LonLB
Well-known member
overboard said:
So you are setting upper and lower limits, or depth range zoom??
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How essential is a fish finder?
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So you are setting upper and lower limits, or depth range zoom??
JBooth
Well-known member
It's not essential but defiantly helps especially if you are fishing in an area for the first time. I would try to find one lightly used for cheap. It's worth the investment if you can find one for cheap.
GreatWhite
Active member
Love mine....a Humminbird Pirahnamax170....I know the inlets and such on my lake by heart, but have found alot of structure and vegetation well offshore, I would never have known about....
And always fun & 'gee whiz' to see depth and surface temps...
And always fun & 'gee whiz' to see depth and surface temps...
overboard
Well-known member
not really. just using it in normal mode, and following shallow contures by watching depth. troll mostly jointed rebels for walleyes.LonLB said:
Bhockins
Well-known member
The Mark 5 is a great unit for what you describe. I had one and eventually got a higher Lowrance with all the bells and whistles. You'll be able to learn everything you'd want about fish finders from it. Great for seeing structure and checking depth.
For me, the electronics just adds to the enjoyment. Interesting to check it each time you run across a "hot spot" and see what kinds of patterns emerge.
For me, the electronics just adds to the enjoyment. Interesting to check it each time you run across a "hot spot" and see what kinds of patterns emerge.
PSG-1
Well-known member
It's nice to know the water depth or temperature, and to be able to see structure, but as far as being able to catch more fish with a fishfinder, not sure what to say. I've fished for many years without one, and caught a lot of fish without one, and I've caught fish with a fishfinder, so I cannot definitively say whether or not it makes a lot of difference.
CodyPomeroy
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I do most of my fishing in medium size river, and the finder is very usefull. I use it to help me find the channel, but also find holes, drop-offs, points, etc... It also helps me gauge the fluctuations, so I know where the fish might be. Mine is older, and doesn't have temp (which I wish it did). I did get it for free, so I am not complaining.
BaitCaster
Well-known member
Hooky1420 said:
If you had a fish finder you might find some productive deeper water to fish. That's what happened to me.
Captain Ahab
Well-known member
BaitCaster said:
Maybe not - he is fishing swamps that might only get 15-20 feet deep if there is lots of rain
I fish a lake here that is shallow and weed choked and the FF is useless there. On everything else it is more important then hooks to catching fish
aeviaanah
Well-known member
Where is a good place to mount a fish finder unit? Where is your fish finder mounted?
Bhockins
Well-known member
I have mine on 6' cable so I can move it from in front of the drivers seat to the front of the boat by the trolling motor. I have plastic mounts in both places so I can just snap it out of one and into the other. Works great!
BaitCaster
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CodyPomeroy
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jasper60103
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rusty.hook said:
Yep, I used 5200.
LunaticFringeInc
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Is it neccessary? No.
Is it worth it? Yeah I think so.
Allow me to explain...
First off, when your out fishing it really helps to confirm what you thought and that there really are some fish where your tossing your bait. I really like to know there are fish there today and more importantly what depth they are holding at per chance I can get a bait down to them and see if they are hungry today.
Second, while you mentioned you know the water pretty well and you fish the structure you can see and do pretty well, most other folks fish the same exact spots. The few fish on that easy to find and see structure have seen more baits tossed at them than you can find at a Bass Pro store! I generally fish from a kayak and I cant buzz around back and forth all day all over the lake like I am a pachinco ball. That means I have to fish smarter. I am notorious for fishing in the wake of 40K plus Bass Battle Wagons. They have already tossed baits to the obvious structure and came up empty handed or with yet another dink. However often times a short distance away from the obvious cover is the not so obvious stumps just below the surface. I have cast these and ripped some pretty nice 4-8 pounders out of there right after a team of bass fisherman just "worked" that area over only to see them shaking their heads and mumbling under their breath in disgust, realizing they missed out on a good fish. I wouldn't have found or known about these hidden submerged structures unless the lake level dropped considerably or if I hadn't have had a fish finder to locate them with.
Another case in point...I have located a number of Crappie spots that will yield slabs about 10 months out of the year by the stringer load. They are all in 14-18ft of water out in the open water with no hint of structure to be found above the surface...unless you got a fish finder its doubtful you'd have know they were there! Better yet is the fact that I rarely have another boat pull up and anchor in the area and give me competition, so I pretty much have them all to myself.
Do you need an expensive set up or side imaging? Its nice to have but no.
I have a couple of Cuda 242's that I bought for well under half price on clearance when they were normally retailing for about 90 fun dollars. Nothing fancy about them, not a lot of whistles and bells, but they work just fine for locating submerged structure and seeing if there is anything on them. Yeah a higher quality unit or side imaging will give you a more accurate picture of exactly whats below but generally just having the ability to know there is structure below is plenty good enough to get you into fish.
bcbouy
Well-known member
a fishfinder that shows the thermocline is worth every penny.
id say it depends on how much experience, how often and how serious you fish, for a guy who fishes just to get out and relax and catch a few fish then i would say get a cheap one for contour and depth. if you eat, sleep and think about fishing every second of your life like i do then you already know wich kind to get.....the kind you can only slightly not afford. if you have a 1000-2000$ sonar and dont know how to use it its senseless to have it and a waste of money. ive got a HB 1197 on the bow and a 798 on the back. my buddys tell me its over kill but i catch a lot more than when i had just one or two cheaper units. i also have an auqa veiw that ive learned so much from watching them on camera and my DI or SI as to what im actually seeing on the screen as to what kind of mood they are in. its been priceless to me. oh one more thing, the cheaper units may be showing fish on the screen but dont rely on them too much even with the fish symbols turned off. the crystals(or crystal) in their transducers are not very good quality and the head units do not have that much power, ive used my camera in a buddys boat where he was marking fish all over the place and there was nothing there. and seen lots of fish on camera when he was not marking them....
p.s. yes i know my electronics are worth more than my boat, i love the boat i have and dont want a bigger or better one. everybody asks me that all the time.......just in case you were wondering.
p.s. yes i know my electronics are worth more than my boat, i love the boat i have and dont want a bigger or better one. everybody asks me that all the time.......just in case you were wondering.
azekologi
Well-known member
Ok, I've been thinking about FFs ever since this Wired2fish Lowrance contest started, perhaps a few times before that.
Personally, I've never used one, never had one, or really ever thought that one would be worth the money. Lately I've been evaluating some of my fishing techniques and was wondering if one would make for more productive outings.
The three closest lakes that I fish have average depths of 60, 40, and 25 feet. The "far" lake that I fish has an average depth of 40 feet. The closer lakes are in the NF, managed by Game and Fish, the "far" lake is on the Indian Reservation, managed by the Indians.
Every time I go to the Indian lake, we always have a productive trip, at the closer lakes, it'***** and miss.
My buddies and I are "one species" fisherman, angling for trout. Our usual MO is to rig up cowbells or ford fenders on 4-6lb bulk line, then tie a 18-24" flurocarbon leader using a #12 or #10 baitholder hook w/ a 2-4" night crawler hanging off the end. Toss 'em in, let 'em out 100-300ft, troll the lake in an "S" pattern, and wait for hits periodically checking the line for leader tangles, freshness of bait, etc.
I can usually run 2-3 trolling rigs off my tin, so we always have at least 1-2 lines in the water.
Over the years I've p/u'd a few different bells/fenders giving me a nice assortment of different colored spoons (gold, silver, painted) with different reflectors (gold, silver, red, nothing), sometimes with different textures (hammered vs. smooth), in different sizes (baby bells vs. giant bells). I try to mix it up when I'm out there using the gold/silver for clearer water conditions, and the painted (orange, rainbow, etc.) for murkier conditions. As I said above, I can't go wrong at the Indian lake, but the other lakes it's so-so no matter when I go in the season (beginning, middle, or end).
This last year I've spiced it up a little bit based on some info I've got from local anglers. I've used spoons and rooster tails off the leader w/ the bells, both with and without night crawlers. Generally speaking, the lone hook is better than an additional lure.
I've been wanting to get a good bait-caster reel and delve into the 'bass addiction', so I've been experimenting with some top-water stuff for trout to see how it would go and have had pretty good success. The Rebel cricket hoppers (floater/diver per the package) seem to attract the trout, and I have those in a few crickets and crawdads in 'hot' colors. I've even weighted them down with shot sending them to deeper depths and trolling with them at ultra low speeds...works, but not that much data if it was a fluke or not.
For the most part, I use the Rebel stuff when we're trolling the bells and we come near shore, an alcove, or some visible structure (stumps, downed trees, etc.) then cast in the desired area, reel in, recast, etc.
Anyway, if I was to indulge in a FF...how would this help me for how I fish now?
If my trolling lure/bait is 100-300ft off my stern, buy the time I see the fish on the finder, they could be gone by the time my lure even gets to them. Right?
Other than speed, how can I use the FF to get at the right depth, if my lure/bat is that far back?
There's a good possibility that I'm doing something wrong, but what I have been doing makes sense (to me) and has worked for me and my buddies.
Personally, I've never used one, never had one, or really ever thought that one would be worth the money. Lately I've been evaluating some of my fishing techniques and was wondering if one would make for more productive outings.
The three closest lakes that I fish have average depths of 60, 40, and 25 feet. The "far" lake that I fish has an average depth of 40 feet. The closer lakes are in the NF, managed by Game and Fish, the "far" lake is on the Indian Reservation, managed by the Indians.
Every time I go to the Indian lake, we always have a productive trip, at the closer lakes, it'***** and miss.
My buddies and I are "one species" fisherman, angling for trout. Our usual MO is to rig up cowbells or ford fenders on 4-6lb bulk line, then tie a 18-24" flurocarbon leader using a #12 or #10 baitholder hook w/ a 2-4" night crawler hanging off the end. Toss 'em in, let 'em out 100-300ft, troll the lake in an "S" pattern, and wait for hits periodically checking the line for leader tangles, freshness of bait, etc.
I can usually run 2-3 trolling rigs off my tin, so we always have at least 1-2 lines in the water.
Over the years I've p/u'd a few different bells/fenders giving me a nice assortment of different colored spoons (gold, silver, painted) with different reflectors (gold, silver, red, nothing), sometimes with different textures (hammered vs. smooth), in different sizes (baby bells vs. giant bells). I try to mix it up when I'm out there using the gold/silver for clearer water conditions, and the painted (orange, rainbow, etc.) for murkier conditions. As I said above, I can't go wrong at the Indian lake, but the other lakes it's so-so no matter when I go in the season (beginning, middle, or end).
This last year I've spiced it up a little bit based on some info I've got from local anglers. I've used spoons and rooster tails off the leader w/ the bells, both with and without night crawlers. Generally speaking, the lone hook is better than an additional lure.
I've been wanting to get a good bait-caster reel and delve into the 'bass addiction', so I've been experimenting with some top-water stuff for trout to see how it would go and have had pretty good success. The Rebel cricket hoppers (floater/diver per the package) seem to attract the trout, and I have those in a few crickets and crawdads in 'hot' colors. I've even weighted them down with shot sending them to deeper depths and trolling with them at ultra low speeds...works, but not that much data if it was a fluke or not.
For the most part, I use the Rebel stuff when we're trolling the bells and we come near shore, an alcove, or some visible structure (stumps, downed trees, etc.) then cast in the desired area, reel in, recast, etc.
Anyway, if I was to indulge in a FF...how would this help me for how I fish now?
If my trolling lure/bait is 100-300ft off my stern, buy the time I see the fish on the finder, they could be gone by the time my lure even gets to them. Right?
Other than speed, how can I use the FF to get at the right depth, if my lure/bat is that far back?
There's a good possibility that I'm doing something wrong, but what I have been doing makes sense (to me) and has worked for me and my buddies.
Captain Ahab
Well-known member
OK - I do not troll for trout in FW but trolling is trolling
I do troll for Tuna, Mariin and related pelegic species and occasionally for stripers.
So, to answer your questions:
If my trolling lure/bait is 100-300ft off my stern, buy the time I see the fish on the finder, they could be gone by the time my lure even gets to them. Right?
If you were to locate fish you could then concentrate on that area - yeah they might not be in the exact same spot (fish have tails) but they are at least in the area.
Further, the FF will tell you what depth and even what forage (bait) is present. Using my experiences as an example, if we see on the FF masses of sand eels coming off the bottom we might come off the troll to toss diamond jigs and such. If we see bunker - we might change colors and profiles to match the bait.
If we see fish 20 feet down we stay with shallow running lures - 40 feet down and we might drop in a trolling plane or add drails
Further, and this is the big advantage of having a good FF, you will see the thermocline, depth changes and structure. All three things can really improve your catch rate.
The thermocline is always key in trolling - the fish use that as a "wall" trapping bait on one side or the other. Look for distinct and establish thermocline when trolling and you will find fish.
Depth changes are also essential - the upwelling of cooler bottom water forced by sudden depth changes is a prime area for predators to look for prey - you get the micro organisms pushed up (or down) and the small fish are there to feed - followed by the big fish, and on and on.
Structure is the next element. You find submerged trees, rock piles, etc and they will hold fish. You can then troll in that area until you figure out the correct direction and speed. You want your lures down and around that structure and you want to fish them in the "correct" direction. Some days the fish will only hit a lure trolled in one direction.
Other than speed, how can I use the FF to get at the right depth, if my lure/bat is that far back?
There are a few ways. 1st, if you know the depth you can keep letting line (while at your trolling speed) out until it bumps the bottom - then reel in a few cranks and you will be just above that depth. Reel in more to go shallow and let out line to go deep. Once you know the depth a particular rig runs at with the amount of line make a note and you can be sure of where your lure is running. Adjust speed and weight to compensate.
2nd you can use the stop and drop method - again knowing the depth adjust your speed until the lure bumps bottom and then just adjust your seep until it stops. Same as above, make a note.
If using downriggers - your FF will show the depth of the cannonball at rest (it rises when trolled of course)
Finally - get a unit that tells you water temps = temp breaks can equal fish.
Hope this helps
I do troll for Tuna, Mariin and related pelegic species and occasionally for stripers.
So, to answer your questions:
If my trolling lure/bait is 100-300ft off my stern, buy the time I see the fish on the finder, they could be gone by the time my lure even gets to them. Right?
If you were to locate fish you could then concentrate on that area - yeah they might not be in the exact same spot (fish have tails) but they are at least in the area.
Further, the FF will tell you what depth and even what forage (bait) is present. Using my experiences as an example, if we see on the FF masses of sand eels coming off the bottom we might come off the troll to toss diamond jigs and such. If we see bunker - we might change colors and profiles to match the bait.
If we see fish 20 feet down we stay with shallow running lures - 40 feet down and we might drop in a trolling plane or add drails
Further, and this is the big advantage of having a good FF, you will see the thermocline, depth changes and structure. All three things can really improve your catch rate.
The thermocline is always key in trolling - the fish use that as a "wall" trapping bait on one side or the other. Look for distinct and establish thermocline when trolling and you will find fish.
Depth changes are also essential - the upwelling of cooler bottom water forced by sudden depth changes is a prime area for predators to look for prey - you get the micro organisms pushed up (or down) and the small fish are there to feed - followed by the big fish, and on and on.
Structure is the next element. You find submerged trees, rock piles, etc and they will hold fish. You can then troll in that area until you figure out the correct direction and speed. You want your lures down and around that structure and you want to fish them in the "correct" direction. Some days the fish will only hit a lure trolled in one direction.
Other than speed, how can I use the FF to get at the right depth, if my lure/bat is that far back?
There are a few ways. 1st, if you know the depth you can keep letting line (while at your trolling speed) out until it bumps the bottom - then reel in a few cranks and you will be just above that depth. Reel in more to go shallow and let out line to go deep. Once you know the depth a particular rig runs at with the amount of line make a note and you can be sure of where your lure is running. Adjust speed and weight to compensate.
2nd you can use the stop and drop method - again knowing the depth adjust your speed until the lure bumps bottom and then just adjust your seep until it stops. Same as above, make a note.
If using downriggers - your FF will show the depth of the cannonball at rest (it rises when trolled of course)
Finally - get a unit that tells you water temps = temp breaks can equal fish.
Hope this helps
