Harbor Freight boat trailer

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Just got my HF boat trailer delivered this evening from Fed Ex, the packaging looks kind of rough, hope everything is there, 3 boxes but pretty beat up cardboard and lots of packing tape. I will unpack after dinner and check the parts list. Fingers are crossed. Other than running the wires through the frame rails first, any other tips or suggestions?
 
I actually ran the wires last and had no problems. Just make sure that you use the right bolts for each step. A few of them look similar but are different. I also had a picture downloaded from the website available as a reference because some of the instructions are a bit sketchy. Once you get going, it's pretty easy.
 
Thanks for the advise, i will knock this out when i get home from work tomorrow. Doesnt look too complicated but will definitely sort the bolts, might even take the parts breakdown to the hardware store and pick up stainless before the i start. I laid everything out and it really doesnt look like much in the photo. I was like...is that it? I will post the final pic tomorrow night. Not going to use the bunks it came with and make my own fixed long slides for better support.

2012-04-11_21-01-42_41.jpg
 
You could buy stainless if you wanted to, but it's not all that necessary for the trailer. If it's going to rust, the steel frame will rust first, in my opinion.
 
sith said:
I bought this trailer from HF for $279. If you buy this trailer have 3/8" washers on hand. The mods I did to it and the missing bolts cost me an extra $60 plus another $96 to get it registered in Minnesota. I hate the way the factory bunks work with only one bolt holding it. It just didn't look stable when I tested the boat on there. My dad and spent half a day modifying the design. I just started work on my restoration and conversion on the Starcraft, hope to have some pictures up soon.

As others mentioned, the winch post needs to be moved toward the hitch quite a bit. The end of the bunk should be at the transom, or a little past. You might have to move the jack too, and shorten bow stop.

I'd also recommend adding a roller under the bow to better support the boat, especially if you start adding allot of equipment in the bow.
 
one of the guys at my work suggested i drill a series of small holes on the bottom side of the frame rails to allow drainage. I think this is a good idea as it would also allow you to spray wd40 or something similar into the rails for rust prevention. I was also able to get all stainless hardware using the included parts list as a guide, this might be overkill but if i ever need to replace a rail i know i will be able to unbolt it in the future.
 
ok i was able to get the trailer 90% done and used all stainless hardware. not sure why they only use a few washers in the original kit, i used them on both sides of each bolt, seems like it is much stronger that way. now i just need to mount the lights, wench support, jack and design the bunks.

2012-04-12_19-52-59_238.jpg
 
Butthead said:
Have you thought about getting a trailer specifically to rebuild? As long as the frame is straight and not cracked or rusted out, everything else can be replaced on it.

You can get complete axle and spring assemblies for about $200 shipped, possibly cheaper locally.
Wheels for about $80 (Walmart or HF)
HF LED lights for $50
Coupler for $20 or less (Amazon)
Fenders $30
Carpeted bunk boards with brackets $50

and you have more than the $329 for the harbor freight one. anybody have any problems with the HF trailer. it does only have 8 inch tires so wouldn't really want to go across country with it but for local and short trips, why not?
bumpy
 
DyerBassman said:
I got that same coupon emailed to me. I was waiting for that trailer to go on sale, too, but that coupon is worth it's weight in gold! I plan on ordering one by tomorrow before the deal expires!

I just checked the standard 20% off coupon that is in every sunday magazine/sales flyers,etc. and didn't see any exclusion for boat trailers. when they go on sale, is it any cheaper than with 20% off?
bumpy
 
dandabald said:
Butthead said:
Carpeted bunk boards with brackets $50

Where to get the carpeted bunks with brackets? I bought the HF boat trailer & there were no bunks in the kit - need bunks & brackets.

Thanks in advance . . . . .

check out comments on the trailer on the HF web site. missing parts is a common complaint. but just fuss and they will send them.
bumpy
 
sith said:
I bought this trailer from HF for $279. If you buy this trailer have 3/8" washers on hand. The mods I did to it and the missing bolts cost me an extra $60 plus another $96 to get it registered in Minnesota. I hate the way the factory bunks work with only one bolt holding it. It just didn't look stable when I tested the boat on there. My dad and spent half a day modifying the design. I just started work on my restoration and conversion on the Starcraft, hope to have some pictures up soon.

if you still tow that long a boat on it I would certainly slide it forwards a bit and extend the bunks. if you tow that with an outboard motor on the back it is going to put a bend in the bottom floor.
bumpy
 
Dockside85 said:
sith said:
The mods I did to it and the missing bolts cost me an extra $60 plus another $96 to get it registered in Minnesota.

It costs $96 to register a trailer in Minnesota?? I just registered my new trailer in GA for $12, and that included the license plate! You guys get jipped big time up there!

Virginia has a permanent tag for trailers, about $76 IIRC but good for life and no continuously required renewals.
bumpy
 
JaxJonBoat said:
I am a little nervous now after seeing your 12 footer on the trailer. I have an alumacraft 1447 and my trailer will be here thursday. I may have to get a tongue extender. :-(

yep, extend the tongue or the bunks.
bumpy
 
kylebacc said:
Dockside85 said:
Is the winch post placement adjustable on the HF trailer? Looks like it could move further up towards the jack so less of the boat hangs off the back.

Anything is adjustable with the right tools. Take this 4Runner, for example:

3.jpg


:mrgreen:

Haha! Seriously though, it doesn't look "adjustable," per se. But I bet a little work with a sawzall and a welder could make it the way you wanted it.

that looks to me like the standard winch post mount. just loosen two or three bolts and slide it on the tongue. just be sure you won't hit it with a car when turned sharply.
bumpy
 
I've seen a number of the harbor freight boat trailers already this season for anyone visiting this post, they seem almost exactly like the galvanized trailer I bought off of craigslist and rebuilt except painted. I have a HF utility trailer and it does what I need it to do with no issues. Doing it over, I'd would have bought the HF trailer and a can of bed liner, only because that red powder coat fades to dirty pink quickly. I recommended it to my buddy when he was looking for a boat and trailer last week, but he walked into a sweet deal and didn't need one.
 
I've bought a lot of Harbor Freight tools over the years to use in home garage/hobby use. Before I purchased them, I would often inquire on various websites and get mixed reviews, many times by folks that hadn't ever actually owned the tool.

I got on one woodworking website where many of the hobby woodworkers used HF woodworking and other tools. What I found out is how to read someone's expectations of tools and that many HF tools were quite decent for the price, especially for home owner use. The tools could also be improved very easily for very little money.

I have quite an extensive home shop of tools now, most from HF. With many of the tools, I took them apart, cleaned the interior, inspected them and lubed them with American lubes. This eliminated most of the problems people had complained about the tool on the web. On tools I got that were junk even with cleanup/inspection, I simply returned. If I had to buy "the best" or "name brand" tools, I wouldn't have owned very many tools. Couldn't afford it.

I just checked the HF website on their boat trailer offering. Biggest real complaint was missing nuts and bolts. Since the bolts are not likely to be stainless steel, I would probably replace them anyways. Most all the reviews were positive with most owners happy with their purchase. I would grab a 20% off coupon, wait till the trailer is on sale and get one if I needed a trailer and there were few in the local area.

What I learned from the experience is HF has many "gems" if one takes the time to research. These days, they have reviews of the stuff they sell on their website. If you take the time to read each review carefully, closely watching for not only what they say about the tool, but their experience and expectations, often times you will get a good idea of how the tool will perform in advance.

IF I needed a trailer and couldn't find one in my area, I would go to the HF website, look over their trailer offerings and find out what the reviews have to say. If many of the reviews are good, I would certainly buy one. By the way, read carefully the negative reviews and see if it's a trailer problem, a packaging problem, a lack of mechanical ability problem or an expectation problem that causes the negative review. This helps a lot in sorting out the real meaning of their number of stars rating. To be honest, I no longer go by the stars rating, I just reach all the reviews and see what the reviews tell me. Hasn't failed me yet.
Just my .02,
 
DyerBassman said:
I picked up a 1969 12' Alumacraft last year at an estate sale for next to nothing. After a summer of loading it on the truck, I really want a trailer for it. I also want to start a mod after looking at all the outstanding jobs that people have done on their boats. But I need that trailer first. After searching Craigslist all winter and finding nothing worthwhile, I am looking into Harbor Freight's small boat trailer. Anyone have this trailer, and is it worthwhile? Pros and cons? Thanks! Can't wait to start my mods.
I bought the HF trailers and it was a fun project to put together.
There were just enough parts. No more, no less. The instructions really could use an educated American to write them up, and draw the views larger. That was my biggest complaint. I bought the trailer because my 12' boat is 52" wide, the trailer is 52" wide. The place I park it is accessible only through a 54" gap between the garage and house. So that works good. The trailer is a freshwater trailer, I wouldn't get it anywhere near salt, nor would I tow it when there is salt on our NY roads. The wheels are only 8 inch but it tows nice. just keep an eye over heating the bearings. I did have to get a new connector for the lights to the truck. What came with the trailer was not compatible with what was on my Mazda. For $400. plus tax I think it is a good buy. My boat was $150, my 5 HP sea king motor was $50. and all is good.
 
I've had my 14' V on this trailer since I built it this spring. Making the bunks longer for the 14' is the only way to go. I have moved everything around and the only option was to extend them by a couple of feet off the back to support the transom. While doing that I also added them all the way up the front and secured them there as well. It removes the whole tilting action that they want to do while loading and unloading the boat if you keep them stock. I also didn't like how they had the access holes at the bottom for the wiring. I added some holes where the tongue meets the angle supports so they don't come out the bottom and have the slight possibility of getting hung up and torn off. I also did this for the where the wires come out for the tail lights.
 

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