Sea Nypmh 17' Deep V.

[LonLB]

One of the issues I've had is finding a rivet that I thought would look OK on the outside of the boat.
Something that looked factory, but easy to install-IE. "pop rivets"
I found shave-able rivets online. Stinks I was going to have to pay 30-40 bucks for some rivets, then I remembered buying some of these (before I knew what they were for) from the local RV salvage/surplus. I think I have about 4 bucks into these.

Anyhow, this is what they look like. I'm OK with this.

 

[LonLB]

More on the rivets since someone asked.
This is how the Mandrel breaks off. I guess with a special tool you can break them off flush.



I used a pair of horse grooming pliers or whatever they are to cut the mandrel flush.



Then you just grind/sand them down flush, and smooth.

 

[Flatliner]

This might wet yer whistle a bit. I did practically the same project as a tiller walleye boat to guide with and with a 25 merc L/S she'd do 24mph with me alone in boat 2-12Volt marine batteries up front and a 12V anchor winch w/ 32lb. chain anchor and 24volt T/Motor up front. Best fishing boat I've ever had.Your gonna love it. High sided as she is it has more sail area to get pushed around but,in cold weather you'll be glad. It's deep enough that you've got leeway when deciding on seat height. You'll find it to be a very dry hull design.Running hard in pounding waves you'll be laughing at the spray cast aside.I used it for eveything from Lake Michigan Salmon to Illinois river walleyes And you've got it going with that trailer also A perfect fit for that boat. Good Luck and keep posting. I can't wait to see more.

 

[lowblazah]

More on the rivets since someone asked.

Where do you get these type of rivets...I can see where these would be handy.

 

[LonLB]

More on the rivets since someone asked.

Where do you get these type of rivets...I can see where these would be handy.

The rivet suppliers will sell them. They are called Shaveable rivets. Anyone who carries them will know what you are talking about.

The easiest source around me is probably Fastenal.


I've thought about checking to see if the RV place I bought mine at still has them, but I really don't think they do. I just bought some regular long grip rivets there and didn't see any more shaveable rivets.

 

[LonLB]

This might wet yer whistle a bit. I did practically the same project as a tiller walleye boat to guide with and with a 25 merc L/S she'd do 24mph with me alone in boat 2-12Volt marine batteries up front and a 12V anchor winch w/ 32lb. chain anchor and 24volt T/Motor up front. Best fishing boat I've ever had.Your gonna love it. High sided as she is it has more sail area to get pushed around but,in cold weather you'll be glad. It's deep enough that you've got leeway when deciding on seat height. You'll find it to be a very dry hull design.Running hard in pounding waves you'll be laughing at the spray cast aside.I used it for eveything from Lake Michigan Salmon to Illinois river walleyes And you've got it going with that trailer also A perfect fit for that boat. Good Luck and keep posting. I can't wait to see more.

THANKS! Now that is some good info to hear.

If it does turn out to be that nice I won't have any reason to upgrade to a bigger boat once I'm done with school. Instead I'll just add a Talon, and a couple 898 Humminbirds, and maybe even a Hydrowave. =P~


The sail area was one of the reasons I got rid of the trolling motor I had and got the Motorguide. It's on 67lb thrust, from 54lb thrust, but it's 24v too. And I've always heard that the M/G motors seem a bit more "thrusty" than M/K motors.
Also, part of the reason for using the pop up cleats is for using drift socks.

BTW Have you used drift socks? Where is the best place to fasten them to the boat?

 

[Zubes]

When using drift socks for drifting, you are best off attaching one to the bow, and one to the transom. That way it keeps the boat from spinning back and forth and will allow for a nice steady sideways drift.

 

[LonLB]

When using drift socks for drifting, you are best off attaching one to the bow, and one to the transom. That way it keeps the boat from spinning back and forth and will allow for a nice steady sideways drift.

If you only had one where would the be the best place to attach it?

What size do you think I would need?



I've never used them, but would like to eventually fish bigger water than I currently do, and am going to be using some things that actually require a drift.
In the past I would just head on into the wind for the most control, using a big trolling motor, and Have even used a kicker to nose into the wind.

I do want to do some slip float drifting for Walleye, and dragging tubes and grubs for Smallmouth.

 

[NextTopBassFisherman]

When using drift socks for drifting, you are best off attaching one to the bow, and one to the transom. That way it keeps the boat from spinning back and forth and will allow for a nice steady sideways drift.

If you only had one where would the be the best place to attach it?

What size do you think I would need?



I've never used them, but would like to eventually fish bigger water than I currently do, and am going to be using some things that actually require a drift.
In the past I would just head on into the wind for the most control, using a big trolling motor, and Have even used a kicker to nose into the wind.

I do want to do some slip float drifting for Walleye, and dragging tubes and grubs for Smallmouth.

Any more progress?

 

[LonLB]

Yep, got the rear tiller console, and front deck permanently mounted, working on more framing for MORE front deck-got that in, got the livewell in completely and permanently, got a livewell pump working, made the front bow board that is going to have switch panel, trolling motor plug, and depthfinder on it cleaned up the interior gunnel in the spots I've been putting off, used those nice shaveable rivets to fill rail holes in the gunnell,
Bought some piano hinges, and wiring, working on the rod box...........


I'll post some pictures next week. As soon as it warms back to the 40 degree range I'm going to glue down the casting deck padding and carpet.


This week the goal is to get the rod box DONE, the bow panel in, and done, the casting deck padding down, start on the storage box down the port side, and at least run the trolling motor wiring front and back.

Oh ya, and in case anyone is still reading, I'm going to rip out plaster walls in the dining room, and upstairs bathroom, tear up some hazardous asbestos tile, strip some lead paint, HANG drywall in the two rooms mentioned-including tearing out a closet and framing a new wall to expand the upstairs bathroom, and putting down new subflooring in the dining room/kitchen, and bathroom.
All by this time next week.


And full time school-BUT my wife is doing the unthinkable and supporting us with her paycheck alone.

 

[BillG]

I'm still reading. You are one busy man. I get home from work, sit in the chair with the laptop and read and post about boats. I can't wait for warmer weather and more daylight so I can get back to mine.

I like what you're doing with your set up. The wife said I had to keep the original design. I really wanted a bass boat.

 

[NextTopBassFisherman]

Yep, got the rear tiller console, and front deck permanently mounted, working on more framing for MORE front deck-got that in, got the livewell in completely and permanently, got a livewell pump working, made the front bow board that is going to have switch panel, trolling motor plug, and depthfinder on it cleaned up the interior gunnel in the spots I've been putting off, used those nice shaveable rivets to fill rail holes in the gunnell,
Bought some piano hinges, and wiring, working on the rod box...........


I'll post some pictures next week. As soon as it warms back to the 40 degree range I'm going to glue down the casting deck padding and carpet.


This week the goal is to get the rod box DONE, the bow panel in, and done, the casting deck padding down, start on the storage box down the port side, and at least run the trolling motor wiring front and back.

Oh ya, and in case anyone is still reading, I'm going to rip out plaster walls in the dining room, and upstairs bathroom, tear up some hazardous asbestos tile, strip some lead paint, HANG drywall in the two rooms mentioned-including tearing out a closet and framing a new wall to expand the upstairs bathroom, and putting down new subflooring in the dining room/kitchen, and bathroom.
All by this time next week.


And full time school-BUT my wife is doing the unthinkable and supporting us with her paycheck alone.

Awesome! Do you have any more pics?
EDIT Saw what you said about pictures in other an other post..... Whoops.........

 

[Johny25]

Great project and nice job so far. Looking forward to seeing this when done because it is very similar to what I want to get as my next project boat.

 

[fishingmich]

Lon, when you get that thing done, lets do some walleye fishing on the St. Joe! Once I get mine done, I'd be more than happy to take you out on the Maumee in March or April for the monster walleye run. It's awesome! I'll probably have mine done the end of March, maybe the end of April, definitely by July, maybe not, who knows! :mrgreen: JK!

 

[never-dull]

I'm new to this site and just purchased a 1973 12' Sears shallow V that I'm in the process of polishing to a mirrow finish like my 1965 Airstream travel trailer. Not sure if anyone has talked to you about using "Olympic" shavaeble rivets on tin-boats. They're used on fabrication and repair work on Airstream travel trailers. They're available at Vintage Trailer Supply, 800-644-4620. They also carry buck rivets and rivet tools. Hope this was helpful and not old info those interested.

 

[NextTopBassFisherman]

Do you have any more pictures!?