How are your rivets failing? Are they breaking, pulling through, or just not sealing? Are you using pop rivets or the blind variety? I just finished a modest rivet replaement project in my aluminum motor canoe. I did bed them in 3M 5200 (standard, not quick setting). I made sure to clean and roughen the aluminum on both sides of the rivet, and in the hole (as much as possibly without enlarging). I used pop rivets as short and as large diameter as possible, setting with a 17" (Harbor Freight) rivet puller to provide as much force as possible. I coated both sides of the hole and the rivet itself with 5200 before setting (clean-up is a PITA, but the main object is sealing). I noticed that the 5200 tends to flow into the tiniest crevice, including the "pin hole" in the rivet center, so I topped off with an additional drop once or twice. My canoe has a through-hull-bottom rivet where the rear bulkhead face bends 90-degrees from vertical to horizontal (forming a "foot"). This area is stressed by motor torque transmitted from the transom, with the result that after removing the leaking rivet, the "foot" was sprung away from the hull bottom by 1/16" or so. I didn't trust the rivet and puller to bring that flush, so I used an SS screw, nut and fender washers to make a temporary "clamp". I prepped the foot and the hull, then used West system aluminum repair kit epoxy to coat the adjoining surfaces. After passivating the SS fasteners with citric acid (my plan B was to leave the SS fasteners in place for the repair) and coating with molten paraffin (for release) I tightened the screw and allowed the epoxy to set for 48 hours. I was worried about removing this, but after sanding down the "excess" expoxy, other than the fender washer requiring a very light tap with a screwdriver and hammer, it came part very cleanly. I then finished sanding down the epoxy and cleaned up the rivet hole (again) then proceeded to set the rivet in 5200. It was a lot of work, but it turned out very nicely. I do want to emphasize a couple of points if you decide to use SS fasteners permanently, especially below the waterline. There is a small, but real galvanic potential between SS and Al, with SS being the more noble of the two metals (exact potential depends on the specific SS and Al alloys). If the boat will be in water, especially salt water for extended periods of time, I you should consider trying to passivate the SS by soaking in a mild acid (I used citric acid as recommended on more than one metalworking site) shortly before fastening. I dissolved my citric acid in boiling water for the soak. In theory, at least, this process will produce a thin inactive coating on the SS fastener that will be trapped between the SS and the Al so that galvanic action will be minimized. This might be overkill, but I put so much work into the refastening work on my canoe that I thought it was a worthwhile precaution.