Replacing this transom impossible?

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Dec 29, 2016
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So this is a 2001 Lowe roughneck. The transom is still in good shape (checked the wood through the motor mount holes) but I am thinking a few years down the road it will need replaced. I have done a transom on my other boat before and while it wasn't easy, it was doable.

This boat is mostly welded with some rivets but as I look at how I would replace the transom it seems impossible!? I know there has to be SOME way to get it out but it looks like it would require me cutting either the corner braces or knee braces as well as ALL the welds that hold the rear boxes and flooring?
That just seems like way too much and it makes me nervous to cut corner or knee brace.

Can I just put a steel bar across the outside to act as reinforcement instead? Or would seacast be a better option?


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why do you want to replace it ?

when people weld things together, they expect that project to last forever.
unfortunately, they don't.
in your case, it will take some speciality tools to do the job.
like: hand-held pneumatic metal hacksaw, angle grinder with cut-off wheels,
pneumatic die grinder, chisels, hammers and the skill/knowledge on how to do it
without causing so much damage it must go to the shop to finish the project.
and - all those braces and corner caps that you cut loose or remove
must go back as they were originally.

it can be VERY overwhelming and frustrating if you do not have the basic metal working skills and tools
to tackle a complex job such as yours...... it can also be very time consuming and labor intensive.
personally, I would take it to a metal fab shop for an estimate then make your decisions from there.
I wouldn't replace it. I would re enforce it.

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X2 on the shop....I did one, not nearly as sealed up as yours, and it was a mess. I finished the job but if I had to do it again going to the shop would be worth the frustration. Maybe I'm just lazy :shock:
Not impossible, time consuming yes. I have the exact same hull but mine has an aluminum transom thank goodness. For that one you would want to pull all through bolts, pop the corner caps, cut the transom cap off. Insert 2 eye bolts in the transom wood, pull transom wood out with a cherry picker, replace. Install new broke transom cap welded on, weld on corner caps. 10 - 12 hour job, roughly a 600$ transom job.
I have a 2001 Lowe jet tunnel as well and mine looks just like yours condition wise. I would just make sure any bolt/screw holes going into the transom are sealed up well and you shouldn't have any water or rot issues to worry about. Does you boat stay in the water all season? Mine does, so my biggest worry is the rain somehow getting into the transom through an existing hole that isn't sealed properly. I have a Mercury 60/45 jet mounted on mine and it doesn't look like it needs any reinforcing so I think you should be fine.
Im with most of these guys, I wouldn't worry about replacing it unless you see cracks at the welds in the corners, rotting wood in the transom, or extreme play on the transom with the motor installed.

These welded hulls are beefy and normally have some pretty thick aluminum transoms. If you really are worried, get some outboard motor mounting plates like these to re-inforce the mounting bolts and motor.

Stop overthinking it, an '01 boat isn't that old unless abused. I have had aluminum 80's boats and pulled out good wood at the transom.
You may end up selling the boat before it ever even needs a transom!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the replies.

I don't think it needs to be replaced but I am just thinking down the road. It seems like most wood transoms rot eventually. I plan on keeping the boat for a long time and want to make sure it is solid.

I used an awl to check the wood through all of the bolt holes and it seems in good shape. Can't tell if it is solid wood or just frozen HAHA it's been cold in northern Wisconsin.

I just bought the boat and previous owner said it was always stored in doors so hopefully that is true.

If anything, I will look into metal support bar to run across the transom just in case; can't hurt, right?
If you do add a piece of metal for additional support use aluminum.
I have replaced my transom due to tearing. Will post pics when I don't have to wade through two feet of snow but suffice to say it was a giant pain in the ***..... I am not talking the wood but the whole transom.
Not sure why you want to replace it. It looks okay to me but if it is flexing and you are concerned with that, I would get a piece of 1/4" AL plate and epoxy it to the inside and then re-bolt the motor through it. Use G-flex epoxy to attach the plate. If the wood is sealed up from the elements then it should not rot unless water is getting in through the bolt holes for the motor. That is usually the problem on fiberglass transoms, the bolt holes or other holes people drill into the transom allow water in and the wood then dry rots. Any time you drill holes into a transom take extra care to seal up the holes, silicone is useless. Use a good boat sealer like 4200 use lots of it and then wipe off the excess.
I did one on an old glass bass boat.

by time I did all the work-which was 2 months, every day after work 6 days a week and then all day on Monday, with normal interruptions (lunch, dinner, tea, fetch parts, etc), it cost me $770, IIRC. I kept the boat a while and then decided that it was really too big for what I needed it for; so I sold it for $1000. All I could get out of it.

It's not worth putting much into an inexpensive hull unless you're married to it somehow. If it's questionable, and the funds are available, unload it while it's not rotted and pick up another one if possible. When I say inexpensive hull, I mean mass-produced. They build them as cheaply and quickly as possible and in doing this, when it comes time to do this kind of job, it's questionable whether or not it's worth it. Other hulls just have a big metal cap across the top and you just remove that cap, pull the wood out, and replace with new. Those are easy-but they're also regarded as "better" hulls. "Better" being a ~subjective term. Some hate them others don't.
I like older stuff as it seems to be less shoddily built and that goes for boats, trucks, motorcycles, plus it is easier and cheaper to fix.

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