fireshadow
Active member
just got the phone with fasco and I have to say that they have some of the best customer service i have dealt with in a long time. Totaly makes up for not being able to pay buy credit card.
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sixshootertexan
Well-known member
Ok it seems that everyone mixes small amounts at a time while applying steelflex. I got 5oz dixie cups to measure from. 5oz from each container for a total of 10oz. 2 questions.
1. Does this stuff set up that fast or is it that hard to mix? (viscosity)
2.What's the most recommended amount to mix? I'm a one man operation around here.
PS I'm getting all the tools that are recommended in all post I've read.
1. Does this stuff set up that fast or is it that hard to mix? (viscosity)
2.What's the most recommended amount to mix? I'm a one man operation around here.
PS I'm getting all the tools that are recommended in all post I've read.
Henry Hefner
Well-known member
sixshootertexan said:
It is like trying to stir honey. I wouldn't want to try it by hand. I used the Harbor Freight stirrer that goes in your drill. It worked well.
10 to 14 oz. is all I mixed at a time. (I worked by myself) I may have been able to use more before it set up, but I was comfortable with this amount.
fireshadow
Active member
I just did mine by myself. Mixed 8oz at a time. Worked out good. It was a total mess to pour out of the cans into the mixing cups. Spread really well with the bondo spreaders and had a lot more working time than expected. I don't want to do it again for a while though. Definitely watch if you use foam rollers, took a bit to pick all the foam out from the first one. And acetone will clean work for cleaning up if you get to it before it drys on your tools and hands. Overall not as hard as I expected doing it alone.
levron41
Member
I turned the heaters on in the garage this weekend and finally applied the steelflex to my boat!!! From what I've read on here everyone mixes the pigment with the hardner and not the liquid. Wellllllll, I did the opposite and mixed it with the entire can of liquid. Everything seemed to be fine. It all gets mixed together anyways right?????? I applied it way to thick but in retrospect it only needed one coat when i was done with it :mrgreen: The only bad thing about it is now it will probably take a week to cure.
All in all steelflex was not to bad to work with. My dad mixed and I pushed it around. Definitely recommed a partner!!
All in all steelflex was not to bad to work with. My dad mixed and I pushed it around. Definitely recommed a partner!!
tfizzle172
Active member
Guys,
I have seen scattered posts about wether or not you can use SteelFlex over top of 3M 5200, but no real info from replies. We have a small crack we need to fix and want to seal up some seeping rivets. Will the Steelflex adhere to the 5200?
Also, I have seen scattered posts on concerns about steelflex chipping....anyone have actual experience with this before we put the money into it?
Thanks,
Fizz
I have seen scattered posts about wether or not you can use SteelFlex over top of 3M 5200, but no real info from replies. We have a small crack we need to fix and want to seal up some seeping rivets. Will the Steelflex adhere to the 5200?
Also, I have seen scattered posts on concerns about steelflex chipping....anyone have actual experience with this before we put the money into it?
Thanks,
Fizz
levron41
Member
If i was you, I would steelflex from the outside and hit it with some 5200 on the inside. It seems to me that steelflex would stick to anything! Let the experts chime in but I really think steelflex would stick to ice :roll:
Troutman3000
Well-known member
If the rivets are loose and continue to move when the hull flexes it will chip or break. I would use gluv it on the inside of the boats to help with or eliminate leaking rivets only after rebucking them. I had first hand experience with the steel flex cracking and chipping around loose rivets. If sealing them is your main concern you should use gluv it. Steel Flex will add protection to rivets that arent under a lot of stress.
Troutman3000
Well-known member
levron41 said:
You wont have any problems with it sticking. I steel flexed over 5200 with no problem.
So you guys say if you beach it alot, it might not hold up. What about ice? My boat is, and for the most part will remain, a duck hunting boat. Up here in MN, late in the season ice is just expected. If I'll be pushing through that every year, is it really worth while to try and put anything on the bottom? I thought about hitting the couple leaky rivets and then steelflexing it, but now I'm not so sure. Maybe sealing it and then doing some sort of sealant on the inside would be better? The aluminum flexs..flexes..(how do you spell that one?).. bends (we'll use that) I know because if I step up to the bow, you can feel it bend under your feet. Add to that, the boat is pretty rickety and wobbly since the middle bench is out (and I don't plan on putting one in).
Troutman3000
Well-known member
If you are looking for a sealer you need to look at GLUV IT. Treat the inside and not the outside if you are going to be beaching it all the time. The steelflex will chip and break trust me. If its just a few leaky rivets use 5200 in the inside and call it done. If its more than that try some gluv it.
ok..so you are say'n the steel flex WILL chip and crack if it is beached..my buddy says the steel flex is the only way to go but now I dont know if its worth the $$ if it will chip and crack. As far as a sealer im thinking if you only seal the inside only you wont be able to get that small area between the rivet and the floor brace??? What about just putting 5200 or jb weld on the leakers (on the bottom) then cover the bottom of the boat w/ a few thick coats of a good oil base paint or even an epoxy style paint like the stuff they put on the garage floors?? I think a few GOOD coats of an oil base paint on top of the 5200 or jb weld will do just as good as steel flex and the cost will be lower...We are at the point of painting and just dont know what to do..We need everyone to chime in on this one..check out our mod..16' ouchita mod 3 guys with some beers
Troutman3000
Well-known member
Gluv it is an epoxy that seaps (sp) into the seams and rivet areas from the inside. It is also slightly flexible after it dries so that it wont crack or break, however it isnt uv protected so you have to paint over it. Read on iboats what everyone thinks about it. Steelflex will chip and crack if its hit hard enough or if the hull flexes too much.
sixshootertexan
Well-known member
One more question.
Is it necessary to apply 2 coats?
Is it necessary to apply 2 coats?
tfizzle172
Active member
Okay, so, besides using steelflex on the outside cause we don't want it to chip.....what would be next best/cheap thing that will last for awhile on the bottom? Troutman I know you said it will chip, but how easily? and has anyone else been rough on their steelflexed bottom and had it stand test of time? If not steelflex then what should we use?
Thanks in advance,
Fizz
Thanks in advance,
Fizz
sixshootertexan said:
In my opinion.... Absolutely
tfizzle172 said:
I don't think you're going to find a product less likely to chip if it's applied correctly.
Going off your previous post, it sounds like you need to fix some rivets and have a crack welded. Steelflex doesn't repair either. Rebucking the rivets doesn't cost anything and you could use some 5200 as insurance. If getting the crack welded isn't an option, you can use the underwater epoxy putty on the crack, 5200, and whatever additional concoction you think may work. Keep in mind, if and when the "patch" fails, how fast water will fill the boat and whether or not the potential consequences of that are worth investing in fixing the problem at the source.
If you fix the leaky rivets and weld the crack, you'll fix the problem for the same price or less of a hiding the problem with a gallon of steelflex.
tfizzle172
Active member
Brine,
I think you are exactly right, I got a buddy coming tonight to weld the boat. Is re-bucking just holding a board on one end and smacking the head with a hammer on the other?
I think you are exactly right, I got a buddy coming tonight to weld the boat. Is re-bucking just holding a board on one end and smacking the head with a hammer on the other?
You want something heavy (like a sledge hammer) to hold against the inside of the rivet, while someone taps the head of the rivet with a hammer (not a sledge hammer). A ball peen hammer would probably preserve the shape of your rivet head.
Howard
Well-known member
My 2 cents: My tin had leaky rivets and a couple of serious splits in the hull and gussets.. I had the splits and leaky rivets welded. I then applied steelflex to the hull. I now have zero leaks. I personally would not rely on any epoxy when it came to leaks unless it was absolutely the last choice. I am sure my steelflex will chip somewhat but I am fine with that. So will paint. I especially would not put epoxy on the inside of my boat.
Troutman3000
Well-known member
Howard said:
Gluv it is designed to seal boats from the inside. Do some research on it and you will find that most alluminum boat restorers on iboats love and swear by the stuff. But I think it is designed to seal leaky rivets and seams not heavily damaged areas.
If your hull is subject to flexing or being beached a lot the steel flex will fail. I applied it correctly and I had these issues within 2-3 times on the lake. The rivets leave a raised surface that is vunerable to knicks and cracks.
Steel flex is fine if you are in calmer water and wont be banging waves and what nots.
Brine and Howard are correct the only real way to fix the leaks are welds and rebucking, however even after rebucking some of my rivets they would loosen again. Then you have to install new rivets and I dont really have the skill for that on my tracker.
