Monarch 1464 Build

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squirt_0311

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I am finally ready to start working on my tin boat. It is a Monarch 1448. Not sure what year. I am really excited about it b/c I have been on here looking and getting so many great ideas from you guys. I have very little skills and I'm sure I will need a lot of help and input from all you guys. I want to build it similar to Express's Monarch build with some other cool ideas I picked up on this site. Here are my plans:

1) Rebuck rivots and leak test, fix all my leaks, Cut-out center bench/livewell
2) Rebuild Transom
3) Prep for Steelflex
4)Decking- 4-5 ft front deck, 4 ft rear deck, put in floor
- 1/2 in ext grade plywood waterproofed with Spar Urethane
- Noodles for floatation foam
- Carpet
 

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I like it, looks like you can do a lot with it! This site is a huge resource for ideas and tips. Whats the black thing mounted to your trailer? Looks like a strip of silk fencing with wood inside?
 
Not sure what the black thing was. It looks like a step from where a different boat was on trailer.
Today I took out center seat/livewell and tore out the transom someone had rebuilt with pressure treated lumber. It did a number one the top splash piece and they cut the straps to put it in. I will have to refab something to fix it.

Any ideas about what to do with drain plug in center of boat where I took out the livewell? I was thing of welding a plate over it on the bottom.
 
squirt_0311 said:
Any ideas about what to do with drain plug in center of boat where I took out the livewell? I was thing of welding a plate over it on the bottom.

Well you would have to take it to get that done. Unless you have a $4000 TIG welder you won't be able to weld aluminum. Definitely welding a plate over it would make a permanent bond, you are just going to have to pay someone to do it. Hourly shop fees for welding are about $75, so I'd plan on budgeting that much and anything less eould be money you can spend on something else. If you wanted to go the cheap way, get yourself a rivet gun for like $5 at Harbor Freight (or like $6 at Home Depot) and some 3/16" rivets. Rivet it real snug over the hole and either Steelflex over it or cover the edges and rivet heads with some marine sealant silicone. Should keep it water tight and won't rust out since it's all aluminum. That's what I'd personally do, then again I'm cheap!
 
Today I started grinding the paint away and used some stripper. Stripper is definitely the easier way to get down to the bare aluminum. I did the inside sides that will be visible and the benches. Started on the outside but will have to wait until I get some help to flip boat and finish. Oh yea, wear good rubber gloves when using aircraft stripper. It Burns!!!

Talked to my buddy and he said he will do my welding. Filled the boat up with water and marked all my leaky rivots. Rebuked them and put some new ones in where I removed the center bench. Used 3M 5200 on all new rivots and no leaks now.
 
squirt_0311 said:
Talke to my buddy and he said he will do my welding I need on the friend discount. Can't beat that.

Always good to have a friend that can weld! Post some more pictures soon.
 
Pics from yesterdays work
 

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Finally made some progress on the boat worthy of pics. Finished stripping the paint, replaced transon with 2 pieces of 3/4 in untreated plywood. Put 3 Coats of urethane on the wood and glued with Gorilla Glue. Replaced all the bolts with Stainless Bolts. Used Rivots to put the sides pieces back in and then had a friend weld up it back up. The previous owner did lots of damage to the alluminum when he replaced transom. All fixed now!

Also cut holes for cooler/Storage in benches. Think I will cut a hole in back of the rear bench to slide 6 gallon gas tank in from rear. The transom support is in the way so I ahve to do something different or buy a smaller tank.

Going to use self etching primer on inside in the morning and then paint the entire inside. Then I will bring it in the garage, flip it over and get ready for Steelflex on outside. Got to start working on the trailer too.
 

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Saved almost all the foam to put back in the boat while cutting the hatches in benches.
 

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Rear cooler will be for beverages/snacks. Front cooler is a catch all box. It was $20 as compared to buying a plastic hatch for $40.
 
Got the Gas tank hole cut so I can slide a gal tank under the seat. Cleaned the boat real good and gave it a wash down with acetone. Primed the inside w/ self etching primer.

Do I need to lightly sand the self etching primer in between coats? I think I do but didn't know if it was neccessary.
 

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Looks good so far... I like your idea of using a cooler as storage, its basically water proof and the lid is like a hatch too... I think ill incoroporate that in my design.... Thanks!
 
Your right floor is 48 but tag said 1464 so I just went with it. Think it's a late 70's early 80's model boat. I'm stoked about the build, probably take all summer to finish but it's already been great and keeps me busy when I have downtime.
 
Hope to work on the boat some more this weekend! Will be ordering steel flex grey this week for the outside. :) did a little dumpster diving yesterday when I saw two big A/C boxes on top. Got them to use as cardboard templates for plywood decking. Going to cut the rear one first since it will only cover the rear bench and overhang three inches on back and front. Pretty easy one to start with I think.
 
Made a little progress, finished painting inside and got rear deck/bench planned out. made the template. What do yall think? Will it be ok to glue a 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch piece of plywood together to use has the rear bench platform. no bracing, just screwed directly into existing bench. It has a 3 inch overhang in rear and 6 inch overhang in front. Not sure if it will hold up under pressure but I'm not making it to stand on.
 

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Been a while and not a lot accomplished. Got married and had 2 babies. But I'm back now and working on the trailer.
306cfe7cb23a18bd064a1df86ee344b5.jpg





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Wow, 4 years later lol. I like the ice chest Idea. Consider putting the snap on cushions on them for seats?

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