Stand up stick steer??

[Packwillatack]

Just as the subject says. What is every ones opinion on a stick steer set up located on a center console? I am building a new river jet 1760 weldbilt with polyurea sprayed on the hill with wetlander topcoat. Pretty open layout as seen in the pic. I have owned a forward cc obj and a forward stick steer obj. I am probably one of the few that can say I was actually ejected from my stick steer before, was my fault as I was the operator but one of the passengers was screaming like a little b**** and didn't understand go fast on plane or sit down and hit. Well I backed out, the rear end caught a rock and unlike any other time I've hit instead of bouncing off or up some the rear end grabbed and stopped and well I kept on going. Anyway that's another story. I really like how responsive stick steering is/was. Am I just being stupid to even think of adding a stick steer to center console instead of steering wheel?

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

That is a very cool boat! What engine do you have?

The increased visibility from standing has value IMO.

What is the reason you want stick steer? I know the jet friendly helms are pricey, but with a wheel, at least if you hit something you are holding onto something semi-solid.

The throttle needs to be 100% spring return so that hand isn't going to help you in an impact. I suppose a foot throttle would be safer but would be hard to do standing.

Maybe pad the console so you don't get cut up from the sheet metal edges if you hit another rock.

 

[Packwillatack]

I just really liked the maneuverability of my stick steer. it seemed like you had to move that stick a whole lot less than when I had a steering wheel style jet boat to get the boat to do what I wanted it to. I'll probably go back with a steering wheel on this boat I was just curious if anybody that ever done it or tried it or thoughts about stand up stick steer. The boat itself is a 2020 model weldbilt 1760 tunnel. I will be putting a 1998 Merc 60-45 2 stroke jet on it that I just got done rebuilding. I hope I'm not going to be underpowered I think I will be borderline the boat itself is very light even with the poly on it at 600# and I'm doing everything I can to keep the rest of my weight down. I will be putting Hydro-Turf on the floor and the deck. My two trolling batteries will be under the front console. Starting and 12gal fuel tank in rear but the way I have everything figured with me driving the boat I will have approximately a 50/50 weight distribution from front to back. I'm also making up a removable livewell that will go with towards the rear and slip into the bases that are mounted in floor as we don't use a live well a whole lot as we're primarily catch and release.

 

[Scott F]

I think the 60/45 will not have quite enough power. That’s a pretty good sized boat you’ve got there. I’m using a 50/35 on my 16x48 and wish I had your motor. Adding the live well filled with water will not help either. I’m only using a 6 gallon gas tank, no live well, and I have no additional storage all to keep down the weight.

 

[Packwillatack]

Thank you for your input but honestly that wasn't my question. I have slight concerns over my motor hp as well however there are many and I mean many 1648/1660 that have 60/40 on them that run great and weigh way more than this boat does and will when done. Take for instance a lowe roughneck 1660 with a dry weight of 850ish pounds. Before batteries, motor, fuel etc. This boat is nearly 300lbs lighter than that boat with the Polly bottom on it... Hell my boat and motor weigh less than a 1660 roughneck with no motor. So can one give me an idea of how my motor isn't big enough? Not to mention there are alot of 1860s with 60/40 on then on hp restricted waterways that run good. I had a 55 powerhead (38-39 jet?) on a 1648 myself, it ran great until I wrecked it I tweaked my setup and it could run 28 with 2 people, batteries, 14gal fuel, livewell gear. That boat weighed the same as what this one will when done.. If I can obtain 24-27 and a quick plane shallow ride that's all I want and need in my mine field of rivers that I run. What I'm getting at is it's not always the motor it's the whole setup and package that makes or breaks most jet boats. What I want and what I need are a light weight package with shallow draft and since a 1760 will draft shallower than a1648 and in my case will weigh basically the same when done..

 

[nccatfisher]

To answer your question, go for it. If you have already been ejected then there will be no cherry gotten, just make sure your kill system is intact and working and use it, you will need it. Going by the waters you described you run it.

 

[openseat]

I've considered it for my boat. Only decided against it because I don't want the console taking up that floor space.

Definitely pad the edges of your console where your feet and legs go. Since steering sticks are designed to be more to your side than in front of you, you kinda need one foot under the console to achieve a similar reach.
Imagine the result if that console had been in front of you the time you were ejected.

A grab bar on the console will allow you to avoid the mistake of trying to use either the steering stick or the throttle to brace with. Instead of putting the grab bar across the top of the console like a lot of wheeled set ups use, I would probably try a smaller one next to the throttle first.

Good luck with the project. That hull looks sweet.

 

[redrum]

I like stick steering also but if you fish shallow rocky water standing up front and center has its advantages. I'd suggest installing a bar stool height seat and just treat it like a stick steer.

Also, I have a 2002 Merc 60/40 on an 1860 SeaArk and its fine.