Bare hull - as shown. A few holes to be repaired. Most of them can fill with rivets, but some are oversized.
For the rivet size holes, what kind of rivet can I install easily? I have an air compressor, but not a rivet gun.
Can I install something that I can use a manual rivet gun that is a solid type rivet or do I have to use solid
aircraft rivets, air gun and bucking bar?
For loose solid rivets, I have done quite a bit of research on rebucking them. It looks like the bucking bar goes on
the inside of the rivet and the air gun/hammer is on the head (outside of the hull). If I use a pall peen hammer,
what size and how many hits should I start with and do it hit it like I am trying to drive a small nail...some force
but not full out slamming it?
For larger holes, should these be welded or can I use a carriage bolt and nut? I hate to do that, as I don't want
a big nut sticking out on the inside. What is a better option?
The ribs on this hull are close together, so I think it would support 3/8" plywood for floor. I plan to epoxy coat
the plywood, add 1 layer of glass to give it some texture and then paint top side. Glass will help stiffen it up. I
will use blue foam strips under plywood leaving some channels for water to more easily get out the back. I will
put 1/8" neoprene rubber strips over the top of the ribs so it has cushion/sound deadending between top of rib
and plywood. I know this is heavier than aluminum, but wood does not get as hot or as cold as sheet aluminum
and with the fiberglass and paint on it should be waterproof many years.
For transom - I need 1-1/2" thick wood. I can go with 3/4 plywood laminated up 2 thick or maybe just use a SYP
2 x 12 and cut it to fit the shape. I will epoxy coat either for water seal. 2x12 would be cheaper option, as the
transom is wider than 48" so i would have to buy a full sheet of plywood instead of just a half sheet.
Do I need to glue the wood to the transom with something or just bolt it in place with carriage bolts?
Thinking of painting the entire boat in tan then get some camo stencils and camo the sides and interior leaving the
bottom tan. I plan to take the trailer and have it sandblasted and then paint myself. I am restoring a 1957 Evinrude 18
tiller that will be the power. Boat has steering with rotary steering wheel. I would like to connect the motor that way,
but will need to investigate best way since it is tiller.
Want to splash by mid April, so gotta get moving. I welcome any input and some help on the questions I had.
For the rivet size holes, what kind of rivet can I install easily? I have an air compressor, but not a rivet gun.
Can I install something that I can use a manual rivet gun that is a solid type rivet or do I have to use solid
aircraft rivets, air gun and bucking bar?
For loose solid rivets, I have done quite a bit of research on rebucking them. It looks like the bucking bar goes on
the inside of the rivet and the air gun/hammer is on the head (outside of the hull). If I use a pall peen hammer,
what size and how many hits should I start with and do it hit it like I am trying to drive a small nail...some force
but not full out slamming it?
For larger holes, should these be welded or can I use a carriage bolt and nut? I hate to do that, as I don't want
a big nut sticking out on the inside. What is a better option?
The ribs on this hull are close together, so I think it would support 3/8" plywood for floor. I plan to epoxy coat
the plywood, add 1 layer of glass to give it some texture and then paint top side. Glass will help stiffen it up. I
will use blue foam strips under plywood leaving some channels for water to more easily get out the back. I will
put 1/8" neoprene rubber strips over the top of the ribs so it has cushion/sound deadending between top of rib
and plywood. I know this is heavier than aluminum, but wood does not get as hot or as cold as sheet aluminum
and with the fiberglass and paint on it should be waterproof many years.
For transom - I need 1-1/2" thick wood. I can go with 3/4 plywood laminated up 2 thick or maybe just use a SYP
2 x 12 and cut it to fit the shape. I will epoxy coat either for water seal. 2x12 would be cheaper option, as the
transom is wider than 48" so i would have to buy a full sheet of plywood instead of just a half sheet.
Do I need to glue the wood to the transom with something or just bolt it in place with carriage bolts?
Thinking of painting the entire boat in tan then get some camo stencils and camo the sides and interior leaving the
bottom tan. I plan to take the trailer and have it sandblasted and then paint myself. I am restoring a 1957 Evinrude 18
tiller that will be the power. Boat has steering with rotary steering wheel. I would like to connect the motor that way,
but will need to investigate best way since it is tiller.
Want to splash by mid April, so gotta get moving. I welcome any input and some help on the questions I had.