grinding the boat

[Troutman3000]

This one, I put a real hurting on 2 of these at 20.00 each... You absolutely have to wear safety glasses as well, and make sure no kids or pets are within about 50'.. It doesnt hurt to wear some sort of apron either, these things have little projectiles that fly...

I'll look at tractor supply then.

 

[Troutman3000]

This one then right?


https://www.tractorsupply.com/other-grinding-cutoff-tools/mibro-knotted-wire-cup-brush-4-x-5-8-in-11-3822184?ddkey=https%3AClickInfo&evtype=CpgnClick&intv_id=15001&mpe_id=12075&cm_cr=No%20Campaign-_-Web%20Activity-_-Cross%20Sell%20Up%20Sell-_-ProductDetail_Espot1-_-Mibro%20Knotted%20Wire%20Cup%20Brush,%204%20x%205/8%20in-11


This should fit the angle grinder right?

 

[Bugpac]

yup..

 

[Troutman3000]

yup..

Thanks Man. You have been a lot of help.

 

[Nussy]

I prefer this style. You can get a mult-pack with both styles for like $10 and Harbor Freight.

 

[Troutman3000]

I prefer this style. You can get a mult-pack with both styles for like $10 and Harbor Freight.

I ordered that one exactly with a grinder shipped for 35.00 bones. You cant beat that.

 

[Bugpac]

It will work well. Just be carefull as you can put a lot of pressure in one spot with that style...

 

[Andy]

Make sure your wire wheel will match the rpm of the grinder... A grinder can put out some VERY hi rpm making those little wire bristles mini projectiles that will stick into about anything.... Make sure you wear eye protection and thick clothes.......

 

[rusmir]

Grinder at harbor freight. 18.00 bucks and the aychments 10.00. Total pf 32.00 bucks

 

[Nussy]

Make sure your wire wheel will match the rpm of the grinder... A grinder can put out some VERY hi rpm making those little wire bristles mini projectiles that will stick into about anything.... Make sure you wear eye protection and thick clothes.......

No lie!!!! Glasses and a Respirator are a must!!!! Also while at Harbor Freight get a pair of their gloves for like $10. The ones I bought were blue/black and they saved my hands on numerous accounts with the wire wheels.

 

[rusmir]

Hahaha. I had that expirience just now wires kept falling of and hitting my hand . Gloves glasrs and painteres rasperator is a must .

 

[rusmir]

finally got everything grinded down and removed some bolts that were rusted. now its the next step to get my welding done.. hopefully by next week ill have the welding done and it will be redy for primer

 

[MeanMouth]

On my first boat, I used the etching primer, then regular primer, then paint. On the one I'm doing now, I put the paint directly on the etching primer and I actually think that worked better.

I chose to etch prime it first because it's a spray. That way I didn't have to tape anything off and if I oversprayed where they steelflex was going it didnt matter. Then I steelflexed the bottom, then I painted over the primer last. Other than the etching primer, I did everything with a 4 inch foam roller and I think it turned out pretty well.

So what attachemt do you use on the grinder?

Once you grind you dont need to prime where the steel flex goes correct?

Can you paint over the Steelflex?

THANKS

JASON

To get the paint off of the boat, you can strip it with Aircraft Stripper or use a grinder. If you choose to grind it (like rusmir did), then you can buy any "paint removing disc" that you can find. I have heard the "twisted" attachments work well. Here's a couple pics so you have an idea.

and

For the steelflex, it's supposed to help eliminate minor leaks. It's applied directly to the bare aluminum as most have done, but according to this thread, it can also be applied to a roughed up, painted surface.

As far as painting over the steelflex, that will have to be answered by someone else. Since it's an epoxy, there should be certain limitations. I have seen people adding "pigment" to the steelflex, but this too will have to be confirmed.

 

[rusmir]

Correct

 

[Nick Jones]

Man I hate I didn’t read this post before you did all of that work. I am actually surprised that someone didn’t tell you that you don’t have to completely strip the paint off the boat where you are steelflexing.

The guy at Fasco actually recommends you leave the paint on. It supposedly bonds better. Of course, you have to rough it up. the stuff is so thick on the bottom that you won’t be able tell where the paint lines are.

As far as being able to paint over it, I ran my steelflex half way up the sides of my boat. I roughed up the sides last weekend with 150 sandpaper and re-primed it. I have not seen any problems so far. My Advantage max 4 stencils should be delivered tomorrow so after I get that done I will let you know how it bonded.

 

[rusmir]

Oo nice , i decided to do steelflex just on the bottom thats it not the. Sides . I ordered some stencelsmy self . Its ranimg till thursday so ill just wait till it stops so i can continue But ill gwt the welding done and transom replacment ,! Keep us updated. How yours turned out

 

[dyeguy1212]

what stencils did you end up getting rusmir

 

[MeanMouth]

Lookin' good rusmir! Glad you were able to start your project my friend. I just ordered some brazing rods for the rivet holes, then maybe I'll finally be able to get some work done!

Keep us updated!

 

[rusmir]

I ordered the one of ebay march duck xl . Its pretty cool lokking and i will also add some of my costume work with airbrush . :mrgreen:


https://cgi.ebay.com/Terrain-Phantom-Camo-Stencil-kit-Camouflage-Stencil-2p_W0QQitemZ270529184978QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3efccbc4d2

 

[270Handiman]

I'm glad to see you guys using the stencil's before I order mine! Now hurry up and use 'em so I can see some pics!

270