Painting over GLUVIT?

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MLV159

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Hello,

Question about GLUVIT. I plan on coating the bottom of my 14'
aluminum Jon boat and painting it as well. Should I apply a zinc chromate
primer over GLUVIT then paint with a marine type paint? Will it hurt it if I
do?

Now I only plan I applying GLUVIT to the bottom of the boat, not the sides.
I'm also painting the sides with a marine type paint though. Should I spray
zinc chromate primer over the whole bottom (with GLUVIT already applied)
including the sides? Or just prime the sides? Thank you
 
Are you planning on coating the outside bottom of the boat? If so, I would consider using Gluvit on the inside of your boat floor. The entire inside bottom doesn't need to be coated, just the rivets and seams. Although I haven't used it and don't plan on it, I have seen others use the Steel Flex on the outside bottom of their boat. Here is a link to my boat, in the first post there is a photo of what the gluvit looks like on the rivets. It does a very good job. https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?t=40326

To answer your question about painting, Gluvit can be overcoated with any marine paint or other coating compatible with epoxies. I don't know that you would want to use a zinc chromate primer over Gluvit, but I could be wrong. I would stick with a regular primer over the gluvit as I don't think you would need the etching part over the gluvit. You would still want some sort of self etching primer over bare aluminum.
 
yes just the bottom. The bottom is in pretty rough shape so I would like to coat it. I will look into steel flex
 
Agree ... prep/solvent wash ... then zinc chromate primer ... then GluVit or SteelFlex ... and possibly then a paint or varnish/polyurethane to protect the epoxy layer.

Typically most epoxies need to be covered to protect against damaging UV rays and I only know of 2 epoxies specially formulated (West Systems and Raka) that allegedly do not require a UV-inhibitor coating. But I have not investigated SteelFlex to this end, but Gluvit should not be directly exposed to the sun, as it will yellow, harden, age and crack off.

When I had a toona boat with 43 pieces of teak and mahogany brightwork, it was cleaned, lightly stained w/ Cetol Marine Light, then fully encapsulated in 3 coats of epoxy, with 6 or more coats of polyurethane (UV proof) on top. Every 2-3 seasons, depending on the wear and when I'd see signs of the protective top-coat weakening (crazing, like fine spider web lines) ... I'd give a quick rub down with a green Scotchbrite pad, then apply a few fast coats of the poly again.
 

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