Sears 14ft conversion

[Timhof13]

I am going to be doing some conversions/modifications to a 14ft Sears aluminum that I picked up last summer. It's in pretty decent shape and is mostly for my 5 year old and I to putz up and down a no wake river to fish. I will be doing some platforms and storage compartments on the boat.

First things first
a. What year is this beast
b. has a few tiny leaks, what's the easiest repair method.
c. What is the prefered type of plywood? I will be using the existing benches and building the rest out of cedar 2x2. I will be using foam on the bottom underneath all panels.
d. Will removing the center seat effect the boat. I will be tying everything together so I assume no.

 

[ericman]

I've had 3 Sears boats come through my place over the years. All looked like mint condition, no scrapes, no dents, no corrosion. . . and they all leaked. It looked like the rivets were sweating when on the water. Be on the water for 3 hours and you'd get maybe a pint of water in the boat. You could buck the rivets just a bit more but a thorough priming and painting of the bottom with a high gloss enamel will more than likely take care of the problem. At least it did on the 3 that I dealt.

 

[Timhof13]

I was hoping to not use any paint on the boat. Don't want to worry about scratching it all up, I was thinking about some of the marine jb weld. I also know a guy that can weld aluminum if that's the answer. Other than the few little spots I saw no leaking at all. The underside of the boat has gluvit on it.

 

[Timhof13]

Hoping someone can suggest some sealer or paint that I should use prior to carpeting. I really don't want to mix the old timers formula. Seems pricy to do all that mixing and possibly wasting if you don't use it all.

 

[Timhof13]

Any help on sealer, thinking of deck sealer( multiple coats)

 

[Johnny]

Tim, there are several good threads on selecting, sealing and waterproofing plywood here.
any good EXTERIOR grade A/B or B/C plywood will work for you when properly sealed.
as well as good information on finding and fixing leaks in an aluminum hull.
use the search feature for assistance.

to seal the plywood;
basically, it is one part varnish, one part boiled linseed oil and two parts mineral spirits.
apply two good wet saturating coats 48 hours apart.
then, a couple of coats of straight varnish diluted maybe 5-10%, 24 hours apart.
let that sit and dry/cure according to your ambient weather.
then you can apply your top coat of paint or glue for carpet with no worries.




and for the leak at the bottom of the transom, clean it out the best you can
with picks, wire brush, what ever it takes to get a good look at exactly what
is going on........ there is no sense in putting a bandaid on top of another bandaid.
maybe once you get it all cleaned out, you can make the determination of how to address the issue.
basically, it is to clean the wound before putting on the bandage.





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[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Hoping someone can suggest some sealer or paint that I should use prior to carpeting. I really don't want to mix the old timers formula. Seems pricy to do all that mixing and possibly wasting if you don't use it all.

You just mix up as much as you need. The measurement of one part could be one ounce or one gallon.

 

[Timhof13]

I've got most of the boat built, I'm gonna be sealing soon. I'm gonna use the old timers formula, then seal with oil based exterior paint.

How long do I wait for the old timers to dry?

How many coats of paint to use?

What type of glue to use after painting for the carpet?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

The old timer needs at least 72 hours to dry, 2 coats of paint should be good.

 

[Timhof13]

I've got the interior panels sealed with the old times formula and painted with oil based paint. What type of carpet glue should I use? How warm does it need to be? Thinking about using contact cement?

 

[Johnny]

Tim - contact cement is not recommended if you have never used it before
on large projects...... very aggressive adhesion - one chance to get it right.
as for the latex based adhesives - it depends on your carpet.
some adhesives say right on the label - "not for vinyl backed carpet or vinyl flooring".
figure up how many square feet of surface you will carpet then take that information
to the store to compare coverage of the product. I have found that the one gallon tub will do a 16' boat
that has a lot of carpet. (buy two tubs - you can always return the unused tub back for a refund).
check your Big Box Stores for exterior carpet adhesive that will be exposed to the elements.
the adhesive should be applied with a notched trowel. (the notch size is on the label of the adhesive).
The latex based adhesives are very user friendly, if applied in accordance the with manufacturers directions.

Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on the label of all products you use.
Pay particular attention to the safety notes and heed the warnings accordingly.
any rags used in the prepping/painting process that have solvents, oils or paint on them,
should be layed out in the open to completely air dry prior to discarding them

some helpful YouTube videos: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+install+carpet+on+a+boat

this is three of the adhesives that are suggested for exterior carpet. (there are many more).
again - ensure it is compatible with the carpet you purchase.








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[Timhof13]

The carpet is from menards it is non-backed carpet. Your basic outdoor carpet without a loop to it.

Here is a link
https://www.menards.com/main/flooring-rugs/carpet-carpet-tiles/indoor-outdoor-carpet/foss-ecofi-status-indoor-outdoor-carpet-12ft-wide/p-1444430624211.htm

Most of the adhesives state that the don't work on painted surfaces, should I scuff them?

 

[Johnny]

I don't know what product you are referring to that doesn't adhere to paint.
I would like to know which products you are referring to that you read that information.
Henry - 663: "Substrates which have been painted, stained, or otherwise coated
must be tested to ensure compatibility with the adhesive".
Warnings:
Carefully read, understand and follow all cautions and warnings on the product label.
Refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet for additional product information.

the latex based carpet adhesives that I have read about or have used personally works on just about all surfaces.
On my last project, I used 1/2" BDX plywood preserved with the varnish sealer. Let it sit for 3 days.
I used Henry 663 adhesive and have not noticed anything wrong in the past year or so.
HENRY 663 Outdoor Carpet Adhesive bonds carpet (rubber-, polypropylene-, and non-backed),
artificial turf, indoor/outdoor carpet (for outdoor use only) to concrete, asphalt paving and other clean,
sound paving surfaces (not asphalt roofing), exterior or marine grade plywood decking which is sound
and not subject to deterioration (not plank decking or treated wood), aluminum boat decks
(cleaned and roughened), and roughened fiberglass.

I used TEC® Skill Set™ Outdoor Carpet Adhesive (from Lowe's) several years ago.
it is specially formulated for the installation of most outdoor carpets and synthetic grass
with backings such as marine grade, ACTIONBAC®, rubber-backed, and non-backed.
It is water resistant when cured and is for use indoor and outdoor.

NOTE: after the carpet is glued down, it is very important to keep it dry
for the first 5-7 days to ensure proper adhesive curing.






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[Timhof13]

Not exactly sure of the specific ones, but the only outdoors products at my local Home Depot and Menards all stated something about not for painted surfaces. I will try one of the ones you suggested. I need the temps to get back in the 60's

 

[DDudley]

I am currently working on the same boat.

I WILL BE using the suggested formula for waterproofing/sealing the plywood. A bit of a PITA, but I'm not willing to take any chances.

Luck was on my side (for a change) en I bought my boat. It had no leaks that I'm aware of. Still, cleaning the wound before dressing it is always good advice.