Rivet Size

[MOE]

I have some rivets that need to be replaced and I have no idea on what size to get. I have a 1436 made out of very thin aluminum.

What length rivets do I need?

I whatched a video and they made it look really easy to drill out the old rivets. I assume I need to do this in order to find out what diameter rivets I need or is there a standard size? How do I know what size drill bit to use if I don't know what size rivets I'm drilling out? I think I read something on here about going up one size in diameter because its hard to perfectly drill out the center and you wind up with oval holes if you use the same size. Any truth to that?

I have a riveter that can do up to 3/16 rivets. Will that work?

Thanks

 

[fool4fish1226]

3/16th is a very common size rivet and used on most boats - however if the hole has been enlarged
you may have to go bigger - as far as length goes it really depends on how much metal the rivet has to go through and hold properly - length will vary

good luck - post some pics we will be able to help a little more.

 

[JMichael]

With the variables involved, it would be best to drill out one of the old rivets so you can be sure of the diameter and length that you will need.

 

[MOE]

Ok hopefully I will be able to go out to the camp this weekend and make at least one fishing trip before I start drilling a bunch of holes. Been off the water for 6 months and now that I've finally fixed the trailer I hate to not at least use it once lol. Was hoping to be able to buy everything I need and replace them as I drill them out but I guess there no way to be sure what to buy.

The video I watched showed them drilling from the outside (the dome side of the rivet). Seems to me like that would make it hard to hold center. Is that really the best way or should I drill from the inside on the flat side of the rivet? And I ssume I should start with a small drill bit and move up in sizes until the rivet falls out???

 

[JMichael]

Run down to Harbor Freight or whatever store you have locally and invest $5 in an automatic center punch. It makes life so much easier when it comes to marking center so the drill bit doesn't drift.

https://www.parts-express.com/automatic-center-punch--360-652?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

I always use a drill bit that is slightly larger than the shank of the rivet. That way when the drill bit gets through the head of the rivet and hits the narrower shank, the rivet head starts spinning with the drill bit. Then the shank will fall out some times or you can use a small punch to tap it out of the hole.

 

[MOE]

Great tip thanks!

 

[MOE]

Ok guys, I drilled out a couple rivets. One of them not so perfect so I decided to go ahead and go up to 1/4" on that one. So my plan is to order some 3/16" and 1/4" rivets. The thickness is pretty close to 1/8" (0.125).

The only 1/4" they have here https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html have a steel mandrel. Is that going to be ok? I figure the steel mandrel would make it stronger, but would rust out over time.

They have aluminum mandrels in the 3/16" dia. Or should I go with the steel mandrels for both sizes?

And as mentioned above, my thickness is about 0.125 (best I can tell) should I get the .020-.125 or .126-.250 grip range? The smallest grip range in the 1/4" is .126-.250

 

[JMichael]

I'd find a different supply source that had all aluminum rivets.

 

[jigngrub]

The steel mandrel rivets will be fine and are the strongest blind rivet.

The boys in this video are using steel mandrel aluminum rivets:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related

I have used steel mandrel aluminum closed end blind rivets in my boat without problem, but if you're afraid of rust you can squirt a little 3M 5200 marine sealant into the mandrel hole to waterproof it.

Since you're going to use 1/4" diameter rivets you'll need to buy a heavy duty rivet setter for them, you can get one cheap at HF:
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-17-1-2-half-inch-hand-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html

Instead of trying to drill your old rivets completely out just drill or carefully grind the head off and then use the center punch to drive the rivet out the other side, this makes for a nice round hole at OEM size.

I like to dip the ends of my rivets in 5200 or a 2 part marine epoxy before installing and setting them, like they did in the video I posted.

I also buy all of my rivets online from JayCees, they have great service and fast shipping. The $15 S&H is a little high but if you'll stock up on different sizes and diameters it'll offset the shipping and an aluminum boat owner can never have too many rivets.

 

[MOE]

Thnaks for the replies. I have looked and can't find 1/4" rivets with aluminum mandrels. I returned the rivet tool I had and got the one from harbor freight you mention. I was planning on using 5200 with them so I will just put a little on the outside to keep them from rusting. I am going to try to go back with 3/16" on as many as I can and will probably order all aluminum in that size.

Any advice on gap range? I am right on the border between two lengths. I assume either would work but would the longer of the two be better/worse?

 

[jigngrub]

If your rivets are exposed on the inside of the boat (no deck to hide them) I'd go with the shorter for a shorter profile. Also if you try to use too long of a rivet (grip range) it'll cause the mandrel to break off above the head of the rivet leaving a sharp nub to be filed or ground off.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Use the shorter rivet. When I made the new floor for my StarCraft Falcon I used 3/16" rivet 5/8" long to go through 1/2" plywood and 1/8" aluminum stock. The 5/8" rivet was plenty long enough to go through the material and tighten up.