Mini-jacker ???

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Thanks Rich, buying a used motor is a roll of the dice and this one runs so well. This was given to me by my nephew so probally looking at cutting transom.
 
IF you happen to be anywhere close to Waycross GA....Carolina Skiffs are made there. As I said, they cut down transoms all of the time. Perhaps you can get an idea or thought from them. regards, Rich

https://www.carolinaskiff.com/about.html
 
Another piece of info you need when mounting a jack plate. A rough baseline is for every 1" of set back the motor height should be 1/2" higher. So if you use a set back of 6", ventilation plate should be approx 3" above the keel.

That is usually a good baseline to start. Application and total package combo will vary.
 
ditchen said:
Another piece of info you need when mounting a jack plate. A rough baseline is for every 1" of set back the motor height should be 1/2" higher. So if you use a set back of 6", ventilation plate should be approx 3" above the keel.

That is usually a good baseline to start. Application and total package combo will vary.

Not necessarily! That "standard" started when plates were used mainly on faster deep V hulls (the old Gil brackets) and spread to the Bass market where the engines had specialized propellers and water pick-ups. Way not true on a small flat bottomed aluminum hull that may have an engine with a water pick-up at the rear bottom of the cavitaion plate or a more modern one on the side of the gearcase and well below the cav plate. These boats have no chance of airing out and running bow high like on a built in pad bottom or a 24 degree deadrise offshore hull. All rules do not apply on all boats and engines all the time. Even the 15" designation on a short shaft engine or a standard 20" is all over the place from manufacturer to manufacturer. You may find an inch or more difference between Johnson/Evinrude/Merc/Yamaha/Suziki/Nissan/Tohatsu, etc.
 
truckhuntfish said:
looks nice clark , would you trust a 30 hp motor on that ?

The one on my boat I would not. However, I would use a 30 if I beefed up the vertical plates. If they were stepped up to1/4" instead of 1/8" the riser would be plenty strong for a 30.
 
Pappy said:
ditchen said:
Another piece of info you need when mounting a jack plate. A rough baseline is for every 1" of set back the motor height should be 1/2" higher. So if you use a set back of 6", ventilation plate should be approx 3" above the keel.

That is usually a good baseline to start. Application and total package combo will vary.

Not necessarily! That "standard" started when plates were used mainly on faster deep V hulls (the old Gil brackets) and spread to the Bass market where the engines had specialized propellers and water pick-ups. Way not true on a small flat bottomed aluminum hull that may have an engine with a water pick-up at the rear bottom of the cavitaion plate or a more modern one on the side of the gearcase and well below the cav plate. These boats have no chance of airing out and running bow high like on a built in pad bottom or a 24 degree deadrise offshore hull. All rules do not apply on all boats and engines all the time. Even the 15" designation on a short shaft engine or a standard 20" is all over the place from manufacturer to manufacturer. You may find an inch or more difference between John son/Evinrude/Merc/Yamaha/Suziki/Nissan/Tohatsu, etc.

I used "rough baseline", not a standard. It is a useful guideline and I will agree with ya that "All rules do not apply on all boats and engines all the time". I also understand what hulls/outboard combos most are using here and modified v's and flat bottoms are not the same.

I wanted to point out that the further that outboard is from the transom, the optimal position will be higher then if it was directly attached to the transom without a jack plate.
 

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