Hanging off trailer?

[DarkstarCrashes]

How far is too far for a boat to hang off the back of a trailer? I am about to rebuild the bunks on my trailer, it had a 13 footer on it previously and my new 1542 is hanging off a bit. My plan is to extend the bunks so that they are 30" from the back of the trailer. I will have a 25hp Evinrude on the back of the boat. Would I be better off extending the tongue? The only reason I am apprehensive to do this is because the cost of the galvanized aluminum and my not knowing anyone who can weld aluminum.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

The best would be to lengthen the tongue. With that said I have the same issue with my trailer. I moved the winch stand forward then I put 5' long bunks that extended past the end of the trailer 24". It's not the best but it's better than having no support under the transom. I will have the tongue lengthened at some point.

 

[Bugpac]

easiest way to lengthen the tounge is to buy a bolt on tounge folder, you buy the material bolt it together and you have a folding tounge. If it was me I would actually make mine pin like a reciever, You then have a anti theft device at the same time, Cant steel it if it wont hook to the ball..

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler/Fulton/FHDPB330301.html

 

[richg99]

Yea.. you NEVER want a boat to hang over the end without support for the transom. Something called a "HOOK" in your hull can occur over time. If that does happen, you will have built in trim tabs forever. Your bow can plow in when you start running at full speed...and you will never get the proper planing from the boat's hull.

Now, some boat designs actually are made with a slight "hook" in them. The marine architect who designed the boat has the training and expertise to determine when that is a good thing. However, if your boat didn't come with a hook designed into it...then you don't want to add one .....due to non-support. regards, Rich

p.s. More discussion on Hook in hull...https://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/007236.html

 

[screwballl]

If you plan to store and travel with the motor on it at all times them it needs at least support from the bunks within 12-16" from the transom. If you plan to keep the motor off most of the time then it will be fine as is.

My 1436 hangs off the back of my trailer close to 4 ft and off the end of the bunks about 3 ft, but I also do not store any weight back there during travel or storage.

 

[DarkstarCrashes]

Thanks for the help guys.

I have been looking at the foldaway tongue. I have an extra length of 3" steel tube (same as is on the tongue). Would it be safe to sleeve the two pieces together with a piece of 3 1/2 square tubing, bolt it, and then get a reinforcing weld a little later?

 

[crazymanme2]

I'd sleave it foot & a half each way,2 bolts each side (1/2") your done.

 

[chavist93]

If you decide to go with the folding tounge send me a pm. I have one thats only been bolted on, still like brand new. I bought it for the same reason as you, but I ended up buying a new trailer so I no longer need it.

 

[Hanr3]

Id put the bunks past the transom. To strengthen the bunks use 2 pieces of 2x lumber per bunk. Form them into a T.

 

[FSNMachine]

The other thing you may want to consider is towing tongue weight. If the boat is too far back you may not get enough weight on your tongue. You should have 10 to 15 percent of the total wieght on the tongue. Fotr example if the boat and trailer weight 1000 lbs the tongue weight should be 100 to 150 lbs.

 

[screwballl]

The other thing you may want to consider is towing tongue weight. If the boat is too far back you may not get enough weight on your tongue. You should have 10 to 15 percent of the total wieght on the tongue. Fotr example if the boat and trailer weight 1000 lbs the tongue weight should be 100 to 150 lbs.

That is fine and dandy on campers and heavier trailers over 1000 lbs, but with these 150 lb boats and 200 lb trailers, there is not really any need for balancing like that unless you have a heavier motor on the transom, then batteries and some weight up front is there to help save the transom, not so much the weight distribution on the trailer since these are odd shaped and hard to distribute the weight evenly.
At least that is how I learned about towing trailers, and when you are looking at around 750 lbs or more, it usually helps to have around 60-70% of the weight on the tongue or at least above or slightly forward of the axle. I have a 3000 lb popup camper when loaded that has around 70% between the axle and front edge of the camper itself, which comes to approx. 30% reliant on the tongue itself.

 

[FSNMachine]

Yea I hear you on the weight distribution of something this small. I moved mine 14' Sylvan up on the trailer up so the whole package is short enough to be stored in the garage. The other toys take up the driveway. My other boat and trailer weigh about 6000 lbs. The axles are almost too far back as tongue weight is over 1000 Lbs. see pic.

 

[Hanr3]

Nice toy.

 

[screwballl]

Yea I hear you on the weight distribution of something this small. I moved mine 14' Sylvan up on the trailer up so the whole package is short enough to be stored in the garage. The other toys take up the driveway. My other boat and trailer weigh about 6000 lbs. The axles are almost too far back as tongue weight is over 1000 Lbs. see pic.

I have seen trailers bend/twist along the tongue when boats are that far forward. Usually it happens just as you are pulling the trailer out of the water after loading the boat itself onto the trailer.

 

[FSNMachine]

Screwball,
Since that pic was taken I have moved both axles forward taking a lot of weight off the tongue.

 

[screwballl]

Screwball,
Since that pic was taken I have moved both axles forward taking a lot of weight off the tongue.

Cool!

I mentioned that because with all the saltwater boats/trailers around here, some people think moving them back like that is better... untill it twists/breaks the tongue :mrgreen:

 

[Yerba1]

Thanks for your post. I am doing the same thing on my new trailer. My 14ft clean one owner has a broken "rib" at the stern because the "bunks" were 2 foot 2x4s mounted "skinny edge up". I welded the trailer's corners, pounded out the stern "dent" and mounted the bunks. I paid $400 for the whole set up - and $50 for 2x6s and four mounting braces. I'll have 24" to 30" of hangover when it's done. When the trailer isn't holding the tin boat - it transports a 16 foot fiberglass canoe (which weighs much more than the boat). Thanks for all the suggestions from everyone - again.

 

[dave shady]

So in Summary should the bunks be FLUSH with back of the Trans?

Right now im about 2" from them being flush on my Lund 18' Cant move forward
as the previous owner WELDED the stand inplace and bolted it....

The bunks now are about 6" past the end of the trailer. I can unscrew them
and move back 2" the next time the Tub is off the trailer. Is it Necessary? or
is close good enuf?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I would go ahead and repostion the bunks.

 

[parkerdog]

So in Summary should the bunks be FLUSH with back of the Trans?

Right now im about 2" from them being flush on my Lund 18' Cant move forward
as the previous owner WELDED the stand inplace and bolted it....

The bunks now are about 6" past the end of the trailer. I can unscrew them
and move back 2" the next time the Tub is off the trailer. Is it Necessary? or
is close good enuf?

Got an angle grinder? You could always grind off the weld and shoot some touch up paint on it.