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Just ordered my SteelFlex from Fiberglass Supply Depot this morning. Great people to work with. Called him to correct my address and no problems. He called back later and was able to help me with getting the correct rollers to use. I feel like he didn't take advantage of someone who wouldn't know that he ordered the wrong type of roller. Instead he recommended the right roller to substitute.
What rollers did he recommend? Im about to lay some black steel flex on the bottom of mine. Thanks
I recently bought some epoxy and steel flex from fiberglass supply. They were very helpfull. Recomended roller is short nap solvent resistant btw.
Oh a pic. Something a bit different from the norm. Its built from plywood. Sealed with 5 coats epoxy. 2 coats of steel flex. Front panel bolts on to make it water tight.


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Hey anyone know how steel flex is long term? Also I'm tiring to find it with no luck anyone know where i can buy it?
Does anyone know what steelflex looks like with no color added. I didn't order pigment. I've read that it's cream colored and I've read its clear/cloudy. I plan on doing the bottom and sides of a 1542 flat bottom. Should I paint first then rough it up? Or is it a solid enough color that you won't even see what's underneath?
I love steelflex, installed it on a buddies boat last summer. You can push the boat around on the trailer with one finger!

Steelflex 9x-2000 on 14 foot jon boat: https://youtu.be/-RHWvmf1f8U
All the Fasco products that you can buy online. Fasco does not do online sales.

We are the main distributor for Fasco online.

TTSam said:
I just got off the phone with Fasco. Spoke with a nice lady but could not really understand her nor could she really help me. She gave me an email to send my order request but what I need to know is how much should I get. I was told 3 quarts is $47.00(this is the non teflon) and 1 gallon $107.00. My boat is 15 long and 5 wide. I just want to do the bottom and up the side say 8-10 inches. I have read that many have had plenty left over after multi coats. How much they bought, I have no idea. Any help would be appreciated.

A gallon will do about 100 to 120 sq feet.
Hello everyone, first post on the forums though I have been reading and using them a lot lately. Last week I started my own restoration project on a 1988 bass tracker 17 tx, I will start a thread soon with all my progress and pics.

So here is my question. I am about to order steel flex to coat the bottom with, I do a lot of fishing on the Missouri River. Should I order the basic 9000 or the slick stuff. If I order the basic will I need to paint it to get a black bottom or is there an additive to get a black. Or do I paint over it?

Also my plain as of now is to put some g flex over some of the rivets prior to applying the steel flex, will I have any issues withe the performance and adhesion of the steel flex if I do this?
There's tints you can buy to color it. Painting would be pointless and its thick enough imo that you would not have to put anything on the rivets prior
ok so I received my steelflex ( I went with the slick stuff). I have the boat sand blasted, what is the consenses on the best way to apply the stuff???
If I were to do it again in hindsight I would use a trowel to spread it out and a stiff paint brush for the edges. And a second person for oh crap moments
sdm111 said:
If I were to do it again in hindsight I would use a trowel to spread it out and a stiff paint brush for the edges. And a second person for oh crap moments

ic ic what about the initial coat, should I just roll on a thin coat? and how long should I let first coat dry before putting on the heavy coat?
Well after reviewing all these pages and posts here and in a lot of other forums I put the steelflex superslick on the bottom on my 14x36 jon boat w pods.
Prepped everything per all the posts.
I got my 4" foam rollers and per one post I read (don't remember who but thanks a LOT) I got a 10" squeegee from Home depot and pulled the rubber piece out and cut it in half and slid it back in to the frame so it would fit between the ribs.
I decided to do a test of the stuff so this morning I took about a tablespoon of each part, mixed it up and pored it on the one pod. I used the squeegee to spread it and then lightly brushed it (I didn't want to hit that small area w a dry roller).
It spread pretty nice and it was good to see the consistency of the mixed product.

So earlier this afternoon I got my wife to help me. I mixed 1 quart (1 pint of each) and set at it. I poured small ribbons of the mixed product on the hull on the space between the ribs one at a time.
Then I used the squeegee to spread it. THAT works AMAZING!!!! I read of others using a trowel but the flex in this was perfect.

So I spread it on the length of each section and my wife followed up with the roller making it even and also doing the raised ribs.
I went up the sides about 2" and only about half way up the front slope.
It took us 25 min and I only used that one quart and presto, we were done!
Having 2 people I think made this a pretty easy job.
Thanks to everyone's suggestions. Hopefully this may help others.
Will steel flex plug small cracks and seal small weeping rivets ?? And is just one coat enough protection I'm curious ?? I use the boat in the salt water mainly bays and coves
Welcome Aboard, Tuna !

this is a photo of the bottom of my aluminum boat with solid rivets.
the SteelFlex was applied over the existing rivets before I bought it.
I have no idea if they leaked before the SteelFlex or after.
so - it really depends on how much flex you have in your hull and
how rough any previous owners pounded it in rough waters.
IMHO - all leakers should be fixed (rebuck the rivets) prior to application of any bottom coating.
Dale recommends the G/Flex-650 epoxy made by West System and
our local Motor Guru (Pappy) recommends Super Glue to slow leakers prior to any coating.
and others have recommended Gluvit for the interior sealing process.
jus my Dos Centavos

leaking rivets 001.JPG

Bigtuna19 said:
Will steel flex plug small cracks and seal small weeping rivets ?? And is just one coat enough protection I'm curious ?? I use the boat in the salt water mainly bays and coves
I'd use the G-Flex 650, only $20 for a 2-part 4-ounce (each bottle) kit around here (Nor'East US). You will only be mixing a capfull of each to do a ton of rivets. Use a little heat, as shown in link below, to allow it to weep in.

Not only is this a more co$t effective way to do what YOU need, you can get it locally and it stays adhered even when flexed.

See: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40954

I have a few embedded links in there, so look at all of them, as one specifically addresses patching holes.

Be aware all epoxies (less special mixes) are prone to degradation to UV exposure, so topcoat it if you can. On the bottom, I just clean off the anti-fouling paint well (if used) make the seal and top-coat with new paint. But I moor my boats 24/7, so they need the AF paint.
Ok, everyone. I have a 21 foot bayrunner that needs help. It has a lot of saltwater corrosion and pin holes. I am retired and on a fixed income so I thought I would patch the holes then coat the bottom of the boat to the water line with Flex Coat. What are your thoughts? I have been told to weld it but I looked into it and it was way to expensive. so I am looking for other options, and ideas?
Read the Thread all the way threw. Tons of quality information, and helpful tips. Still going with my plan, less the "super slick" on the bottom - Changing up, & going with the steel flex for both interior and exterior. The squeegee idea, and two people to take on the task, along with 10 oz. increments measuring was very helpful. Working on the pigment color is still being evasive to me, but will nail it down shortly. Looking for the "Dessert Storm" background color for my pigment.
Now doing the homework on GLUV IT for the interior.
Thanks a bunch!!!!!