/url]"]Are you really thinking about sending her out for seadeck application. :shock: Almost done..... :beer: :beer:

Yeh brother,

Sending her to my friend at "Shallow water customs" I know the owner and he owes me........... :LOL2:
They do a lot of "Seadek" installations. He's going to hook me up, besides I want all of the edges and transition points beveled. I cant do that. I'm going to mock up my polling platform soon. Just a few things and she is complete............... :mrgreen:
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=337540#p337540 said:
Country Dave » 31 Dec 2013, 10:10[/url]"]Anybody running a poling platform,

I'm thinking 30/33" tall. I'm going to mock one up tomorrow and I'm still undecided on the height.


Make sure you can tilt the motor up and remove the cowl in an emergency. When I measured to mock one up I was surprised by how high it would need to be.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=337715#p337715 said:
Lowe 2070 CC » Today, 13:36[/url]"]
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=337540#p337540 said:
Country Dave » 31 Dec 2013, 10:10[/url]"]Anybody running a poling platform,

I'm thinking 30/33" tall. I'm going to mock one up tomorrow and I'm still undecided on the height.


Make sure you can tilt the motor up and remove the cowl in an emergency. When I measured to mock one up I was surprised by how high it would need to be.


I have a few challenges and that is one of them. :LOL2: The other ones being, I have to raise the motor up on the jack plate a little bit to start with so when I do tilt the motor the steering ram clears the transom. I also have to tilt the motor up a pretty good distance to get the bottom of the skeg even with the bottom of the boat.

When its in that position the top of the cowling is pretty high. 44" from the floor if I remember correctly. "To high" I don't want a tuna tower :LOL2: I'm going to make it 33" and it will set pretty much in front of the motor as opposed to over the top of it. The other challenge is "Mounting points for the legs. I think I've settled on the two rear legs coming strait up from the top of the transom and the front ones will have to be angled from just behind the livewell/just in front of the rear storage area.

I will mock something up here in the next day or so.
 
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