Refurbishing my old Boat trailer

[piefoot]

I have an old 14' Sea King aluminum boat on a tilt trailer. Not sure of the year. I made the mistake of letting a family friend take my boat out. He drug it over several boulders on an old 4 X 4 goat trail. Long story short, the tilt mechanism broke and the boat and trailer was abandoned on the trail. Needless to say, I was livid and he is no longer a friend. I found the boat and trailer at around 11:00 p.m. and managed to tie the trailer together with rope to limp it home. After a little welding the trailer was fully functional but no longer tilts.

Several years have passed since then. No longer having the benefit of the tilt function, I decided the boat sits entirely too high off the ground requiring me to back out into deeper water to get it to float off the trailer. That or horsing it off by sheer muscle power and dragging it back on with the front winch. The trailer is showing its many years of devoted use and i decided it was time to give it a face lift. In the process, I want to lower the boat. I didn't think to take any "before" pictures, but as you can see in the photo below, the trailer was used for more than just hauling the tinny around.

To get the ball rolling, my son and I lifted the boat off the trailer and leaned it against the garage wall. We proceeded to strip off all the old bunks, rollers, and as much of the old tilt trailer parts as we could. There's a lot of caked on dirt and rust to deal with.

It's a start anyway. More as we go.

 

[piefoot]

I had some time this morning to add a couple more pictures to the trailer post. After considering our options, we decided to use a pressure washer to strip off the dirt, loose paint and rust. We will be using Rustoleum Rust Reformer as the first coat or two. The Rust Reformer claims to chemically bond with the old paint and rust forming a seal and preventing any further deterioration. When dry, it also provides a paintable surface.

The pressure washer removed more old paint chips and dirt than I had expected. Using the highest pressure setting available really did the job. Apparently, the trailer was once yellow. Who knew?

With attention to lowering the boat, another option was to lower the trailer itself. To accomplish this, we re-positioned the axle over the leaf springs and reversed the rear shackles. These changes dropped the trailer just over 4 inches. We were not surprised to find the leaf spring bushings were completely shot. The photos below compares the condition of the roller and bushings we removed compared to the new roller and bushings we used in the rebuild.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Reversed the shackles?

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

From the picture, it looks like the rear shackle is now flat. How will the spring lengthen as it flexes?

 

[piefoot]

Hmmm, you're right. From that angle it does look like it's flush with the frame. There is actually about 1/2 inch left before making contact. My son and I both sitting on the back of the frame and bouncing up and down still isn't enough weight to compress it all the way down. The springs are pretty stiff. Thanks for the caution.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Put the shackles back the way they were designed to work and take a leaf or two out of the spring pack to soften the ride.

 

[piefoot]

We got the frame all painted with the Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It dries to a flat black color and provides a nice smooth even and paintable finish, just like the label says. Getting ready now to apply a second coat then it will have a day or two to dry. We'll be using Rustoleum Hammered Grey as the top coat.

 

[piefoot]

We had a productive weekend. Here's the front of the trailer with the new wheel jack bolted on. We also replaced the towing safety chains. This shot shows the Hammered Grey finish as well.

And in the photo below, the entire trailer frame in Hammered Grey. In spending all my free time working on the trailer project, I see I have neglected the weeds. Guess I had better do some cleaning up in the yard as well. But first, I'll get caught up on posting my project here.

While the paint has been drying, we measured and constructed our bunks. I ordered the nylon rollers online and the product description clarified that they come in several colors. They said the colors might vary. When I placed the order I explained I understood they would randomly select the color, but asked if they could at least send both rollers in the same color. When the order arrived, the rollers were both red as shown in the picture posted earlier and below. So, we decided to keep the color scheme going with a red carpet to cover the bunks.

Note the white PVC pipe in the picture above. Over time, we usually need to replace the trailer light wiring every couple of years. I decided to use some PVC pipe left-overs to make a protective conduit to house the wires. This is the test fit. As shown, the PVC is inserted quite a ways into the back of the trailer tongue. The wires run through the tongue and into the PVC pipe. Back at the intersection, the wires are then split left and right where they will pass through the frame wall protected by rubber grommets. In the end, the wires will be exposed up front from the tongue to the plug in the rear of the towing vehicle and about three inches in the back where they pass through the rubber grommet to connect to the lights.

And finally, in the picture below, the PVC is painted black, is glued together, and is bolted to the frame in four places. One location where the pipe is bolted to the frame is where it passes under the cross-member (photo above). The bolt hole drilled into the pipe serves as a drain as this is the lowest point in the PVC set up. I can grab the intersection shown in this photo and give it a shake, moving the entire trailer but not causing any damage to the wiring itself. I think this will be great in protecting the wires from debris, road hazards, and bored puppies in the garage looking for something to chew on.

You might also notice in the background in the photo above, the new wheels I picked up for the trailer. The wheels still in use are white and badly rusted. The new wheels will help clean up the appearance a bit. Next on the "to do" list are to get the wheels off and take a look at the hubs and bearings. I've always kept up on the bearings so I am not expecting any problems.

 

[gatorglenn]

As good if not better then new. Great job!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[piefoot]

Thanks gatorglenn. So the fun continues. Spent the better part of Mother's Day on the hubs. As the first picture shows, they were dirty and rusted. We knocked out the studs and did some sanding and steel wool to get them cleaned up then applied a couple coats of the Rust Reformer.

In the next picture (below) you can see the finished hub with the Rust Reformer paint, new studs, and I even added a set of Bearing Buddies after inspecting and repacking the bearings. You might also notice that the hubs are not identical. Somewhere before I took ownership, a previous owner replaced one of the hubs.

You might have even noticed the red paint over-spray on the plastic containers supporting the trailer frame in the pictures above. We had the fenders resting on the crates as we painted them. Here's a shot of the bright red fenders which was also our attempt to stay with the grey and red color scheme sitting above the tires mounted on the new steel wheels. We have the boat back on the trailer as well. It won't be long now until we are back out on the lake fishing.

Moving back up front, We bolted on a spare tire carrier. I've been wanting to do this for a long time as I often forget to throw the spare into the back of the SUV or pickup when we head to the water.

And last but not least, we added a new feature. The picture below shows the small side bunks we bought and bolted onto the frame. I wanted these to make it a little easier to line the boat up with the frame in the wind. We scrapped the black carpeted bunks that came with the set and made ours using the remaining red carpet.

That wraps up our trailer upgrade. Now to get it out fishing again. In the meantime, my brother wants me to rewire his trailer lights with the same PVC set up used here. My daughter joined me on the lake this morning bass fishing. The boat floated off the trailer much sooner than I was used to. The rear tires were barely in the water on the boat launch when my daughter gave me the "all clear" sign. In my final picture, we are holding a few of our bass from this outing. Rusty the Brittany is responsible to guard our fish so they don't escape. A responsibility he takes seriously! I'm very happy with the refurbished trailer. This winter the trailer was our winter project. Next year, it will be the boat. Until then, we will be fishing!

 

[LDUBS]

Nice looking rig -- your efforts really made a difference.

Many many years ago I did some work up in Millville. Closest I've been to your neck of the woods. Nice country as I recall. That was back in the 70's.

 

[piefoot]

My wife's sister and family lived in the Millville area for many years, just down the road from Merle Haggard's old place.

Thanks for the kind words LDUBS.

 

[finstr]

Very nice! I like the pvc pipe to protect the wires. The red and silver look is good too.
I can't even imagine borrowing someone's boat and abandoning it on a road for some thief to take home. LUDACRIS

 

[gnappi]

Great job it looks excellent and some creative ideas used!

My trailer is also too high for my boat. I see you put your bunks lying flat on the cross pieces. Great Idea. You must have lost a few inches by losing the bunk mounting hardware with the 2x4's lying flat. I would lose about 3 1/2" doing this.

A question? How did you attach them to the frame? Did you countersink the holes in the wood and bolt them from the top, or lag bolt them from the bottom, or just use galvanized carriage bolts with the low rounded head from the top and carpet over the heads?

Also moving the axle to the top of the springs I figure to get me another 1" lower. My wheels are 5.70-8 (18") 5 lug so I can't go lower than that without changing the wheels and tires too and then I'd only only lose 1.5" for the cost and effort.

 

[piefoot]

Very nice! I like the pvc pipe to protect the wires. The red and silver look is good too.
I can't even imagine borrowing someone's boat and abandoning it on a road for some thief to take home. LUDACRIS

Oh, he was certain the boat would be fine because he left a note taped to the boat explaining he had some trouble and asking that no one steals or vandalizes the boat since it wasn't his. I couldn't believe it either but I learned a lesson.

 

[piefoot]

Great job it looks excellent and some creative ideas used!

My trailer is also too high for my boat. I see you put your bunks lying flat on the cross pieces. Great Idea. You must have lost a few inches by losing the bunk mounting hardware with the 2x4's lying flat. I would lose about 3 1/2" doing this.

A question? How did you attach them to the frame? Did you countersink the holes in the wood and bolt them from the top, or lag bolt them from the bottom, or just use galvanized carriage bolts with the low rounded head from the top and carpet over the heads?

Also moving the axle to the top of the springs I figure to get me another 1" lower. My wheels are 5.70-8 (18") 5 lug so I can't go lower than that without changing the wheels and tires too and then I'd only only lose 1.5" for the cost and effort.

I counter sank carriage bolts into the 2X4s and carpeted over them. I had to use about four washers between the bunk and frame so the keel didn't make contact with the trailer frame, but it lowered it which was important to me. As I said somewhere in the post, I barely get my rear tires in the water when the boat floats off the trailer. I lost about 3 to 4 inches not using the bunk brackets. Good luck.

 

[gnappi]

When going to pick up the decking to replace my bunk wood with, I had a EUREKA moment. It may be hard to picture but...

The bunk mounts are like an "H" bracket with the top part of the "H" rotated 90 degrees for the 2x4 to drop into and get secured with a bolt.

What I decided to do is hammer the top parts that hold the 2x4's flat with the frame, mark the holes remove the bunk mounts and set the 1x6 board on top of them and use the existing holes in the bunk bracket to screw 1" SS wood screws into the plastic plank. No drilling required. I'll take a pic if it works out in reality as good as it does in my head

 

[gnappi]

Finito!

It was a beotsch getting the old bunks off but it worked out pretty good! With the new tires and lowered bunks I lost six inches in height. I may not have to move the axle to the top of the springs after all.





And here's a pic of the removable instrument panel I made. It has a stick on thermometer, compass, hour meter, volt meter, two USB ports, a master power switch and I'm waiting for a stick on clock

 

[piefoot]

You got a lot of drop without doing the axle over springs conversion. Looks like a winner. I also really like the instrument panel. I made the trailer my winter project this last winter and plan to make the boat my winter project next year. Getting a lot of great ideas from this site. I'm picturing an instrument panel now as well.

 

[gnappi]

I did the boat and trailer simultaneously, I shouldn't have

I decided to fabricate the whole thing because I couldn't find a decent project box, so I made the panel out of 9"x14" .062" aluminum. I went to a local aluminum supplier / fabricator and gave him my drawing and it cost me $22 bucks to cut and bend. I made the sides and back from two cutting boards at Wal Mart for ~$7.50 each. Altogether it was definitely worthy of a winter project

If you're interested, PM me if you want the drawing of the aluminum front, top and bottom.